Can i stick a M*G switch in a Snap-on light?

[Joshatdot]

I got a 2D Snap-On light from work for free, cause the switch was not working. I tried to disassemble the unit, but had problems getting the switch out. As a result it got smashed, its made of cheep plastic.

I measured the ID of the unit and it's about 34~34.3mm. I measured my M*G ID, and it is also about 34~34.3mm. There is a retaining clip grove about 20mm from edge.

 

[Jenova]

mate just give it a try see if it slides in and see if the holes like up
if not should be quite east to make your own switch in the tail cap (like mac's customs) might even add an extra battery in too

 

[Joshatdot]

mate just give it a try see if it slides in and see if the holes like up
if not should be quite east to make your own switch in the tail cap (like mac's customs) might even add an extra battery in too

Yeah I just figured that out afew mins after posting. I Googled M*GLITE disassembly, found some tuts/pics of how. I got worried when I loosened the switch with the 2mm(5/32) key, and it didn't freely slide out of the tube. I gently pushed it out. When I looked in the tube there was some corrosion from leaking battery acid

How do I smooth out the ruff spots left by the corrosion?

Anywho, it fit perfectly in the Snap-On tube. But the switch retaining assembly didn't have anything to press against, like on the M*G's hole. The Snap-On's hole for their rubber boot, was too big.

I would like to keep the OEM tailcap. Is there any other switch mechanisms that would work?

 

[Joshatdot]

If I could make some rounded shim to place over the assembly, with a hole for the switch...that might work.

 

[Jenova]

Yeah I just figured that out afew mins after posting. I Googled M*GLITE disassembly, found some tuts/pics of how. I got worried when I loosened the switch with the 2mm(5/32) key, and it didn't freely slide out of the tube. I gently pushed it out. When I looked in the tube there was some corrosion from leaking battery acid

How do I smooth out the ruff spots left by the corrosion?

Anywho, it fit perfectly in the Snap-On tube. But the switch retaining assembly didn't have anything to press against, like on the M*G's hole. The Snap-On's hole for their rubber boot, was too big.

I would like to keep the OEM tailcap. Is there any other switch mechanisms that would work?

you can still keep the stock tail cap just need some drilling and soldering etc