Tried out Nyogel 779ZC

Solar Powered Pickle

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
55
Ok at first I was a little hesitant to shell out money for lubrication on my P35 Q5. I thought lube is lube right? So I tried out what I had around the garage at first. I used teflon tape, graphite lube, mobile 1 synthetic, and pure silicone grease. None of these seemed to provide smooth enough operation. I mean.. some of these lubes would seem okay for a couple of days and then I get the same 'ol rough operation on the threads.

I finally said "screw it" and shelled out the cash for it. Man I can't believe how well this stuff works. I opted to go with 779ZC Nyo since I read it was the thicke stuff and wooohoo!!! my p3d feels like it was brand new when twisting the head. The operation is smooth as silk and feels just right. Quality stuff!

I should of bought this stuff sooner.
 
759G is "[a] soft, silica thickened, high viscosity synthetic hydrocarbon, grease itended for lubrication and protection of tin lead electrical connectors". - Nye Lubricants

760G is "[a] silica thickened, medium viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease for lubrication and protection of electrical contacts [containing a copper deactivator which inhibits copper oxidation, and a UV tracer to allow for leak detection and pressure testing]. Benefits include good water resistance." - Nye Lubricants

779zc is "[a] silica thickened, light viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease intended for mechanical components that require a light level of damping. Contains special additives (extreme pressure lubricant fortified) for reducing wear of aluminum surfaces". - Nye Lubricants
 
Last edited:
What is this nano-oil stuff?
Nano-Oil is an oil-based suspension of NanoLub lubricant particles offered in different viscosities. NanoLube is another such product which advertises itself as a suspension of powdered NanoLub in lightweight oil. Both products seek to distribute NanoLub particles across bearing surfaces, with the oil meant to evaporate over time.
 
I have a tube of Nyogel 759G...is there much difference between them?

Yapo I'm can't say since I've never used 759G. I read somewhere that the 779ZC was thicker so I thought that it may last longer and since it is thicker it may have a smoother effect on the thread operation.

Its pretty darn smooth... Like I said it feels like it was brand new right outa the box.
 
thx for that adam...

yep Pickle, thats what i thought when i first used my nyogel...I just had to feed some to all my lights.
 
What we can summarize here is that 760G is best for electrically conductive threads and that 779zc is best for O-rings :thumbsup: .
 
It would be nice if the Nyogel website had some sort of comparison or search for the right properties...or is there?

...hmm i did search on cpf n it seems like my tube of 759G is out of date...according to others it makes twisties abit too tight
 
Last edited:
What we can summarize here is that 760G is best for electrically conductive threads and that 779zc is best for O-rings :thumbsup: .

^ +1 What he said. I used to use both, 760G for conductive threads and 779zc for the o-rings. I have since switched from the 760G to nanolube when it was being sold for cheap a few months ago and have been quite happy since. I still use the 779zc for the o-rings.

One thing that you will notice if you use the 760G on the theads is all the black crud that will accumulate over time. I believe it's aluminum oxide or something like that, but whatever it is, it's normal. Just wipe the crud off and apply a little bit of clean 760G to the threads again. The other thing you'll notice is if you use 779zc on the o-rings on a light that you edc, lint, dust, and other crud will accumulate on the o-ring which is also normal. Same advice, clean it off occasionally and re-apply the 779zc.

If you end up getting some of the nanolube/nano-oil stuff, my advice is to use only a couple drops on the threads only, don't use it on the o-ring. I was a little over zealous when I first got it and lubed the o-rings too and now some of my lights are a little too smooth. I lubed a friend's P1D-CE and it's a little too easy to twist now and it's harder to lock it in a certain mode. Stick with the 779zc for the o-rings because you want a certain amount of resistance for a twisty light.
 
I read on a previous thread here that either type of Nyogel
(760G or 779ZC) will work just fine for both threads and
O rings.

Is it really necessay to buy both types for a flashlight?:eek:

From what I see on the 2 lights I own (Dereelight) I
don't see how having 2 different lubes, one for threads
and one for O rings, would not eventually get
slightly mixed togehter from normal use.

Am I right. Or do I need to really be that cautious between the 2 different types of Nyogel?

I will be buying some soon for my lights first application and that is why I ask.
 
I read on a previous thread here that either type of Nyogel
(760G or 779ZC) will work just fine for both threads and
O rings.

Is it really necessay to buy both types for a flashlight?:eek:

.

I don't think its really necessary to purchase both. I read that the 779ZC was meant to lubricate aluminum threads. I have aluminum threads on my Fenix p3d. Since it works great on the O-rings I just it for that as well.

