CPF Custom Light Design

[LightTracker]

Modular design concept

This shows contact with the battery module on the top face... not very practical, but hopefully a starting point for further discussion.

The light could mount on the edge, at the other end... or inline...? It could mount via cable as long as the connectors are properly paired in any case, it would work.

Has anyone ever wished connectors were not male and female, but universal?

Just thinking out loud.... Comment if you like.

Cheers!

 

[Gunner12]

I think a universal connector might be a bit hard, but can be done.

A tube might be better since many people have access to tubing. There are hexongontal washers and stuff that can be used as anti roll devices.

For this light, I think a good place to start is with metal tubing of the right size.

 

[LightTracker]

I think a universal connector might be a bit hard, but can be done.

A tube might be better since many people have access to tubing. There are [hexagonal] washers and stuff that can be used as anti roll devices.....For this light, I think a good place to start is with metal tubing of the right size.

I was thinking of something like a hot-shoe (think of a flash mount on a camera), i.e. could the mount provide electrical contact too? You're right though, it could be hard to do....

9 volt batteries have something interesting going too, bit its not strong enough. Of course the connection could be a cable (coiled cable?) and let the mount be a separate issue.

Are you talking about the light or the battery with respect to tubing?

Cheers!

 

[Gunner12]

The body and head of the light should be made of tubing because that is easier and cheaper to find then a machining shop to machine an oblong body.

I was thinking something like a dual latch(might be the wrong term) system. Kinda like the electrical connectors for computers, RC cars and such. Male and female plug are on the same plug. That probably didn't make sense.

 

[Alan B]

I think a universal connector might be a bit hard, but can be done.

A tube might be better since many people have access to tubing. There are hexongontal washers and stuff that can be used as anti roll devices.

For this light, I think a good place to start is with metal tubing of the right size.

Anderson Powerpoles are polarized but universal in the sense that any pair will mate if configured correctly. This allows battery, power supply, load, charger to all interconnect any which way while maintaining polarity.

 

[LightTracker]

Anderson Powerpoles are polarized but universal in the sense that any pair will mate if configured correctly. This allows battery, power supply, load, charger to all interconnect any which way while maintaining polarity.

Thanks Gunner12 for your comments, and yes it makes sense... Thanks Alan, I found a decent cutaway image of the connector you mentioned (Looks like they offer lots of choices.)

What does anyone think? Remember, this DIY project needs to be easy. Do you need special tools to work with this? Does it need to be sealed?

Cheers!

 

[LightTracker]

Question 1:

Should the light be submersible? That would impact how its built and it would answer my question above. Terminals would need to be sealed (housing and battery too).

Question 2:
Is anyone still interested in pursuing this (mainly for forum participants)?

Its moving rather slow which is okay, I had to read the first paragraph of the topic lead-in to refresh my memory as to what its about:

create a design based on a compendium of knowledge of CPF members... [and] hope people get excited about it... [to] freely express ideas, however "out there" they may seem.

"Out there" means it doesn't have to be a flashlight, headlamp, bike light or dive light.

I checked further on castings, and I have the necessary skill/resources to make a pattern, and then I would provide ordering information to the Amish community that does the work.

I don't want to rule out using a casting as it would open the door wider to design ideas. I hope people have more to say about this topic, provide input.

Anyone have any more comments?

Cheers!

 

[LightTracker]

There's a lot of neat stuff available to gather in for parts to build from, and there seems to be more all the time. Cutter has a 6 LED (1500 lumen) product (I held one in my hands), and there are heat-sinks, switches, drivers, optics, cables, etc., everything you may need. Custom order to color temperature exists too.

Bike light designs-galore are out there... Bikers attract a lot, I think next to flashlight enthusiasts, drive most of the design concepts.... The big drawback I think is the price, anywhere from 150.00 to 1500.00, at about 1.00 per lumen, seems a lot compared to old technology. This begs an online community project, right?

Maybe a prototype could be done and then mailed around to members who are trusted for their scrutiny and judgment, make changes, maybe do another iteration or two and then do the parts list, guide, etc.

Any comments?

Cheers!

