While I'm definitely not a razor lover in a practical sense, (i.e. If I had to run a straight edge over my throat to shave, I'd opt for a permanent beard!), I am a lover of impressive metalwork. My opinion is that your friend is a true artisan and craftsman, and his work makes me wish I had more than a 10x20 foot garage to squash my woodworking, metalworking, gunsmithing, and general "rip-it-apart-and-see-how-it-works" hobbies into so I could pursue these hobbies (and some new ones like coatings, metal treatments, anodizing, 3D printing, and CNC) in greater depth just as your friend has. I am also a fan of D2 tool steel for its strength and toughness though I have no knowledge (pro or con) of its ability to take or keep an edge.A friend of mine started making Japanese-style razors from Damascus, the main steel is D2. I'm wondering if there are any razor lovers here who could give their opinion on this?
Your friend made a huge mistake using D2. It's going to have a very limited shelf life as no one will be able to hone it properly once it does get dull. It'll take a long time before that happens. But on a tool designed for shaving, it'll be useless in less time.A friend of mine started making Japanese-style razors from Damascus, the main steel is D2. I'm wondering if there are any razor lovers here who could give their opinion on this?
I know, I still have my two custom-made Bob Dozier hunting knives from the 1990s. Fantastic bladesmith who only works with quality D2. But in case of razors meant to be used, the issue isn't a proper heat-treat or not. The issue is resharpening D2 back to a razor's edge. Good luck to anyone without a massive amount of resharpening skill, knowledge, and equipment. Only individual I've known who could pull it off was a dentist with access to an actual laser sharpener. Last thing I'd want going across my cheek is a slightly sharp D2 blade.Properly heat treated D2 will be fine, and take a keen edge.
The world being flooded with poor grade Chinese D2 has given it a bad name, but it was a staple in the custom world for many, many years due to how well it performed.
Ahhh, I getcha.I know, I still have my two custom-made Bob Dozier hunting knives from the 1990s. Fantastic bladesmith who only works with quality D2. But in case of razors meant to be used, the issue isn't a proper heat-treat or not. The issue is resharpening D2 back to a razor's edge. Good luck to anyone without a massive amount of resharpening skill, knowledge, and equipment. Only individual I've known who could pull it off was a dentist with access to an actual laser sharpener. Last thing I'd want going across my cheek is a slightly sharp D2 blade.
Wow, did you do this yourself? Looks very niceLooks good!
Articles I've come across D2 shares some similarities in the kitchen environment too. Those discuss that the thinness necessary is not a characteristic for the D2 properties. A production straight razor profile of the thin blade.
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Some of this is out there but rare. I have not tried to get a super thin blade from it:
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Straight razors are fun to make because they are simple like a kiridashi:
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Your friend made a huge mistake using D2. It's going to have a very limited shelf life as no one will be able to hone it properly once it does get dull. It'll take a long time before that happens. But on a tool designed for shaving, it'll be useless in less time.
Good luck to anyone without a massive amount of resharpening skill, knowledge, and equipment. Only individual I've known who could pull it off was a dentist with access to an actual laser sharpener.
Magnacut or Vanax superclean would make fine razors, but you would want to run MC up to 65 or so. Less worry about lateral stress or impact damage on a razor, but would retain the edge-holding and corrosion resistance. AEB-L and RWL34 would likely be easier to source, and cheaper.
A simple tool steel like Rex 45 or Cruwear would do well too, but would have to be looked after more closely, since it isnt stainless (although Cruwear would fair about as well as D2 in that particular dept).
Not sure that there's not some confusion here. I don't make knives, (maybe one day!) but I do a lot of sharpening, especially with so-called 'super steels'. I like D2 very much, and think it is a very underrated knife steel these days. It sharpens excellently, and I have had little trouble with it even on full rebevels and reworks on knives whose spine was sharper than their edge…Are you sure we're both talking about D2?
Classic premium D2 is a Tool steel.
It's not even about using right techniques with conventional abrasives.
That's like saying you can win a Nascar race in a 1990s Economy sedan with a 4-cylinder engine barely pumping out 100hp, if you just know the right driving technique. Never going to happen. Stropping an already mostly sharp D2 blade is one thing. I'm talking taking a completely dull D2 blade and getting it back to hair-popping sharpness. That is simply not happening with conventional abrasives. Not with D2.