The black crude you see on the threads is normal and will probably be there with any type of lube you use.

Just my humble opinion.
 
Ok at first I was a little hesitant to shell out money for lubrication on my P35 Q5. I thought lube is lube right? So I tried out what I had around the garage at first. I used teflon tape, graphite lube, mobile 1 synthetic, and pure silicone grease. None of these seemed to provide smooth enough operation. I mean.. some of these lubes would seem okay for a couple of days and then I get the same 'ol rough operation on the threads.

I finally said "screw it" and shelled out the cash for it. Man I can't believe how well this stuff works. I opted to go with 779ZC Nyo since I read it was the thicke stuff and wooohoo!!! my p3d feels like it was brand new when twisting the head. The operation is smooth as silk and feels just right. Quality stuff!

I should of bought this stuff sooner.

I looked at the MSDS and it says the base oil is silica thickened synthetic hydrocarbon. So, even though it's not natural, it is hydrocarbon, same stuff as petroleum lube. I wonder if 779ZC would be safe on rubber parts that does not tolerate petroleum lube.
 
For those who have been listening to the old timers here (like This_Is_Nascar) you might find there is something far better AND not that expensive around. I finally stumbled across it (thanks to TIN) and it has worked far better for me than anything else I've found including Nyogel. And much as I hate to tell anyone to go to Radio Shack - that's the easiest place to find this pen type lube with PTFE (Teflon) that is really by far the best for making twisties twist easy and smooth, best for not turning your aluminum threads to dark gray gunk and so far seems to work great on every light I've put it on (at least 30 different lights). I think it was $3.49 and while small it still looks almost full. This one
 
From my own personal Exhaustive Grimoire Of Flashlight-Specific Lubricants And Applications:

'Twisty' lights with bare aluminum threads (like the old Jetbeam C-LE v1.0 and v1.2), are the most critical. The wrong lubricant will not only make for rough operation, it can cause excessive thread wear leading to early failure.


Here is a wrapup of some common lubricants and their applications:

Krytox
Krytox is hideously expensive (a 2 oz tube of Loctite Krytox will set you back about 40 dollars), but it is exceptional at reducing galling in stainless steel and Titanium. It will also completely eliminate o-ring sticking. Not for use on bare aluminum threads or lightly anodized surfaces because it is abrasive to these surfaces and will lead to excessive wear. I use Krytox with my little L0D-Q4. The L0D has hard type III anodized threads which do not grind or wear with Krytox. The decision to go with Krytox over Nyogel 760G in the L0D was based on the need to eliminate o-ring sticking. My L0D has a very tight o-ring which was having sticking problems with every other lubricant that I tried. With Krytox, my L0D now has perfetly smooth one handed operation. BUT REMEMBER KRYTOX IS NOT FOR LIGHTS LIKE THE C-LE, WHICH HAVE BARE ALUMINUM THREADS. In the C-LE, it was NOT smooth at all, and eventually caused enough wear to lead to thread failure.

Nyogel 760G
A synthetic silicone based grease, but much smoother and lower wear than other silicone greases like silicone plumber's grease or Dow Molykote 111. Nyogel helps to minimize thread wear, even in soft alloys of bare aluminum, and shows only slight o-ring sticking with tight o-rings. It's a good choice for Twisty lights with bare threads like the Jetbeam C-LE. Overall Nyogel is a fantastic general purpose grease to have around, and you can get a large 2 oz tube from battery junction for just over $10 shipped (if you use the lowest cost USPS shipping option).

Moble 1 Automotive Grease

Moble 1 Automotive Grease works a LOT better than you might expect. This grease actually gives smoother operation than Nyogel 760G in my C-LE, and I have had no problems at all with o-ring sticking or deterioration (even after several months of use). Other general purpose Lithium Greases may also work, but some have expressed concerns that greases with volatile components might release vapors that could fog your flashlight's main lens. I haven't had any problems with this while using Mobil 1 Grease, but anyone who is concerned should stay with Nyogel 760G which is fairly close in performance and is known to have very low volatility.

Dow Molykote 111 or Generic Silicone Plumber's Grease
Poor lubricant properties and heavy o-ring sticking (o-rings will almost weld if the light is left unused for a few weeks). Not Recommended.

