CPFReviews.com: Nyogel 779ZC, Nyogel 759G, Nyogel 760G Lubricants

[ViReN]

Nyogel 779ZC, Nyogel 759G, Nyogel 760G Lubricants

I got Nyogel 779ZC, Nyogel 759G from www.lighthound.com more than 2 years ago. With this post, I attempt to share my experience with Nyogel lubs. I have also posted simple steps for flashlight care. Hope this helps for some one in need.

General Description:

Nyogel 779ZC, Nyogel 759G and Nyogel 760G are special type of high-quality, synthetic lubricant greases from Nye Lubricants Inc. Nye products are carefully engineered materials, formulated for a specific application marketed under SmartGrease™ brand.

Nyogel 779ZC is relatively thick, higher in viscosity grease that offers a higher level of damping and water protection. NyoGel 779ZC is silica thickened, synthetic hydrocarbon grease intended for mechanical components. It is designed and rated for temperatures from -20°C to 125°C. NyoGel 779ZC contains special additives for reducing wear of metal surfaces. NyoGel 779ZC works well for the flashlight o-rings at the bezel and tailcap as well as on threads on flashlights.

NyoGel 759G is relatively soft, lower in viscosity grease that offers a smoother feeling and lower level of damping. Like 779ZC, Nyogel 759G is also a silica thickened, synthetic hydrocarbon grease. Nyogel 759G is designed for the lubrication and protection of electrical contacts. NyoGel 759G is rated for temperature ranging from -40°C to 125°C.

NyoGel 760G is very similar to 759G. In fact, NyoGel 759G is now replaced by NyoGel 760G. NyoGel 760G offers slightly higher thermal stability and is rated for temperature ranging from -40°C to 135°C. In addition to that, NyoGel 760G has UV dye for inspection and copper passivator is added to it for enhanced corrosion prevention. Like Nyogel 759G, the NyoGel 760G is relatively soft, higher in viscosity grease offering a smoother feeling and lower level of damping. NyoGel 760G is also a synthetic hydrocarbon grease that is designed for the lubrication and protection of electrical contacts.
Note that NyoGel Nyogel 779ZC, Nyogel 759G and Nyogel 760G are not electrically conductive but designed for lubricating surfaces that are conductive. They offer great environmental and corrosion protection and extend the life of components in use.

Lighthound no longer carries NyoGel 759G and at the time of this review, Lighthound offers the latest Nyogel 779ZC and Nyogel 760G. This review is for 25 gram tubes of Nyogel 779ZC and Nyogel 759G that we have been using since as early as July 2006. In this review we share our experience of over 2 years using Nyogel 779ZC and Nyogel 759G lubricants. 25 grams is enough lubrication for hundreds or even thousands of applications. For more than 2+ years we have been using on considerable number of flashlights and yet we have about 25% of supplies still available. Supply for most users may last even longer.

For those who cant wait to read full review, please be advised that these are excellent lubricants and head straight to www.lighthound.com to procure Nyogel 779ZC and Nyogel 760G. NyoGel 779ZC and Nyogel 759G worked extremely well for the flashlight O-rings at the bezel and tailcap as well as on threads. For those who want to know how it performed over the period of 2 years and need to know important information on taking care of flashlights with Nyogel 779ZC, Nyogel 759G (Nyogel 760G) read on....
​

Pictures:

Nyogel 779ZC & Nyogel 759G: Nothing shiny here. The pictures here show two year old used 25 gm tubes of Nyogel 779ZC & Nyogel 759G.

​

Using Nyogel 779ZC, Nyogel 759G, Nyogel 760G Lubricants for Flashlight Care:

So how do we use Nyogel 779ZC & Nyogel 759G? Which one is best for a typical application? Can we use both together? We attempt to answer these questions here. Normally you can use either of Nyogel 779ZC and Nyogel 759G in any of the flashlights.
For this review, we are taking up an example of Jet I Pro. Steps shown here are for typical application process for tail cap threads. You may however apply same steps for threads on bezel end of battery tube. So now let's have a look at how tail cap threads look after quite a few battery changes. They look dirty, don't they? As you can see, they are very dirty where the battery tube ends. That's because end section has to travel more in to the tailcap switch. Threads inside the tailcap are also equally dirty.

Step 1 - Clean the threads: To clean threads we used simple tissue paper lightly soaked in pure water. Although, you can use any thing as long as it is not abrasive or damaging. Refrain from using strong solvent based cleaning solutions as they might cause damage to tail cap components and O-rings. Before beginning, we suggest you to remove O-ring. Threads on both battery tube as well as tail cap should be thoroughly cleaned. Cleaning tail cap threads is little difficult as compared to battery tube threads. You need to ensure that the negative contact spring does not get dislocated or malformed. Due care should be taken while cleaning tail cap threads. Wipe off the O-Ring with soft tissue soaked in water.

Caution: The threads at times may be sharp and may cause injury during cleaning. Use protective gear while cleaning the threads.

