So I am totally new to this and want some advice. I am going to make an undercounter light setup and am going to use 4 Cree XR-E P4s in series and need to choose a driver. I can't find the specs on the emitters, so I have no idea of the wattage, voltage etc. I was thinking of the Xitanium 350mA or the MicroDrive9. Any suggestions? With the drivers you suggest, how many emitters can I run on it?
Choosing a driver
- Thread starter mitaccio
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Chrontius
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'm in the same boat - I'd like to run an under-cabinet LED array something like an under-watted Data Bank - but I want it to run efficiently on 120v household current.
Should I just use a power brick and regulator, or 120/3.7=32.5 Cree LEDs in series for a total forward voltage of just over 120v, and run a potentiometer?
Should I just use a power brick and regulator, or 120/3.7=32.5 Cree LEDs in series for a total forward voltage of just over 120v, and run a potentiometer?
Do you live in some EU country? If so, I can recommend two drivers:
http://www.dotlight.de/shop/product...er-for-1-and-3-Watt-HighPower-LEDs---12W.html
This is adjustable to 350mA or 700mA.
But if you willing to spend bit more money I really recommend this driver:
http://www.dotlight.de/shop/product...niversal-dimmable-driver---max--1-050-mA.html
It has very flexible current range(350, 700 or 1050 mA). And if you wan't to use certain voltage instead of current, there are three different voltages(10V/10W, 12V/12W, 24V/20W). It is also dimmable by additional 100kOhm potentiometer.
Both drivers are also usable with 110VAC mains but might be expensive to ship outside EU.
http://www.dotlight.de/shop/product...er-for-1-and-3-Watt-HighPower-LEDs---12W.html
This is adjustable to 350mA or 700mA.
But if you willing to spend bit more money I really recommend this driver:
http://www.dotlight.de/shop/product...niversal-dimmable-driver---max--1-050-mA.html
It has very flexible current range(350, 700 or 1050 mA). And if you wan't to use certain voltage instead of current, there are three different voltages(10V/10W, 12V/12W, 24V/20W). It is also dimmable by additional 100kOhm potentiometer.
Both drivers are also usable with 110VAC mains but might be expensive to ship outside EU.
Ive researched this a LOT, so here is what I recomnend.
Firstly use a CC driver. Removes so much hassle and calculation and headscratching.
Second decide what mA you want to run the LEDs at. I reccomend 350, since they run much cooler for not THAT much less light (output curve is not linear)
Thirdly decide how many LEDs. Then find a suitable driver. Lots of different naming conventions out there that can be confusing. SO lets say in your example, you run 4 Crees at 350mA (which equates to about 1W power rating for each Cree). So you need a minimum 4W CC driver. Or if you look at DX they would label it as 4X1W.
If you get a higher powered one (8W or so drivers are common) you need to check one thing, and thats the MINIMUM output voltage. Some Xitaniums for example have a MIN V of 16V so you have to be careful you dont connect 3 LEDs only or they will blow. One driver on DX has a minimum Vout of 40V, so u need at least 10 LEDs connected to begin with.
Rule of thumb, if its a proper CC driver, you should be able to safely connect any number of LEDs whose combined voltage in series falls in the Vmin Vmax range of the driver.
Is this clear enough for you? If not ask away.
I learnt all this looking at datasheets and asking here, so look at some Xitanium datasheets, and you will soon start getting your head around it. Good luck!
Firstly use a CC driver. Removes so much hassle and calculation and headscratching.
Second decide what mA you want to run the LEDs at. I reccomend 350, since they run much cooler for not THAT much less light (output curve is not linear)
Thirdly decide how many LEDs. Then find a suitable driver. Lots of different naming conventions out there that can be confusing. SO lets say in your example, you run 4 Crees at 350mA (which equates to about 1W power rating for each Cree). So you need a minimum 4W CC driver. Or if you look at DX they would label it as 4X1W.
If you get a higher powered one (8W or so drivers are common) you need to check one thing, and thats the MINIMUM output voltage. Some Xitaniums for example have a MIN V of 16V so you have to be careful you dont connect 3 LEDs only or they will blow. One driver on DX has a minimum Vout of 40V, so u need at least 10 LEDs connected to begin with.
Rule of thumb, if its a proper CC driver, you should be able to safely connect any number of LEDs whose combined voltage in series falls in the Vmin Vmax range of the driver.
Is this clear enough for you? If not ask away.
I learnt all this looking at datasheets and asking here, so look at some Xitanium datasheets, and you will soon start getting your head around it. Good luck!
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Those Lumotech drivers I mentioned earlier can drive 1-x leds so they don't have that minimum led amount restrictions.
SafetyBob
Enlightened
Mitaccio, I don't know how far you have come on this project, but been there done that. Tried the power brick, real Zane dimmer and it finally killed my Seoul P4's I had in my undercounter 4 led setup.
Switched to non-dimmable Microdrive 9 (from LED Supply (normally the cheapest place you can get Microdrives and Xitanium from)) and 4 new Seoul P4's running at I think 700mA and it is very, very bright under my kitchen desk now. No problem reading or finding anything. Once I get motivated I will reduce power to the 350mA level. I don't think I will loose that much usability, but will instead loose the ball park lighting effect I have now!!
I concur that the constant current drivers available now are really nice, easy, and reliable to use.
Hurry up and get your project done. I want to see what you have done for your undercounter setup. I need ideas.........
One last thing. You can easily study up on the drivers and their usages by using the data sheets that are linked at the LED Supply website.
Bob E.
Switched to non-dimmable Microdrive 9 (from LED Supply (normally the cheapest place you can get Microdrives and Xitanium from)) and 4 new Seoul P4's running at I think 700mA and it is very, very bright under my kitchen desk now. No problem reading or finding anything. Once I get motivated I will reduce power to the 350mA level. I don't think I will loose that much usability, but will instead loose the ball park lighting effect I have now!!
I concur that the constant current drivers available now are really nice, easy, and reliable to use.
Hurry up and get your project done. I want to see what you have done for your undercounter setup. I need ideas.........
One last thing. You can easily study up on the drivers and their usages by using the data sheets that are linked at the LED Supply website.
Bob E.
