cycle experts: need to lube my bike
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jtr1962
Flashaholic
You'll probably get as many answers to that as there are cyclists but I've been using either paraffin or just plain 3-in-1 oil. I usually use the 3-in-1 oil in between drivetrain cleanings when the chain needs lubrication but I'm too lazy to do a complete cleaning/lube job. Every few thousand miles I remove the chain, clean it thoroughly in solvent, and lube it with paraffin-based chain wax. It usually remains quiet and clean for a while after that. Lately I've tried adding a little teflon powder to the chain wax. Not sure so far if it's making any difference in how long I can go between chain lubes, but at least it's not hurting anything. For some reason the 10-speed chain on my Raleigh seems to need lubrication a lot more often than the heavier chains I've used prior to that.
http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
Ok, in all seriousness, it's not critical what you use as long as it's not grease. You need to use oil because grease doesn't provide proper penetration between the links or between the pins where the cogs ride.
Clean it with a citrus degreaser regularly and use any decent quality liquid lube. I like teflon based lubes but even WD40 is fine as long as you clean it with regularity. With the type of riding I do I can go about 100-200 miles between cleanings, with wipe downs and resprays in between.
Ok, in all seriousness, it's not critical what you use as long as it's not grease. You need to use oil because grease doesn't provide proper penetration between the links or between the pins where the cogs ride.
Clean it with a citrus degreaser regularly and use any decent quality liquid lube. I like teflon based lubes but even WD40 is fine as long as you clean it with regularity. With the type of riding I do I can go about 100-200 miles between cleanings, with wipe downs and resprays in between.
smokinbasser
Flashlight Enthusiast
Check out White Lightning self cleaning wax lubricant for bicycle chains
DUQ
Flashlight Enthusiast
Straight up 3 in 1. I've been using it for almost 10 years.
+
Been using Tri-Flow AEROSOL on my chains for lots 'o years.
Using a freewheel:
Apply while back pedaling ~ keep back pedaling for a minute to penetrate ~ wipe off excess..
_______________________________________________________________
Using a coaster brake:
Do previous steps while forward pedaling...
Been using Tri-Flow AEROSOL on my chains for lots 'o years.
Using a freewheel:
Apply while back pedaling ~ keep back pedaling for a minute to penetrate ~ wipe off excess..
_______________________________________________________________
Using a coaster brake:
Do previous steps while forward pedaling...
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jzmtl
Flashlight Enthusiast
I use motor oil.
Tekno_Cowboy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Depending on how picky you are, there are lots of choices. I just use whatever grease I have sitting around for the bearings, and whatever oil or spray I can find for the chain, and my bike has been working well for me for 13 years.
The most important thing is to clean off all the gunk already on the drivetrain. I'd recommend using a water soluble degreaser with a brush and a hose. This can take a little time and effort depending on how dirty it is.
Once it's clean, use either a wet lube or a dry wax based lube but don't mix the two.
I use (white lightning) dry lube since it stays clean for longer and is easier to wipe clean. Despite the self-cleaning description, the drivetrain still needs to be wiped clean and re-lubricated every few rides for minimum friction.
Once it's clean, use either a wet lube or a dry wax based lube but don't mix the two.
I use (white lightning) dry lube since it stays clean for longer and is easier to wipe clean. Despite the self-cleaning description, the drivetrain still needs to be wiped clean and re-lubricated every few rides for minimum friction.
tebore
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've used 3 in 1 for a while and it just doesn't work well after a while it gunked up and I had to clean it up again. It does the same thing on some of my motors. If it's the same little bottle of 3 in 1 we're talking about.
Motor oil actually isn't bad I used Mobile 1 and it's light yet it doesn't run completely off I can see a coating on it and it doesn't gunk up. Plus I figure if it's good enough for the engine it's good enough for my bike.
Monkeyboy has a good point it's key to make sure the whole drive train is clean before relubing. I use an engine degrease and a brush then I hit it with WD-40 to get the water out then re-lube.
Motor oil actually isn't bad I used Mobile 1 and it's light yet it doesn't run completely off I can see a coating on it and it doesn't gunk up. Plus I figure if it's good enough for the engine it's good enough for my bike.
Monkeyboy has a good point it's key to make sure the whole drive train is clean before relubing. I use an engine degrease and a brush then I hit it with WD-40 to get the water out then re-lube.
