You can become a Supporting Member.
winny said:Sound like everyone thinks like me. Very good!
I wasn't really clear in my last post. The two stage setting was just an example. The PIR will ship with three user-settable levels. If you only want one or two, you simply set the ones you don't want to 0.0 V and they will be ignored when you try to change them.
For those of you who ordered with loose LEDs, could you consider to have the LEDs on (one or two) and get two extra loose? That would save me some time and you might get your regulator one day sooner. You will need to solder cables to the regulator anyway if you wanted to run with loose LEDs so you can just as well desolder the on-board LEDs as well, I thought.
winny said:For those of you who ordered with loose LEDs, could you consider to have the LEDs on (one or two) and get two extra loose? That would save me some time and you might get your regulator one day sooner. You will need to solder cables to the regulator anyway if you wanted to run with loose LEDs so you can just as well desolder the on-board LEDs as well, I thought.
andrewwynn said:we can always tack on the tiny wires in parallel to the on-board LED for a remote-mount.. it actually makes more sense to just have it on the board since it's very nice to test it outside the light before putting it inside anyhow.
-awr
winny said:For those of you who ordered with loose LEDs, could you consider to have the LEDs on (one or two) and get two extra loose? That would save me some time and you might get your regulator one day sooner.
winny said:cnjl3,
It's not a problem by itself because it's not hot, just _hotter_ than the transistor. We are still only talking about 100 mW of power or so. It might become a problem if stable battery voltage does not solve this issue/problem and you use a very high powered lamp that heat up everything. It won't break even if it is 80 degrees Celsius but it will seriouslyA shorten its lifespan.