Custom SF question. (First post, eek!)

[GeoBruin]

I've lurked for a while but I need some help so I decided to make an account.

I'm looking for a light to carry in a pack or possibly in a holster on my pack's waist belt during adventure races. These races can be 4, 8, 12 or even 24 hours long but usually take place at least partially at night. My primary use would be spotting far off orienteering flags in semi dense forest and signalling my team mate/s. However, I would love a lower output mode for reading maps, fixing my bike, stitching myself up, etc.

I really like the SureFire 6P form factor, especially the custom hosts at Oveready. I'd love to drop in a Malkoff M61 (that seems like kind of a gold standard) but in my reading, I don't recall anyone finding an elegant way to achieve multiple modes.

I guess my question is this: If there is a good way to get a low output mode out of the Malkoff, what is it? And if not, is there another drop in/switch setup that will allow me to achieve what I'm looking for?

As mentioned, I really like the Oveready hosts so I would appreciate being able to keep the matching tail cap, but I understand if it's not possible. So can it be done, or am I trying to have my cake and eat it too?

Remember, it's my first post (so take it easy on me!)

 

[SuperTrouper]

Maybe you could fit a diffuser on the head with some kind of filter that's thick enough to reduce the output?

Or perhaps a Surefire Stratum or an LX2 would be more your cup of tea as both of those feature low modes and the Stratum is very similar to the 6P in style.


Also: :welcome:

 

[pjandyho]

I think Stratum and LX2 is great for what you needed it to do. At least you get a lower output and max output. I have both and likes them alot. I am not too sure if you are particular about warranty coverage but the Oveready Surefire lights or hosts are no longer covered under Surefire's warranty because in a way they have been modded. If you want to retain Surefire's warranty coverage then buying stock as-is is the way to go.

 

[nbp]

Or pick your P60 host, get a multimode dropin of your choice from Nailbender, and put in a McClicky tailswitch for easy mode changes. Pretty easy little build and you can put it together however you like.

 

[RepProdigious]

You can do a little research how the M61 works with the Uniq tailcap......

 

[calipsoii]

Or pick your P60 host, get a multimode dropin of your choice from Nailbender, and put in a McClicky tailswitch for easy mode changes. Pretty easy little build and you can put it together however you like.

+1

Just received my first Nailbender P60 drop-in and I think it'll fit the bill for what you're looking for. I put it in a Surefire 6P host with a Z59 clicky tailcap. I guess the only thing that was a bit unexpected is that Nailbender/Malkoff drop-ins create a gap between the body and the head - on mine it's about 4mm wide. Not a big deal and the posts I read about it say it doesn't affect water resistance. Took me about an hour to get used to it and now I don't notice.

You'll have to do a little research on what kind of emitter you want in there. I believe his XP-G and SST-50/90 drop-ins are his most popular. I purchased an SST-50 3-mode regulated 5700k with smooth reflector. On mine, the low level would be satisfactory for night reading, though it'd be a bit bright for night-adjusted eyes. On high it's a real scorcher and throws a huge hotspot.

With a forward-clicky momentary switch, the 3-mode UI is very nice. Tap the button a couple times to get to your desired level then click it in fully. Once on a level for 3+ seconds, the dropin memorizes it and will turn on to that level next time. Order is Low > Medium > High.

Hope that helps!

 

[nbp]

Calipsoil: you can cut down to one or two rings or completely remove the big spring on the outside of the dropin to allow the head to seat flush on the body of the light. I had to remove it totally on my sst50 module to get it in my C2 without a gap. I couldn't stand the gap.

 

[CarpentryHero]

+2 Nailbender makes Multiple mode dropins for the 6P.

 

[Darvis]

Or consider the L1, nice low with a quick further press for high, plus a bit lighter and only uses one cell. Can't go wrong any way you slice it, though and the recommendation to check out what Nailbender offers in multi levels is a great way to go.

Oveready's hosts are top notch as well and I wouldn't over sweat the lack of warranty as the hosts are pretty much bombproof; worst case scenario is that you might need to buy a part such as a lens, etc. which are cheap and readily available anyway.

