CMG Ultra-G vs. Ultra

[UnknownVT]

single sample comparison

Cosmetic differences:

Ultra-G is much darker green almost black on first glance. My just received Ultra is much paler green. Photo has been adjusted to show colors to as close to actual life color as possible.

Note the home-made wrist loop/strap on the Ultra-G - which also functions as a locator/extractor when carrying the light in my pocket

Beam differences -
photos are hard -

I post 2 shots - the only difference is that beam-shot 1 is taken with wide angle at 35mm equiv. and cropped to get image - Beam-shot 2 at about 60mm equiv and shot cropped much less both with lights about 7" away from standard letter sized white paper. Camera is Canon Digital ELPH S100 - set with daylight white balance set about 23" away from beam spots.

The difference I believe is the auto exposure - with beam-shot 1 there was a lot more in the original frame - darkness - so the camera gave more exposure - hence the larger hot spots when the photo is cropped to include only the beams. Whereas beam-shot 2 is using the zoom to limit the framing - so relatively speaking there is a lot more light beam in the frame - so the camera exposes the photo less therefore accentuating the differences in the central spots.

Beam-shot 1

Beam-shot 2

Neither shot shows all that the eye can see.

The Ultra is noticably bluer with slight violet over-tones.

The Ultra-G has the infamous "brown ring" separating the central blue-white spot and another equally bright blue-white ring (this is best seen with the light illuminating white surface about a yard away). I don't think it's really brown - just lower intensity with less blue content. But overall the Ultra-G is a better white and more even when in use. The plain Ultra seems to have more colors in its beam which does show in the beamshots.

The plain Ultra was stiffer to turn on/off. But I solved that easily by using some petroleum jelly very sparingly (wiping off any excess and being careful NOT to get any on the O-ring - petroleum jelly rots rubber) and working the threads using pushing and pulling pressure - then finally wiping off the threads with tissue so that only a minimal amount of lube is in the threads only.

I just got the Ultra (non-G) for $15.99 +$4 shipping from Texas Tactical Supply - who appear to be currently out of stock (and the site seems down again)

The Ultra-G was at the cpf special price of $19 +$6 shipping from County Comm.

So are the differences between the Ultra-G and the plain Ultra enough to justify the $5 extra for the "G" and the lack of the accessories of lanyard and pocket clip which I do not carry and ulikely to use? - probably not.

But do I feel hard done by?
ABSOLUTELY NOT

- would I buy another Ultra-G if I lost mine?
- at the cpf special price - YES
- at the $24 price - NO.

 

[txwest]

Vincent,
Get you some K-Y Jelly instead of petroleum jelly. It looks & acts the same, but is not petroleum based. TX

 

[Bushman]

The only problem with k/y is that it is waterbased and it evaporates leaving only crusties... It is a good lubericant only when it can be kept moist.

 

[Inverse Square]

How about Plumber's silicone grease?

 

[spud]

I got an ultra for christmas, and have read two books and a magazine by it on the same alkaline. Waiting for 4 lihium aa's to arrive, by post. I've only got one LED , tried to get an arc aaa in the U.K. but failed. (no suppliers)
Feckinng good light.

 

[BackStage]

Originally posted by Empath:
I think the earlier Ultras were of the same run as the 'G', which included the type III anodizing. It looks like the newer ones are closer to the stated specs, and isn't type III.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I agree because my Ultra has the same finish as the "G" in the picture. It did before I stripped it at least.

 

[Empath]

I think the earlier Ultras were of the same run as the 'G', which included the type III anodizing. It looks like the newer ones are closer to the stated specs, and isn't type III.

 

[UnknownVT]

thread lubricant

I was taught to use petroleum jelly (vaseline) on car battery terminals to prevent corrosion - but importantly it maintains good electrical conduction

Other types of lubricants may inhibit electrical conduction - and since the CMG Ultra uses its threads to make electrical contact - the use of other lubricants might not be such a good idea.

The main downside to petroleum jelly is that it can rot rubber - however hopefully the water resistant O-ring used in most flashlight are more likely to be of a more modern material like neoprene - but better to be safe than sorry - use the stuff very sparingly, wipe off any excess, once the threads work smoothly wipe off more to only leave a mere trace - and don't get any on the O-ring.....

