Dive switches

[clint357]

I just made my first dive light using a single P7 and external battery pack....blah,blah,blah, I'll post pics later. I used a toggle switch with a waterproof boot but it just doesn't seem reliable for some reason. What are the best switches to use on dive lights. The smaller, the better for my application.

 

[Packhorse]

Reed switches are my preference.

 

[clint357]

Reed switches are my preference.

What type of setup do you prefer, or in what manner do you move the magnet over the switch?

 

[steve6690]

If you're set on a toggle switch, I use Salvo switches & boots and they are quite robust. If you can use a reed switch though, the benefits are obvious. I'd use a reed switch wherever I could.

 

[wes_wall]

Reed switch with a solid state relay is the way to go.

What do you call people who use prop@#@!$%^ for birth control?

Parents

Think about your little rubber doohickey on the toggle switch. It is not a question of 'if' but when it will fail. I know, they say "you should replace them on a regular basis." Define "regular." There is too much at risk to to play around with it. Moreover, I am an electrical buffoon. If I can make the reed switch work, you can too.

I think the trick is making the trigger (the outside part) lock in the proper position, and not flop around. I use a stainless ball and detent plunger arrangement with the detent in the canister lid. This requires no penetration of the canister, and no possibility of a leak.

 

[DM51]

There have been one or two threads mentioning Hall Effect switches.

Here also is a wikipedia entry.

 

[jtivat]

Reed switch with a solid state relay is the way to go.

What do you call people who use prop@#@!$%^ for birth control?

Parents

Think about your little rubber doohickey on the toggle switch. It is not a question of 'if' but when it will fail. I know, they say "you should replace them on a regular basis." Define "regular." There is too much at risk to to play around with it. Moreover, I am an electrical buffoon. If I can make the reed switch work, you can too.

I think the trick is making the trigger (the outside part) lock in the proper position, and not flop around. I use a stainless ball and detent plunger arrangement with the detent in the canister lid. This requires no penetration of the canister, and no possibility of a leak.

None of the large can light makers are using them there must be a reason??

 

[wes_wall]

There is s very good reason the dive light manufacturers don't use reed switches: money.

These things are expensive, and for the most part were cobbled together by folks like us who want something now. A reed switch requires real technology which takes time. Anyway, when the light floods, who would a 'normal person' (folks who are not like the members of CPF) send it to for rebuilding? Do you think they rebuild it for free? I certainly wouldn't.

Look at the European manufacturers: Harteberger for example, what type of switch do they use? What about OxyCheq? (even though they are an American company their Dive lights are imported from (i think) Czheckoslovakia.

How about Greenforce? IMHO GF has the best solution: eliminate the switch altogether.

On top of all these good reasons, after the battery gives up, most divers are already looking for the next great thing.

So, yes they do have a reason, several in fact.

 

[jtivat]

There is s very good reason the dive light manufacturers don't use reed switches: money.

These things are expensive, and for the most part were cobbled together by folks like us who want something now. A reed switch requires real technology which takes time. Anyway, when the light floods, who would a 'normal person' (folks who are not like the members of CPF) send it to for rebuilding? Do you think they rebuild it for free? I certainly wouldn't.

Look at the European manufacturers: Harteberger for example, what type of switch do they use? What about OxyCheq? (even though they are an American company their Dive lights are imported from (i think) Czheckoslovakia.

How about Greenforce? IMHO GF has the best solution: eliminate the switch altogether.

On top of all these good reasons, after the battery gives up, most divers are already looking for the next great thing.

So, yes they do have a reason, several in fact.

Ok we are talking lights that cost between $500 and $2000 dollars. How much are reed switches?

This is a quote from Carl the owner of Sartek.
"Hi,
Reed switches have a tendency to become magnetized and will stick after time. The current required by an HID would cause you to use a fairly large reed switch, unless you are using a relay...which complicates matters. Larger reed switches need more magnetic field to actuate, so a larger magnet or thinner wall. Our rotary switches are double "O" ring sealed and have not had a seal leak for all the years we have been making them. Our switches are rated for over 1 million cycles and for 5 to 10 amps depending on the model.
Regards, Carl "

 

[jtivat]

Also both Sartek and Salvo stand behind there products and I have seen both repair lights for free when it was clearly diver error tat caused the problem. I have heard the same about Halcyon

 

[wes_wall]

BTW: I am loving this debate! IT is exhillarating.

I believe the point is for the light NOT to fail, not service after the failure. Although it is great to hear that those two provide excellent customer service. I actually thought good customer service was dead; apparently not true at Halcyon and Salvo.

However from a strict engineering standpoint, if it can happen it will. If there is no penetration in the head or housing it will not leak. If there is an opening with 12 o-rings there is still a possibility that it will leak eventually. ( I know I am getting ridiculous, but I am pretty stubborn about making a point....ok just stubborn in general.)

Anyway the best solution IMHO is no switch at all.

In industry reed switches -with a solid state relay- and/or Hall effect sensors are used extensively in highly un-defeat-able safety interlocks where if someone opens this door you will be injured, and maybe killed.

The reed switch itself cannot take the kind of currents we use today. The old Darrell-Allen (big yellow clunker) used a large one. I have a vintage Darrell-Allen light, just for a museum piece, and have never used it as it would take some work to get it going, but it is cool looking. Mine is neatly beaten up, but in very good condition for a 30+ year old thing that is well used.

Anyway, I really enjoy this debate. I think the bottom line is:
listen to everybody's opinion then do what ever you want. I think if I were building another one for me, I would go ahead with the reed with solid state relay, but if I were building one for you I would ask what you want.

I'd say go for it, carry a back up, no matter what switch you choose. The fun for me is trying different things. If you made it once, you can make it again. If it was ever made, it can be improved upon until it is perfect.

Please post pictures when you get something done.
Here are pictures of mine.
http://picasaweb.google.com/wes.newperspectivesinc/LEDDivelights#

 

[Packhorse]

The parts I use in my reed/mostfet switches cost me less than a waterproof toggle switch.
They do require a lot more work to implement mind you.

 

[gav6280]

The parts I use in my reed/mostfet switches cost me less than a waterproof toggle switch.
They do require a lot more work to implement mind you.

What's actually involved?

 

[Phaethon]

Any online links to dive switch suppliers???
Thanks!

 

[jspeybro]

did you have any particular switch in mind?

I think most of the options are just standard electronic components that can be ordered in about any electronics shop or online website like Farnell. In case of a toggle switch you'll need the rubber booth but they usually have these too.

so far I've seen mostly toggle switches, reed switches and twist-to-make-contact systems.

Johan

 

[Phaethon]

I was thinking about magnetic switches or sealed roatary switches with o-rings.... I can only find ip68 ones , not diving specific. Any links?

 

[H20doctor]

Ive used Glass Reed switches all the time.... simple and cheap... from 2.00 to 6.00 american ... just put a rare earth magnet in your dry glove and hold youre light and it comes on... or put it into a goodman handle..
http://www.73.com/a/0612.shtml
Nothing wrong with a Rubber boot either ... still works great

 

[Katolix]

I was thinking about magnetic switches or sealed roatary switches with o-rings....

This is something I was thinking about. A roatary switch with o-ring could use either magnet with reed switch or knob switch inside. No out-of-box solutions found so far. Trying to design it from scratch.

 

[Umibuta]

I am wondering why there is no mention of piezo switches? I am new to DIY by the way. Is it difficult to implement or is it the cost that the drawback?

 

[Packhorse]

I have never used Piezos before.
They do cost more and there is more to the circuit when using them.
Also when using multi mode drivers the piezos may not be able to select the various modes.