could use a little help on 2C Mag build.

[slappomatt]

So I have been collecting parts, and originally intended to build a ROP powered by 2 18650 in a 2c mag. I have the KD SMO alum reflector and glass lens. and I have a pair of 18650 "true 2400"s.

I thought I could mod the stock tailcap to work but after getting the protected 18650 I see that wont work. I'm not a fan of the style that FM sells so what are my other options? Does anyone make a body spacer that would allow me to use my stock tailcap or does anyone make a longer stock looking tail? I want to keep the appearance stock as possible.

I also saw this thread
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=250337
and thought about doing a 3 123 mag and I already have the batteries and went and got the bulbs listed from RS but the PVC I bought doesnt fit in my Mag.

So I guess I need a little guidance with this build. I really want to keep it rechargable. I do have some RC123's coming....

 

[bigchelis]

I use my 2C Mags the same way with the stock tail cap and no spring at all.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=247800

Some cells are shorter and will require a .50 cent magnet sold at lighthound.com. Otherwise, if you had 2 AW 2600mAh cells no magnet is needed at the rear.

I use laptop recycled cells for the ROP L bulbs only and IMR 18650 for the High bulbs and no magnets were needed at all.

 

[gswitter]

A couple suggestions...

You might be able to use your protected cells with the stock tailcap if you slide the switch forward a mm or two. Use an allen wrench to loosen the ground screw, slide the switch up as desired and re-tighten. I've had to do this for a few builds.

If you absolutely can't fit the cells in the stock body, and FM tail isn't an option/preference, here are a couple spacing options:

• MagRingC (looks like they might be sold out, unfortunately)
• AW "C" Li-ion spacer

Good luck.

 

[slappomatt]

well I put the batteries in and held the tail cap up to see and the batteries alone are about 1/4" past the back end of the tailcap so there is no way to make it work with the stock tailcap all the way in. unless I can move the switch alot!

That magring C is EXATLY what I want only in black. Its not to expensive maybe Ill just get it and have it anodized.

ETA http://www.lighthound.com/AW-V2-Mag-C-Incan-Driver-Soft-Start-amp-Multi-Brightness_p_2920.html

one of those would give me a little more battery space and alow me to soft start a big bulb. anyone have experience with those drivers?

 

[bigchelis]

well I put the batteries in and held the tail cap up to see and the batteries alone are about 1/4" past the back end of the tailcap so there is no way to make it work with the stock tailcap all the way in. unless I can move the switch alot!

That magring C is EXATLY what I want only in black. Its not to expensive maybe Ill just get it and have it anodized.

ETA http://www.lighthound.com/AW-V2-Mag-C-Incan-Driver-Soft-Start-amp-Multi-Brightness_p_2920.html

one of those would give me a little more battery space and alow me to soft start a big bulb. anyone have experience with those drivers?

What type of Mag do you have? If it is an older numerical serial number it will require a magnet or ring to add some lengh.

I had a "C" numbered 2C Mag and it worked perfectly with the folllowing cells:

• 2 AW 2600mAh cell
• 2 IMR 18650 cells
• 2 computer recycled 18650 cells

It did not work with the following unless a magnet was used.

• Trustfire protected 18650
• AW 17670 cells

That ring looks like it is a good and a usefull item to add.

 

[slappomatt]

yeah I have a new 2C mag and I also have the trustfire protected cells I do have some of those small magnets but I need less battery length not more. I DO have some really old 18650 from an old laptop pack but they are unprotected. I could use them for now If I'm careful. Its mostly to play around with as I have some nice LED lights for everyday use.

 

[kramer5150]

A couple suggestions...

You might be able to use your protected cells with the stock tailcap if you slide the switch forward a mm or two. Use an allen wrench to loosen the ground screw, slide the switch up as desired and re-tighten. I've had to do this for a few builds.

Where is this screw?... I don't see any screws in my 2C.

i have the opposite problem of the OP, and need to slide my switch back a little.
thanks:thumbsup:

 

[jabe1]

Where is this screw?... I don't see any screws in my 2C.

i have the opposite problem of the OP, and need to slide my switch back a little.
thanks:thumbsup:

Remove the switch cover and insert the allen key through the hole in the switch.

 

[slappomatt]

yeah you cant see it but its there.

I played around with my unprotected cells and cut the PVC down a bit and split it to make it fit OD wise. got it all together and its pretty bright. Its got a brighter hotspot than my Quark Turbo which had been my brightest light.

The beam is pretty nasty, Makes me wish I had gone with the OP reflector from KD. I'm using the RPK12 (I think that's the one) from Radio Shack and its decent. Already Flashed a few various bulbs playing around. The 4D mag bulb I had was REALLY bright for about 5 seconds.

 

[Mjolnir]

A 2D maglite really works better for 65mm cells. Kaidomain does have some lithium ion 25500 cells, but they are unprotected. I would only suggest using cells that are approximately C cell length in a C maglite (like AW's IMr c cells). For 18650s and 26650s, it is a lot easier to just use a 2D maglite.
Are you using the stock maglite reflector, or the smooth reflector from KD?
Does anyone here have the smooth reflector from KD with the 15 mm opening? How is the beam quality with it?

 

[slappomatt]

I'm using a glass lens and the KD reflector. the beam isn't much different from the stock plastic reflector.

 

[gswitter]

i have the opposite problem of the OP, and need to slide my switch back a little.

I've had to do that, too. You don't have much range in either direction (or re-installing the switch cover gets tricky), but sometimes that mm or two is just enough.

 

[gswitter]

ETA http://www.lighthound.com/AW-V2-Mag-C-Incan-Driver-Soft-Start-amp-Multi-Brightness_p_2920.html

one of those would give me a little more battery space and alow me to soft start a big bulb. anyone have experience with those drivers?

I use that soft start switch in my 2C (1111) and 3C (1185) builds. It is indeed a couple mm shorter than the stock switch, and, again, you can adjust it a couple mm in either direction for more or less battery space.

It works great as a soft start and a three level switch. The only downside is a slight battery drain when "off", so you need to back off the tailcap (or something similar) to cut the power if the light is going to sit for an extended period. And while the UI is simple, you can't just leave it for *anyone* to use, because most people won't be able to figure out how to turn it off. This last point is minor, but one of my UI pet peeves.

 

[Inliner]

MirageMan can bore out your tailcap to allow the spring to sit in the bottom of the tailcap. This let me use two AW "C" cells (26650) with no other modification. That's the cleanest solution IMO.

 

[gswitter]

That mod works fine for AW's protected "C" cells, but they're 26530's.

 

[Inliner]

That mod works fine for AW's protected "C" cells, but they're 26530's.

Ahh ok, thanks for the correction.

 

[fivemega]

That mod works fine for AW's protected "C" cells, but they're 26530's.

[size=+1]In fact 25530.[/size]

 

[gswitter]

[SIZE=+1]In fact 25530.[/SIZE]

Indeed.

It's the IMR C's that are 26mm.

 

[slappomatt]

well If I go that route, and it sounds like a good one. then I will still be left with 2 trustfire "true 2400" 18650's with no host. would they fit in a bored out 6p? I have kinda wanted to get one of those for a M30w but thats a different section of the forum...

 

[Sgt. LED]

They sure would.