Another good thing is the stuff doesn't run.....

As for that other stuff - Kentucky Jelly....

 

[txwest]

Viton is what they normally use to make o-rings exposed to petroleum products. TX

 

[jmm]

Petroleum jelly "rots" NATURAL rubber (which is rarely encountered in consumer products). The most common O-Ring material likely to be found in flashlights is Buna-N (a.k.a Nitrile), which is compatible with typical petroleum and silicon based lubricants.

"Petroleum jelly" (including Vaseline brand) is basically a mixture of mineral oil and paraffin. It's periodic use is recommended by at least one *ajor flashlight manufacturer, without any warning about not getting it on O-Rings.

As a matter of fact, most O-Ring design and application guides warn against subjecting unlubricated rings to the type of twisting action that is encountered when assembling a flashlight.

Viton and neoprene O-Rings are both significantly more expensive than Buna-N, and have other characteristics which make them unlikely choices for use by mainstream flashlight manufacturers.

John

 

[r2]

I remember once Peter G. mentioned that the O-ring used in the Arc AAA is safe with petroleum jelly as well as most other lubricants. Not sure about the Ultra.

- Russ

 

[UnknownVT]

Originally posted by jmm:
The most common O-Ring material likely to be found in flashlights is Buna-N (a.k.a Nitrile), which is compatible with typical petroleum and silicon based lubricants.
<snip>
As a matter of fact, most O-Ring design and application guides warn against subjecting unlubricated rings to the type of twisting action that is encountered when assembling a flashlight.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">-
Many thanks for that informative post.

What is the lubricant that's recommended for threads that make electrical contact?

Is it any different for the typical O-ring in flashlights?

Thank you.

 

[Pierce the Night]

Spud,

Another CPF member posted that Toolshop in Germany do the Arc AAA and don't charge for postage. (Sorry: can't remember who, so apologize for not giving him a personal namecheck.)

Pierce.

 

[jmm]

UnknownVT - SureFire specifies a couple of lubricants made by Nye, and who's to argue with their expertise. There was a discussion of what to use where over here at Strategos .

I think "tkl" is trying to put together a group buy for the appropriate Nye lubes in the Buy-Sell-Trade listings here on CPF. Check there for the latest on his effort to help avoid everyone having to buy more of the stuff than any one person could use in 100 years, because of minimun order quantities.

John

 

[LED_ASAP]

Actually just the plain pencil core (graphite) will do the trick---trace a sharpened pencil throuth the threads a few times to leave some graphite, then re-assemble. The good thing for graphite is that it is also electrically conductive and doesn't attract dust as the other lubricants do.

 

[UnknownVT]

Originally posted by LED mods As Small As Possible:
Actually just the plain pencil core (graphite) will do the trick---
<snip>
The good thing for graphite is that it is also electrically conductive and doesn't attract dust as the other lubricants do.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">--
Many thanks for that confirmation ...

- but will pencil graphite also work for lubricating the O-rings?

If not, what else can be recommended?

Thanks,

 

[BackStage]

I use castrol syntec 5w 50 to lube the O rings. I also use it as a gun lube. One quart will last a lifetime. It hasn't destroyed anything rubber or plastic and it stays put a looooong time.

 

[UnknownVT]

Originally posted by BackStage:
I use castrol syntec 5w 50 to lube the O rings.
<snip>
It hasn't destroyed anything rubber or plastic and it stays put a looooong time.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">---
Is Castrol Syntec a true pure synthetic oil?
or is it one of the hybrids that actually contains petroleum based oils?

Thanks,

 

[radellaf]

I like Archer Lube Gel from Radio Shack for flashlight, and just about all other electronics, lubrication.

Ingredient list:
http://support.radioshack.com/support_supplies/doc2/2946.htm

 

[BuddTX]

Originally posted by UnknownVT:
Is Castrol Syntec a true pure synthetic oil?
or is it one of the hybrids that actually contains petroleum based oils?

Thanks,[/QB]

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Them's fightin' words!

I believe that Castrol has a lawsuit out against Mobil 1 over that very question!

I use nothing but Mobil 1!