Tetra Lube G (or other PTFE or Teflon based grease)

These greases are a fraction of the cost of Krytox, and work just as well at providing effective lubrication, but are not quite as effective at eliminating o-ring sticking. In my testing, these greases were slightly less abrasive to bare aluminum threads than Krytox, but I still would not recommended them for lights like the Jetbeam C-LE (or any other twisty lights which use bare aluminum threads).

-Don't mix more than one kind of lube on the same place, otherwise the less viscous lube will "float" on the other one, making things way too slick and/or messy.

-Modern o-rings work fine with products containing petroleum, because they're not made of raw rubber. This is only a concern with much older flashlights.

-Conductivity is a non-issue; If "non-conductive" lube made a flashlight inoperable, it wouldn't have worked when you first took it out of the box.

-Look at the places that sell flashlight parts/accessories for flashlight lube, it doesn't have to be a goose chase.
 
I use Losi shock oil, 100% pure silicon in a non-reactive base with no additives. It's oil that goes in the dampeners of my nitro RC truck. Used it on a ton of lights with no problem at all, makes a nice long-lasting film and I have not had one single incident of the o-ring swelling up, nor any contact problems. Highly recommended.
 
Here's the lube I use..Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant. The tube says: Stop squeaking, stop slide sticking, ease rebuilding of rubber parts-o rings,grommets, boots, seals boots against moisture.
I had a tube lieing around and since its safe for rubber o-rings I used it on the threads and o-ring on my Fenix L0D. Seems to work great. I would love to read a comparison to some of the lubes listed above.
 
I have been at this for a while now.
The best stuff I have found for both O-ring and threads is MAGNALUBE. the stuff rocks. It does have PTFE and will not migrate when it heats. You bet this is important since flashlights get HOT.


So maintenance is pretty easy. take the light apart. completely clean all parts so they are free of all lube. then put a dab (less is more) on the O-ring and spread it so the O-ring has some on it all the way around. Another small dab on the threads and put the light together and take it apart a couple of times spreading the lube out.
If you have a light with tight threads or a TI light which is less than smooth. then again a dab of MAGNALUBE on the o_ring and then some ( and when I say some I mean a little tiny bit. 1/16-1/8 of a drop will do) Ont the threads and work it in. Nanolube will make a less than perfect light smooth as silk. I also treat the contacts of my flashlights with this stuff I get at RS in a pen like delivery system called ProGold IMHO this is equally important to thread lube. If I have a flicker issue or a light which seems to be acting up I have found that a drop of ProGold works wonders. Don't ask me why or how it works I have no idea. But I know FORSURE that it does work. RS sells (or used to a little goes a long way) this stuff in a combo pack containing Progold and DeoxIT. It is a little expensive but worth it IMHO. Definitely no diehard flashlight freak should be without these little pen applicators with ProGold and DeoxIt.

As much as people use the Nyogel products they are actually pretty OLD tech. Our new cool lights need high tech stuff like MAGNALUBE and Nanolube.

I guess you could say that the Nyogel products are old school and the MAGNA and NANO LUBE products are NEW SCHOOL.

BTW Most lube companies (but not magnalube and nanolube) will supply samples upon request. I have received what amounts to lifetime supplies from several companies (including several Nyogel products).
All you have to do is ask.
I was able to try all of these samples on flashlights.

I still prefer the MAGNALUBE as an overall best lube for both threads and O-Rings.

Look there are a lot of products out there. Many are fine. The important thing is to NOT use a product which is going to damage the O-Ring. As long as you are happy with the end result then that is the best stuff to use.

IMHO until somebody actually figures out a scientific method to test these products IN FLASHLIGHTS (so the results apply to us) then all of us are simply stating a subjective OPINION. What works for me may not work well for you. My O-Rings may be different. My idea of smooth may be different.
My concept of what is important about a flashlight lube maybe different that yours. In light of this the best you can do is get some samples and try it for your self. Hell if you only have one or two lights then it may not be worth the effort to try more than one or not just listen to me or some another member and just buy some Nyogel or Magnalube. On the other hand if you have a bunch of lights then your time may be well spent determining which is best for you.

IN the end we are only talking about flashlight lube here a pretty silly thing really.

Yaesumofo
 
Yaesumofo - Magnalube sounds good and seems like a good price on their web site for the 4 x .75 oz. tubes. I like that it has the PTFE in it but have you tried the Rat Shack Pen oiler with PTFE? I'm tempted to try Magnalube now but if it's an actual grease then it seems like it would make a twisty just a little harder to turn than a light oil all else being equal. And you are right
IN the end we are only talking about flashlight lube here a pretty silly thing really.
but it's fun fine tuning and just tinkering with these little details :D
 
Top