 

[LightTracker]

What does anyone think of Troutie's concept (shown below)?

This is a 1000 lm light, he has a 3000 lm light called Insane MCE. See other products.

Unfortunately, CNC machining is required for this type of housing.... so it would probably not lend to a do-it-yourself project. However, maybe a similar housing could be cast? I still need to check on that service of the Amish. I know they will cast aluminum. I just don't know what the price is yet. I need to be introduced to those folks.

I'll keep you posted.

03/11/09 Correction: I received email this morning from Trout U.K. He told me there's a housing-only option for the above light ($69.00 +7.00 shipping), and a kit is available through Cutter Elctronics for about 80.00. So its not correct to say that this wouldn't lend to a DIY project. I also noticed that Trout is a CPF member.

In light of this new information, would anyone be interested working with Trout for a CNC-machined housing? Has anyone tested the lights or have feedback? I saw on his site that he's testing max. flux at the junction which would be important for a bright LED light. Any comments?

Cheers!

 

[LightTracker]

....on the other hand (I'm at risk of being the only one posting, again) a CNC-machined housing could work very well. Its just as reproducible as a casting. If the cost is reasonable enough it could satisfy the wish list.

A supplier would be needed though. And I do wonder if there exist very many folks in this forum who are doing this sort of thing strictly for the fun, or if its more of a business venture to them. In my experience, those two mind sets don't mix very well.

So I wonder if anyone still wishes to do this besides me. If not, there would not be much lost nor gained in trying it, right? If there is anyone who has a CNC mill and could see themselves turning out perhaps several dozen housings for a little more than cost, would you let me know?

If I don't hear from anyone, I'll assume interest has dried up

Take care, and Cheers!
LightTrackerDan

 

[Wits' End]

I have an interest in this project. I think getting into a housing that has to be special ordered would increase the cost. I like the idea of using off-the-shelf plumbing/electrical components for the housing. Then maybe getting an etailer listing, then links to the components. The bike light tutorial is quite interesting. Off the shelf components to make a workable light. Personally, I'd like to see this idea work with no custom parts.

 

[dom]

Hi Dan
I'm a CNC mill machinist and recently CAD (Inventor) designer - also made bike light housings.

They quickly become a chore when doing in your own time,especially if there are a lot of setups per unit.

I had many late nights and long weekends.

Best thing to do is get a simple housing design (round shape that can be mainly done on CNC lathe will always be cheaper than other shaped that needs a mill).

If you can get enough interest once you have a design -then get a quote from a few workshops for eg. 50 off pieces,then get people to prepay to cover machining costs.

If the design/price is interesting enough for just say,25 people to sign up for ,you'd have no trouble offloading the rest.

I can look at any design made and tell how easy(cheaper) it would be to make and provide advice as to any changes needed to make it easier to machine,either for lathe or mill.

You could also ask Trouties CNC mate Deesta if he'd be up for the job - i think he made the housings you have a pic of.Very reasonable costing.

Cheers
Dom

 

[LightTracker]

Hey Dom and Wit's End, great comments, and very helpful. I"m glad I checked because I had thought most of the interest dried up.

I'd like to ask you guys something. So far the project has hedged toward a rather professional configuration -- but also to remain "doable" because some folks can't mod (reshape or fit) stuff the same as others can.

Maybe there's a brilliant idea to avoid custom parts and still achieve this. Do you think so?

I really like the idea of having a list of links to gather in what's needed from different suppliers -- the end result is a kit to make the LED light hinted at on the wish list.

I'd like to talk to the Mister Deesta please, can you give me his link?

Thanks for the input, its appreciate.

Cheers!

 

[dom]

Hi Dan
Heaps of keen DIY bike light guys over at MTBR
Here's one of Deestas posts.
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=501898

There are some great uses of plain box Al tube which make great homemade lights.
I'd have to find some links for them though.
Here is a nice one.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=229321

Cheers
Dom

 

[crestgel]

how about this for a housing

Use a niterider headlamp assembly? You can buy them direct.

http://www.niterider.com/store_headlamps.shtml

MiNewt.X2 Headlamp (Upgrade your 1st generation MiNewt to the new more powerful X2 headlamp, not compatible with Mini-USB battery)
$49.99
Sku# 4129

Evolution / TrailRat 2.0 / HeadTrip 3.0 / RoadRat Headlamp
Sku# 6474
$51.99

 

[LightTracker]

Thanks Dom, I was able to find Deesta's light project at MTBR after a little searching (for some reason the direct link didn't work for me). Thanks too, Crestgel as I checked out the Niterider headlamp link, to which I have some questions....