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Tri-flow is good stuff. You may as well used something that is DESIGNED for bike chains, rather than just whatever crap is laying around your garage.
When you clean, as was mentioned, use a water soluble degreaser that will rinse cleanly rather than a solvent like paint thinner. While solvents clean well, you will likely not get ALL of the solvent out of the links and it will speed up the degradation of the lubricant you put on the chain afterwards.
The downside of motor oil is that it is designed to pick up dirt in your engine. It does the same thing on your chain. It picks up a lot of dirt, it's sticky. Excess dirt in the chainlinks causes them to wear prematurely. If you go this route, you'll probably have to clean it and relube it more often.
Just my thoughts as a cyclist.
When you clean, as was mentioned, use a water soluble degreaser that will rinse cleanly rather than a solvent like paint thinner. While solvents clean well, you will likely not get ALL of the solvent out of the links and it will speed up the degradation of the lubricant you put on the chain afterwards.
The downside of motor oil is that it is designed to pick up dirt in your engine. It does the same thing on your chain. It picks up a lot of dirt, it's sticky. Excess dirt in the chainlinks causes them to wear prematurely. If you go this route, you'll probably have to clean it and relube it more often.
Just my thoughts as a cyclist.
I'd been using the dry wax based lubricants previously then I switched to a wet type back in spring '08.
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/cross-country-lube.htm
I like it so far. The routine is to saturate a cloth, crank the chain through it a few times till reasonably gunk free and obviously coated. I'll do this every 400 miles. The waxy stuff didn't seem to penetrate into the links to my satisfaction. Oil tends to migrate so while it may not be a sopping amount, there is more confidence in it penetrating. I'm not picky so whatever goes on sale is bought.
Guys on the forum comment about chain and cog life. My expectation is somewhere about 1,600-2K miles per chain conservatively. There is minimal desire to go longer as chains for mine are ~$30 or less on sale.
That chain cleaning routine from Sheldon's site...:twothumbs
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/cross-country-lube.htm
I like it so far. The routine is to saturate a cloth, crank the chain through it a few times till reasonably gunk free and obviously coated. I'll do this every 400 miles. The waxy stuff didn't seem to penetrate into the links to my satisfaction. Oil tends to migrate so while it may not be a sopping amount, there is more confidence in it penetrating. I'm not picky so whatever goes on sale is bought.
Guys on the forum comment about chain and cog life. My expectation is somewhere about 1,600-2K miles per chain conservatively. There is minimal desire to go longer as chains for mine are ~$30 or less on sale.
That chain cleaning routine from Sheldon's site...:twothumbs
Steve K
Flashlight Enthusiast
This is the question that has no answer... other than to note that lithium grease isn't the answer!
Anything that works for you is fine. There are some general rules of thumb, such as using dry waxy lubes in places that are dry and dirty, while wet lubes (i.e. actual oil products) are good for wet, cleaner places. For example, the dry lubes were developed for mountain bikes that are constantly in the dirt.
Regardless of the type of lube, the critical thing is to keep the drivetrain clean. I've adopted a routine of cleaning the chain every 500 miles, which is at least once a month. My chains last at least 3000 miles.
I've been using Pro-Link for the last few years, and used Tri-Flow for years before that. They both work fine. I've used WD-40 before, but it is questionable as to whether it really qualifies as a lube. Now I use it to flush the water out of my chain after cleaning and before reapplying lube.
oh.. if you are asking about lubing bearings.. then there are a lot of greases that are suitable. I tend to prefer some of the synthetic greases or Phil Wood grease. Lithium grease was pretty standard 10 or 20 years ago, but the stuff does tend to dry up and get pretty nasty after a few years.
regards,
Steve K.
That chain cleaning routine from Sheldon's site...:twothumbs
Isn't that hillarious...lol. First time I come accross that unsuspectingly I thought to myself, "you've gotta be kidding me....what freaks!" A few seconds later I realized it was a just a silly joke.
SteveK, mentioned Pro-Link, which is probably the best chain lube I've used yet. The only problem is that I often keep my bike inside the house and the Pro-Link has a stronger smell to it. Other than that it been a good lube that doesn't attract too much dirt.