Step 2 - Choosing a right Lubricant: To make things simple, you can use any one of Nyogel 779ZC or Nyogel 759G. But let's give it a little thought. Nyogel 779ZC inheritably is a thicker where as Nyogel 759G is thinner relatively. Thicker lubricant should be used when there is more gap / play between threads. Thinner lubricant should be used for finely machined threads.


Step 3 - Applying the chosen Lubricant: First apply a little amount and spread it with fingers. Put back the tail cap so that the lubricant penetrates the tail cap threads.

Step 4 - Ensuring even application of Lubricant: With first application, it is likely that all threads are not evenly covered. So next step is to apply even more lubricant so that all threads are covered. Ensure that you are not using way too much that it starts oozing out of threads.

Step 5 - Finally evenly spread lubricant: Here is a closeup of evenly spread NyoGel 779ZC over the threads of both tail cap and battery tube. Notice that the O-ring is also very well lubricated.

So when do we use the thinner version Nyogel 759G? Let's see an example. This is Zebralight H50 Q5. It has fine pitch threads on battery tube and the tail cap acts as a twist switch. You need to ensure that the operation is smooth and the switching operation does not require much efforts. The relatively thinner version Nyogel 759G is perfectly suited for such an application. Before application, we recommend you to clean the threads as explained above. You need to apply a little amount of Nyogel 759G and it will spread evenly across the threads.

For people who are interested in technical data, please view the complete review.

​

Hope this helps

 

[Bullzeyebill]

I have had Nyogel 759G on hand for several years, but have been looking for a thread lubricant that would work well with twisty type lights. I had initially thought it would be the 759G, but noticed that within a few days that the twisty action of my lights was more difficult. It seems that the lubricant was setting up, and becoming thicker. I purchased a tube of 760G, and it seems to hold up better overtime, and my twisty lights are easier to work. Of course, prior to application of Nyogel I clean all thread surfaces thoroughly.

One other result of Nyogel 759G is increased electrical resistance. I do not notice it in all of my lights but it seems pronounced in MM lights, and other lights using the Kroll switch. The Kroll has built in resistance, and all of my Krolls receive cleaning and an application of ProGold regularly. After an application of Nyogel 759G to the threads of my VIP, and within a week or two, I will notice flickering with my Krolled VIP that goes away when I clean the threads. I can only assume that the 759G is the culprit. I have not given my 760G a trial test for resistance with my VIP. I was wondering if you have noticed any resistance issues using the Nyogel lubricants.

Bill

 

[ViReN]

I was wondering if you have noticed any resistance issues using the Nyogel lubricants.

Bill

Bill,

It's difficult to measure the resistance. One of the ways is to measure difference in light output. To naked eye, there is hardly any noticeable difference. But, I am going to perform scientific measurements of light readings before and after application to notice the difference between light output. I think it would be a good idea to measure light output difference of a regulated light.

I had initially thought it would be the 759G, but noticed that within a few days that the twisty action of my lights was more difficult.

Is it too old? like more than 4 - 5 years old? perhaps aging is the cause? For a daily used twisty light (Fenix P1) for example, I lubricate with 759G once in 2 months.

ViReN

 

[yaesumofo]

I also have tubes of both of these Lubes. They work well. I bought a 10 gram tube a couple of years ago and I still have plenty. Nice write up on these Lubes which for purposes really are just right for most flashlight uses.

I have also been using Magnalube which contains PTFE (Teflon) and will not migrate as a O-ring and thread lube.

Recently I have been looking at using a light oil on threads and a good grease type lube for the O-rings.
IMHO this combination is likely the best of all worlds. The parts which need lubrication are the threads. The O-rings need grease.
I think that experimentation is king. finding the lube or combination which works best for you (me) is the goal. I have enough sample greases to last several lifetimes. Even still I have yet to find the "perfect" combination.

Wayne at the shop sells a mixture of grease and oil which is used by McGizmo and has performed very well for many people.
The bottom line is try everything you can and figure out what works best for you. Oh and then share it with all of us to try too.
Yaesumofo

 

[Bullzeyebill]

My 759G is old and I will use the 760G instead. The Kroll is a good experimenter in that the slightest thing can make the Kroll go South, resistance wise. Actually, I use a twisty tailcap for my VIP mostly when using the high output setting. I think that a mixture of ProGold and Nyogel would be a good combination for the threads.

Bill

 

[Monocrom]

Have been using Nyogel 779ZC on my Surefire lights.
A truly excellent lube.

 

[ViReN]

Yaesu,

Using a combination of grease and oil is a good idea. Did you experience clogging?

I had tried this combination, but silicone grease and petroleum based oil didn't mix that well.

Which combination of oil and grease are you using? is it all silicone base or petroleum based?

 

[darkzero]

Oh man, if those tubes last you that long, wonder how long my two film canisters each of 779ZC & 759G is going to last me? I bought them here years ago & I'm barely even 1/4 into the first container.

