Brightest under 100 grams (3.5 oz) including battery?

[liketotallyrandom]

What is the brightest, non-custom light under 100 grams (3.5 oz) INCLUDING BATTERY? Bonus if it's floody and/or a neutral tint.

 

[Marduke]

What is the brightest, non-custom light under 100 grams (3.5 oz) INCLUDING BATTERY? Bonus if it's floody and/or a neutral tint.

Quark 123^2 XP-G R5 + 17670 should manage that.

240lm OTF

 

[liketotallyrandom]

Interesting. I missed that one somehow. It's lighter than I thought. The Quarks aren't really floody enough, though. They seem floody enough for many tasks, but I need a mid-range beam (10-75 feet in range) halfway between a Zebralight 501w and a JetBeam Jet-I Pro Q3 5A. All these will be on my caving helmet.... modeled very loosely on Tobias Bossert's ideas presented in the thread here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=185217

I'm really looking for a VERY floody neutral tint, because those cooler tints often get absorbed in the redish mud of Alabama caves, eh. What I seem to need is a neutral-ish MC-E in an undersized host good for only running about two minutes at a time due to thermal issues (I hardly ever need to run it longer than two minutes before cooling back down), but those seem to be custom pieces.

 

[uplite]

I'm really looking for a VERY floody neutral tint, because those cooler tints often get absorbed in the redish mud of Alabama caves, eh. What I seem to need is a neutral-ish MC-E in an undersized host good for only running about two minutes at a time due to thermal issues...

Zebralight H60w is neutral tint, 100g with battery & headband (77g w/o headband), and runs for 10 minutes on max before dropping back to high.

Max 160 lumens with 80 degrees flood. Max 190 lumens if you get the "typical" cool tint instead.

The improved contrast of a neutral-white LED is far more important, in the real world, imo, than the higher lumens of a cool-white LED. yomv.

-Jeff

 

[balou]

Interesting. I missed that one somehow. It's lighter than I thought. The Quarks aren't really floody enough, though. They seem floody enough for many tasks, but I need a mid-range beam (10-75 feet in range) halfway between a Zebralight 501w and a JetBeam Jet-I Pro Q3 5A.

You could install a diffuser on it. And 'diffuser' could also be Scotch Magic tape - same effect as frosted glass. I dunno how easy it is to take the Quark head apart, but then you could install it on the back of the lens

 

[Marduke]

Keep In mind the XP-G is much floodier than the XP-E versions.

However, an existing headlamp (possibly modded) would likely be better in the long run. Side mounted caving lights get hung up on everything...

 

[KAP]

Quark 123^2 XP-G R5 + 17670 should manage that.

240lm OTF

91g with clip installed :thumbsup:

 

[liketotallyrandom]

Uplite: As I mentioned, I'm already using a Zebralight. That's only good out to about 10 feet, though. I need another light for another set of ranges.

Balou: Scotch tape has proven horribly inefficient in my trials. Yes, it diffuses, but at a cost.

Marduke: True about the XP-G. Any idea when the neutral tints will get here? Side mounted lights, though, are sleek compared to carbide cap lamps with full-sized reflectors, which is what I'm used to using. Besides, my body is wider than my helmet, so if I can't get my helmet through something, there's really no point, eh. I just really dislike headlamps, unlike most cavers. Wires get hung up and are a waste of mass, as well as being an unnecessary point of failure (including entry and exit points vs. water). Most headlamps are years behind flashlights, and don't offer nearly the options in terms of beam pattern, battery selection, modes, etc. Also, having three separate complete systems eliminates single points of failure compared to a single headlamp with multiple modes. Also once I aim each of the three lights, there's no need to constantly pivot things up and down.

Nevertheless, thanks for the input. I was just wondering if I was missing a good factory-made solution, but it's starting to look like a custom built solution is called for here...

 

[Marduke]

When using scotch tape diffusers, don't use the matte finish, but specifically the "satin" finish. It diffuses the light with much fewer losses.

 

[brianch]

For an EDC i think this is a very nice light that is very bright for it's size:
iTP A1 EOS CR123a

 

[Pontiaker]

Get a Fenix LD01 or LOD and run rechargable 10440 batteries in it, Very small package with a ton of light, super bright and very small and light.

 

[liketotallyrandom]

When using scotch tape diffusers, don't use the matte finish, but specifically the "satin" finish. It diffuses the light with much fewer losses.

Thanks. Did not know that.

 

[defloyd77]

The 4Sevens Preon 2AAA is floody, 160 lumens Out-the-front, weighs 0.88 ounces without batteries, e2 lithiums weigh 0.269 ounces each adding up to 1.418 ounces, you could carry an additional 6 e2 lithiums and still be under 3.5 ounces.

 

[LED_Thrift]

Nevertheless, thanks for the input. I was just wondering if I was missing a good factory-made solution, but it's starting to look like a custom built solution is called for here...

I was thinking "Sounds like a job for Milkyspit" a highly-respected CPF modder. He has a few small single cell [18650 I believe] MCE [or P7] lights that put out a ton of lights. He may be able to build the perfect light for you.

Peak LED Solutions may also be able to make something just right for you.

 

[toughCookie]

I'm new to the flashlight scene, I bought a cheap budget flashlight (Ultrafire A10) I think this is very bright, seems to fit your specs:candle:

 

[liketotallyrandom]

Thanks for the input everybody.

Miraculously, I found Cano's MG L-Mini II Warm MC-E up for sale at the Marketplace. Talk about synchronicity! Admittedly, it's ever so slightly above 100 grams, but it was actually sort of the archetype that set me on my quest to begin with.