I have broken down my bike a few times and did an extensive cleaning of bearings and the chain. One suggestion, a few years back, to clean the chain.
remove it from the bike
put some kerosene in a 2 liter soda bottle.
slip the chain in.
put the cap on the bottle
shake like crazy -
you might have to change out the kerosene once or twice.
you might also have to cut open the bottle to remove the chain.
Kerosene is a light oil, you still have to lube the chain when you are done.
OR
buy one of those water soluble chain cleaning kits and leave the chain on the bike.
remove it from the bike
put some kerosene in a 2 liter soda bottle.
slip the chain in.
put the cap on the bottle
shake like crazy -
you might have to change out the kerosene once or twice.
you might also have to cut open the bottle to remove the chain.
Kerosene is a light oil, you still have to lube the chain when you are done.
OR
buy one of those water soluble chain cleaning kits and leave the chain on the bike.
SpinDrift
Banned
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2009
- Messages
- 29
Finally someone mentioned the environment in which the bike will be rode!
It does matter, different lube for pavement than dirt or gravel trails or roads, and different if the area where cycling is usually dry or wet.
Some try an all-in-1 wet/dry/dusty/grit/gravel/mud/snow/sleet solution, but I just vary by season and/or what surface I tend to ride on.
DON'T use thick/greasy lubes, they clump and will pick up everything and then friction does its worst.
DON'T use WD-40 or 3-1 because they pick up a lot of grit too and mostly drip off the chain in no time anyway, they are thin greasy crap really.
DO degrease/clean your chain/drivetrain often. This is more important than lubing. Lubing does little good if there is grit and grime all over your chain and you are just covering it up so it can grind into your chain some more on top of the lube. Got to get that crud off!
A few brands to try:
Pro Link Pro Gold (for dry and dusty: i mostly ride in these conditions so i use this a lot) lasts forever!
Purple Extreme (for wetter conditions: i use this when it rained but i'm still on gravel/dirt) last a good time too.
White Lightening (good for pavement: i use it dry or wet for long trips on pavement which i don't do often however) doesn't last very long, have to reapply on longer trips.
If you bike in the rain or crossing streams or mountain bike in the muck try Finish Line X-Country Extreme. I don't do this often, but it's very water resistant.
Stay away from: Pedro's Ice Wax, Finish Line Krytech, Tri-Flow Dry Wax. They just don't last so the cost ratio is no good.
General rules:
Wax leaves a chain very clean and shiny, but they are poor in moisture and need a clean chain to bond with and don't last real long. They also aren't really lubricants, just protectants.
Teflon is good, it won't get your chain as clean as wax but is moisture resistant and stays on long.
Wet lubes are good for wet areas and help prevent rust. They are poor for dusty and dry areas though.
The key is really to buy and try for yourself because you'll find contradictory reports about each and every brand and type of lube (except not to use generic household lubes or motor oil! yikes!).
Have fun, cycling rocks!
jayflash
Flashlight Enthusiast
Kerosene or mineral spirits (thinner) will clean and even let a very light film on the chain to prevent rusting for awhile. Naphtha (Coleman Fuel) or lacquer thinner will really strip hardened junk and will completely dry, letting little or nothing behind so your lube gets right to the metal surface.
TriFlow or aerosol Teflon bike lubes seem to work well without attracting too much dirt. I don't off road too much, however.
Isn't WD-40 designed, mainly, to displace water and not as a lubricant?
TriFlow or aerosol Teflon bike lubes seem to work well without attracting too much dirt. I don't off road too much, however.
Isn't WD-40 designed, mainly, to displace water and not as a lubricant?
65535
Flashlight Enthusiast
It is a lubricant, but it's not a terribly great lubricant. It's great for drying parts after using water based cleaners. I wouldn't really use it as a lubricant, I find myself using it mostly as a cleaner before lubricating parts.
iapyx
Enlightened
The company that custom made my bike says to absolutely refrain from using WD40, thinner, fuel or refined petrol (zippo fuel) to clean the chain.
Best is to use a towel or cloth and put it around the chain (between finger and thumb) and turn the chain backwards to clean it. If it's really dirty then use brushes.
Lubricate with a special [teflon based] liquid. Better to lubricate frequently a little than incidentally a lot.
Also: change the chain every 750 - 1000 km to prevent a wearing out pattern. After you change the 2nd chain you can put back the 1st chain as it lasts about 2000 km. (depends on your riding style)
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