I would actually recommend the bored out C2 host over the 6P as I think the grip ring and clip may be better suited for your contesting purposes... just a suggestion. I also much prefer the 18650 over 2 primary cells; if you're going to use the light heavily, then the rechargeable option may really suit you in the long term. Go Pila IBC for the charger and AW for the cells and you'll have a light that, literally, should last forever...

And :welcome:

 

[tundratrader]

Nailbender makes great multi mode dropins. You could also get the md2 body use the m61 with a hi/lo ring.

I have not used the next gen surefire lights so I cannot comment on those. They should be great. I have not seen a bad surefire.

 

[gshack]

Another newbie here, I like the Solarforce L2 models - you might want to check these out. As others have stated, something that takes a P60 dropin and definitely multi modes to extend your battery life. If you go to these events on a regular basis, you might also want to look into rechargeables. The cost of batteries can definitely add up quick if you use your light frequently.

 

[calipsoii]

Calipsoil: you can cut down to one or two rings or completely remove the big spring on the outside of the dropin to allow the head to seat flush on the body of the light. I had to remove it totally on my sst50 module to get it in my C2 without a gap. I couldn't stand the gap.

Hmm, I had cut it down to 2 rings (flush with the pcb) but I just now tried removing the spring and it does indeed screw down completely with no gap. Is that a recommended practice? I remember reading somewhere that it needs the spring to properly transfer heat or something...

 

[Darvis]

Hmm, I had cut it down to 2 rings (flush with the pcb) but I just now tried removing the spring and it does indeed screw down completely with no gap. Is that a recommended practice? I remember reading somewhere that it needs the spring to properly transfer heat or something...

I don't use the outer springs on any of mine, in fact, you should now be getting better heat transfer since more surface are is in contact with the host. If yoju are still concerned about heat transfer, aluminum foil can be wrapped around the drop-in for better transfer as well.

 

[nbp]

The big spring is the negative contact I believe. But if the module fits in such that the body makes the contact with out the spring, it really isn't necessary. Plus, then it fits better, so IMO, out it goes!

 

[Flashlightboy]

As I understand your sport it's kind of like an Eco Challenge type of race, no? If so, I'd think that weight would be at a premium and every little bit counts.

I own a fair number of SureFires and the 6P in any form is a good light but itself or as a base for mods however, have you looked at the E1L or possibly the E2OL? Smaller form factor, focused beam and dual outputs via their well-proven clickie tailcap. I own those lights as well and I believe they will work well for you.

I'm also assuming you have an accompanying headlamp based on my limited idea of your sport. Common battery configuration a concern? If so you and you're already using AA batteries then you might want to take a look at the E2L-AA model.

The runtimes are very good on all of those lights and the weight is way down along with the near bulletproofness of their HA finish.

Just my contribution to the convo.

 

[cm_mtb]

see below

 

[cm_mtb]

From what I've read on CPF, the M61 is actually fairly floody, and therefore not the best spotter. Any of the Surefires with a TIR optic would throw further. The E1L, E2L, L1, LX2, and E1B are all excellent choices, just consider which UI, output, and cell count would be best for you.

 

[Flashlightboy]

From what I've read on CPF, the M61 is actually fairly floody, and therefore not the best spotter. Any of the Surefires with a TIR optic would throw further. The E1L, E2L, L1, LX2, and E1B are all excellent choices, just consider which UI, output, and cell count would be best for you.

Hey, that's not fair. I suggested those lights first. I'm telling somebody what you did.

 

[cm_mtb]

Hey, that's not fair. I suggested those lights first. I'm telling somebody what you did.

You only suggested the Outdoorsmen lights.

 

[GeoBruin]

Or pick your P60 host, get a multimode dropin of your choice from Nailbender, and put in a McClicky tailswitch for easy mode changes. Pretty easy little build and you can put it together however you like.

This sounds like a great option. I've of course seen the Nailbender name tossed around as well, but where would I go to look at the drop in options?