So far they work great on everything I've used them on except on Ti threads.

 

[ViReN]

except on Ti threads

Will,

What's up with Ti Threads? are you using any thing for Ti Threads ?

ViReN

 

[fnj]

If 779 is "relatively thick", how can it be lower viscosity? And if 759 is "relatively soft", how can it be higher viscosity?

 

[Thujone]

I recently started using Krytox and it has less stiffness over time than my Nyolubes do. I hear it is also the recommended lube for Ti threads.

 

[BabyDoc]

This is a nice review, but I am surprised the OP didn't address the issue of the Nyogel turning black. I know this has been discussed in other threads, and it was said elsewhere that this is probably the result of oxidation of one of the components within the Nyogel. I personally don't find this to be a problem, except that I am never quite sure when it is time to relube my threads. When using Nyogel, I tend to wait until the threads feel gritty again rather than judging just by the appearance of the lube. My only concern is that by the time the threads feel like they need to be lubed again, I may have waited too long.

 

[ViReN]

If 779 is "relatively thick", how can it be lower viscosity? And if 759 is "relatively soft", how can it be higher viscosity?

fnj, thanks for pointing that typo....

 

[ViReN]

This is a nice review, but I am surprised the OP didn't address the issue of the Nyogel turning black. I know this has been discussed in other threads, and it was said elsewhere that this is probably the result of oxidation of one of the components within the Nyogel. I personally don't find this to be a problem, except that I am never quite sure when it is time to relube my threads. When using Nyogel, I tend to wait until the threads feel gritty again rather than judging just by the appearance of the lube. My only concern is that by the time the threads feel like they need to be lubed again, I may have waited too long.

The threads getting dirty means getting black. To my observation, Nyogel turns black due to suspended micro particles of aluminum that are generated due to use. Didn't see getting nyogel black without use.

I re lube threads when they turn black ....

 

[Monocrom]

The threads getting dirty means getting black. To my observation, Nyogel turns black due to suspended micro particles of aluminum. Didnt see getting nyogel black without use.

I re-lube threads when they turn black ....

Sweet! An early warning system when to re-lube threads. :twothumbs

 

[BabyDoc]

The threads getting dirty means getting black. To my observation, Nyogel turns black due to suspended micro particles of aluminum. Didnt see getting nyogel black without use.

I re lube threads when they turn black ....

The Nyogel will turn black within 24 hours of being applied. I believe in another thread the manufacturer stated this was NOT aluminum micro-particles within the threads, but oxidation of one of the components in the Nyogel. If it were aluminum, it doesn't say much for the Nyogel, does it?

 

[Monocrom]

The Nyogel will turn black within 24 hours of being applied. I believe in another thread the manufacturer stated this was NOT aluminum micro-particles within the threads, but oxidation of one of the components in the Nyogel. If it were aluminum, it doesn't say much for the Nyogel, does it?

24 hours??

That hasn't been my experience. But I only use 779ZC, so can't comment on 759G or 760G.

 

[AvidHiker]

Still no concensus on this whole blackening thing, huh?

I still strongly feel that the blackening comes from metal being abraded from the threads. I have both Nyogel products that Lighthound currently sells and both will turn black, but only after extended use. I've never seen any comments from the manufacturer, but if they exist I'd love to see them (oxidation of the lube seems, to me, to be a very unlikely explanation). Anyway, in my experience, if the Nyogel is on a tailcap that doesn't get removed very often, it takes quite a while to turn black. Therefore, it seems reasonable to assume that very small amounts of aluminum are, in fact, contaminating the lube. Also, these lubricants (silicone-based) are typically thickened with amorphous (fumed, spherical morphology) silica (I cannot confirm this for Nyogel as their formulation is proprietary, but I'm certain that this is common practice) which may make the effect more apparent. My theory (to be proven once I get access to an SEM with EDS) is that the silica particles in the Nyogel (assuming they're in there), by virtue of their hardness and potential to come in direct contact with bare aluminum under significant compressive loads, may acquire an extremely thin coating of aluminum under shear forces generated when the threads are operating, thereby magnifying the color change.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease

Anyway, I think nanoscale abrasion is perfectly normal for lubricated threads (using any lube) - there's no such thing as a perfect lubricant - and it doesn't reflect poorly on the quality of the lube. The amount of material being removed from the threads is insignificant and will never be noticable to the user (the threads will always work just fine). I use pure Krytox grease (very expensive as formulated for laboratory glassware - extremely resistant to oxidation, heat, etc) on my Ti McGizmo and the threads still turn black after a week of frequent use.

btw - For titanium in general, my understanding is that PTFE-based products are far superior to anything else. This has been stated in many a lube thread.

 

[AvidHiker]

Maybe I should just have done a little searching - all of these Nyogel products are silica thickened:

Example:
http://www.nyelubricants.com/pdf/760g.pdf

 

[LED-holic]

Thank you Viren for a very informative review. This is a superb article.