Canoe Light???

[InitialImage]

Hello All,

I need help with a light.

I have the Colorado River 100 (100 mile canoe race) coming up in about 9 weeks and need to make a new bow light for my canoe as I'll be paddling in the dark for some of the race. I will use a Mag head with either 3 or 4 leds in it. I have some Cree Q5's. I haven't made a light in a long time and am very rusty on the power end of it. Going through my old stuff I have an Nflex driver from 2004 that I would like to use. I'm tempted to buy one of George's newer ones that is more customized to biking applications, but I'd rather use what I already have.

I'll only need the power to last for one night. I figure I'll need light from about 9pm til morning at the worst, but I'm going to try and finish by 2am.

I plan to leave the light on constant and will use the driver feature to boost the brightness when needed.

What battery setup do you suggest? Voltage, type, etc.

Consider me a rookie with all this since I haven't made a light of any kind in about 4 years.

Thanks for your help and I'll see about pictures when it is completed.

 

[thehick]

I've only particpated in a couple of overnight adventure races so i'm no expert. i would suggest posting the question in more-adventure-race related forums.

What we did, and this was specified by the race organizers, was hang glow sticks front and back (yes, bow and stern). Our headlamps provided plenty of light. If you're going solo, a backup headlamp tested and ready would be wise. it's pretty bright on the water if there's a moon. You have a full moon for the race, so start praying for cloudless skies.

But if you do make a lamp, it'llneed to be waterproof. No small task.
good luck.

 

[qwertyydude]

In your case what I would do is use a direct drive setup with a dropping resistor. The reason being is that even if you did have it waterproof there's no guarantee that it won't leak on you. The beauty of direct drive is that it can work even if the electronics get wet, heck even fully submerged with water all over the inside it'll work. Batterywise I'd keep it simple with a 3 cell alkaline setup for ease of use and low cost. Maybe a c cell light or if you're going multi emitter a d cell setup. It's easy to make it multi level too just get a two position switch direct connection or a really low value resistor like .25 ohm will be your turbo mode, make sure it's heatsinked really well though, resistor like 5 ohm will be your low mode.