By the way, I had stupidly deleted the folder that contained a bunch of the images I was linking to above. I tried to restore it to the way it was, and came close enough. Sorry about that.

My questions deal with Max flux temperature. One of the reasons I found Troutie on the web is that I had been searching for information on testing max. flux at the junction. One item on the wish list is brightness (500-1500 lumen range). One of Trouties articles showed that he was actually measuring max. flux temp in trials.

I guess my concern is that I would not want a group effort, several people investing time/energy into something only to find out that we've created a light that kills LED lamps because they run too hot.

Does anyone have any comments about this? The last time I brought it up there was dead silence for a couple of weeks. I realize only the true geeks can address this one, but I hope one of you will chime in. Could a high output LED be achieved without seriously taking up the heatsink issue?

Cheers!

 

[crestgel]

Since my post i have found some issues with the niterider headlamps.

Evolution / TrailRat 2.0 / HeadTrip 3.0 / RoadRat Headlamp

Headlamp uses a MR11 halogen bulb. The bad thing is that it is made of resin and heat is sure to be a problem, a member pointed this out to me. You can modify the housing to expose a heat sink this I will leave to you guys to figure out. With the expose heat sink the housing will no longer be waterproof.


MiNewt.X2 Headlamp

This uses an aluminum housing. It is smaller then the HeadTrip housings. I have seen LED swaps using a P4 led but nothing larger.

 

[LightTracker]

Hey Crestgel! That's interesting. I think you're the first person mentioning water-tightness. Until now the wish list would result in a light that can to adapt to bike, headlamp or hand-held use. But why not diving? And while heat-sinking is a small issue under water, water-tightness isn't.... and that leads back to the housing, right?

I can see something like the Niterider configurations you pointed out, or the Lupine Betty... which is a 1500 Lumen light (someone pointed out the Lupine governs output with heat build-up).

I wonder if the housing shouldn't be designed for a "worst case". Underwater heat's not an issue. Biking its less of an issue. Used as a Headlamp or Hand-held its less of an issue if you're in cool or windy conditions, or holding the housing in your hand. I think the worst case would be in a hot dessert canyon with little or no air movement, mounted on a head-strap.

I'm making an assumption that including electronics to automatically reduce output (like the Lupine) would make it too sophisticated for a DIY project. Also, maybe its better to have a little bulkier light that always produces XXXX lumens, regardless of environement.

I added #13 to the Wish list - Watertightness, Its possible #6 (Electronics capable of adjusting for conditions) would be removed due to conflicting with other items on the list. Any thoughts or comments?
Thanks, and Cheers!

 

[LightTracker]

Hi! I haven't posted in a while, since no one seems to be interested in this lately.... Say, I saw this $30.00 900 Lumen light at DX. What's the catch?
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22567

In looking at the wish list and from looking back at comments regarding what's simplest, I wonder if #6 and #13 shouldn't be removed from the list and if #12 shouldn't be changed to simply read, "Separate light head and battery pack". This would put the project at a more "humble" non-flashlight multi-purpose light.

Is anyone still looking at this thread?

Cheers!

Ps. Here's the current wish list (last modified on 4/7/09)

1) Non-proprietary design (meaning its freely shared)
2) Lumen range of 500-1500 (higher is better)
3) Heat sinking designed into housing/mount configuration
4) Focusable (is this even possible?)
5) Adaptable for bike, headlamp or hand
6) Electronics capable of adjusting for conditions
7) Dimming
8) Readily available parts
9) Don't have to take out a second mortgage to do it
10) Easily built once parts are acquired
11) Employ drop-in (or quick change) components
12) Modular (changeable) light head and battery-pack
13) Watertight (Clarify: How watertight?)