Conversion of Ultrafire MCU-C7s to Dive light

[hanachan]

Hi, all
Ultrafire MCU-C7s Cree Q5-WC 3-Mode 230-Lumen is a cheap (13USD), small, bright and then suitable for EDC.

I conveted this to Dive light.

its very tiny.

its size

left to right: mod MTE P7, mod R2 C6case, this light and 18650

beam shots on land

left to right: same as above. MCU:high mode

leak test

upper: this light, lower: R2-C6casing

run time is about 30min at HIGH mode.

changing mode is easy after conversion.
having mode memory, i can use it as 1 mode light.

there is a little difficulty to exchange the tail clicky switch to a toggle one because of no PCB of switch. Ill report about this point later.

I like this light very much. i would like to dive together with this light soon.

Thank you.

 

[hanachan]

how to swap a clicky tail switch for a toggle one

Hi, id like to show the method of switch replacement.

disassembled the original clicky switch

i didnt know how to disassemble the switch module.

so i broke the white plastic ring by mini drill. A small tactile switch was simply fitted in the pipe and covered with the metal circular plate, neither glue nor thread.

all the parts disassembled

enlargeｄ the hole with a file for a toggle switch passing it.

soldered a spring electrode and a copper plate on terminals of the toggle switch.

put it into the switch pill(?).

stop the toggle switch with a circular aluminum plate as shown below.

sealed the switch and filled the silicone sealant around it.

Thats all.

PS:
glued a 2mm thick round acrylic plate on the glass lens with silicone sealant.

you can see a little more pics here (Flickr).
Thank you.

 

[bobmirko]

Did you tested it at depth?

 

[gav6280]

Very home made!

Is there anyone producing anything like this in size that is factory dive rated?

 

[hanachan]

Did you tested it at depth?

No. or yes at 15cm water depth.

Is there anyone producing anything like this in size that is factory dive rated?

i dont know. anyway the smallness has some advantage.
i made the light holder and attached the light to my dive computer (Mares tutor).

 

[gcbryan]

Have you had to do anything to increase the water proof ability of the lens?

I've seen your modifications to the tail cap section of your dive lights. What about the lens? Have you had to replace any o-rings or add silicone behind the lens?

Thanks.

 

[hanachan]

Have you had to do anything to increase the water proof ability of the lens?

I've seen your modifications to the tail cap section of your dive lights. What about the lens? Have you had to replace any o-rings or add silicone behind the lens?

Thanks.

#C2 MCE & MTE P7 lights:
i added one more glass lens and a acrylic round plate (most outside).
please see the article about waterproof C2 MCE in my HP.

#R2 C6 case & this light:
i could not get an adequate size glass lens for these lights. so i glued only one acrylic round plate in front of the lens by filling silicone sealant in the space between acrylic round plate and light head canister.

in addition i glued the aluminum plate over the filled silicone sealant for its protection.

The diameter of these lights is small so i think no additional glass lens is not issue.

 

[gcbryan]

Thanks.

In looking at some of these smaller flashlights (I have a Romisen RC-K4) they are made so well it almost looks like you could use them right out of the box as a dive light at moderate depths except for the clicky tail switch.

Have you ever tried just sealing the tail switch (convert to twisty) and doing nothing else to see if they can be used that way?

 

[hanachan]

Have you ever tried just sealing the tail switch (convert to twisty) and doing nothing else to see if they can be used that way?

though i dont understand your question correctly,
i did simply overlapping sealing on Romisen RC-G2.
see here (my HP).