C-Mag Tailcap Prototype

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350xfire

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So one of the weak links in the mag lite tail cap when used for diving is the thickness. I made this prototype out of Delrin to allow for full thread contact of the Agro glands. It uses a larger o-ring for better sealing. With this baby you should never have to worry about the threads stripping out...

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:eek: :thinking:

Interesting invention. How do you prevent the water from breaking the lens and flooding the light source?
 
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I never saw the need to replace the tail cap to get the gland to fully thread in. Instead I just used a nut on the inside of the cap. You can then pot it for extra measure.

BUT you could take this one step further and set it up as a switch much like a greenforce set up. This could then lead to a sealed cannister setup and charging via the tail cap.

PS please use black Delrin next time!!!!!
 
nice work. I'm interested if you plan making more. (although my first mod will be a mag D)

As Packhorse said, the greenforce setup is interesting as well. I can show you a few detailed pictures of the connection if you want. (from a HID head that I took apart)


I supose this works fine for just making sure it is closed. I'm not sure if this is a good idea to open and close it often. Maybe the thread will suffer too much from that.
 
about the o-ring... :thinking:
with the normal tailcap, the o-ring is on the inside, now it is on top of the battery tube. Wouldn't this make it more easily to start leaking of you move it around under water?

when the o-ring goes inside, it would not only seal, but also generate some locking forces so it would unscrew less likely.
It seems to me that these 'locking forces' are smaller if you just screw down the delrin until the o-ring is compressed to some level. I think any movement of the delrin would result in unscrewing slightly due to the forces of the compressed o-ring. this doesn't happen in the same way when the o-ring is inside the tube since the forces are in another direction.

any other ideas on this?
 
Keyword... "Prototype".... Yes, I will use black, it's just better for showing in white!!! Plus I did not have black delrin. Waiting for it to get here.

Pack: The main goal is reliability without having to glue a bunch of stuff together and use JB weld in every corner.

The O-ring in there is bigger than what I need but seals well. I need to get a smaller oring to go inside. That bigger oring does partially penetrate the rear of the housing. Once tight, it's not going anywhere!
 
BUT you could take this one step further and set it up as a switch much like a greenforce set up. This could then lead to a sealed cannister setup and charging via the tail cap.

Yes interesting! I'm going to have to give that some thought!
 
nice work. I'm interested if you plan making more. (although my first mod will be a mag D)

As Packhorse said, the greenforce setup is interesting as well. I can show you a few detailed pictures of the connection if you want. (from a HID head that I took apart)


I supose this works fine for just making sure it is closed. I'm not sure if this is a good idea to open and close it often. Maybe the thread will suffer too much from that.

Yes, planning on making more and yes, the Mag D is next. I am waiting for some black delrin so these guys will stop bashing me!!! lol

This can also be made out of aluminum and anodized to make the threads hold better. This one was just my first attemp to see how it came out.

Yes, I would be interested in seeing the pics.

Thanks
 
I agree with Jspeybro about the O ring . It would be much better to have it in the original position.

Out of interest what is the thread pitch?
 
well i was going to post this in a few weeks when i had finished a couple more, but i think its what your all talking about.

ill take some pics when I'm back at home and post them up for you all, but for now here's my original paint design.

gfstyleendcap.jpg
note

the batt's are sprung loaded and held in by a cir-clip, which dosn't actually meet with the press fitted plate

hope this makes sense,

jon c
 
So basically, you reverse the battery and put the + connection on the tail cap? This way when you unscrew the tailcap the light turns off?
 
I think for a tail cap switch you may want to consider a triple O ring design. This will mean re machining of the body and thread though.
 
I think for a tail cap switch you may want to consider a triple O ring design. This will mean re machining of the body and thread though.


Pack, I agree with you 100%... That would be a major wear issue. May be the collar with reid switch would be the way to go.
 
So basically, you reverse the battery and put the + connection on the tail cap? This way when you unscrew the tailcap the light turns off?

pretty much yes


i only undo the cap for charging and for traveling, switching is a piezo in the origional switch hole.

so far i havent had any probs with this set up.

just a thought...
it might be possible to extend the cap slightly, and put a third o-ring to seal aaginst the batt tube section
 
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pretty much yes


i only undo the cap for charging and for traveling, switching is a piezo in the origional switch hole.

so far i havent had any probs with this set up.

just a thought...
it might be possible to extend the cap slightly, and put a third o-ring to seal aaginst the batt tube section


How did you mount the piezo and what circuit are you using? Can you post some pics?
 
work permitting, ill be sticking the whole build up this week, with all the details.

basically i skimmed down the piezo switch diameter and glued it into the original switch hole.

i used a latching circuit from bill bowden site, with a few tweaks for higher currents

currently I'm modifying the circuit to make use of a FET rather then a transistor but haven't got it quite right yet.

there's some more details about the circuit in the battery forum think i titled it ''latching circuit help''

as long as all goes well this week ill put up all the details

jon c
 
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