DIY CREE XRE led strip

pel4

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Jan 5, 2009
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i have a few bare XRE that i would like to mount on an aluminum strip (heatsink)..there would be 5 LEDs on a 20" strip..
ideas are very much welcome.. and i dont have any advance equipment to help ease the process..:D
 
I don't understand what exactly you need help on.
Assuming it's in mounting the emitters: get some thermal epoxy and use that. If you want to eventually be able to pull the leds off the strip, mix the epoxy with normal thermal goop to reduce its bonding power.
Otherwise, if you have the Crees on stars with mounting holes, you can drill holes in the strip and use screws. Do remember the thermal goop though, it's important for good heatsinking.
 
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here's a sample of what i want to create:
mcpcb_asm.gif

i dont know where i can acquire MCPCBs here in our country, we only have normal PCBs.. i dont know if the normal PCB would be able to conduct heat to the heatsink..
 
I use these for my truck & camping

lightbar_01.jpg


The top one is one side of reversing light. The next two are flood bars for cooking etc. The emitters are on stars.

eng hoe
 
Who sells such a LED strip?

I found it here.

The LEDtech strip is much cheaper, but are the pads already connected so that all LEDs are in series, requiring to solder only the two power supply wires at the ends?
 
I found it here.

The LEDtech strip is much cheaper, but are the pads already connected so that all LEDs are in series, requiring to solder only the two power supply wires at the ends?

yes it looks like that strip is set up so that there are 6 led's in series.

I would go with just mounting the led's on stars and then thermally pasting them onto a aluminum bar like was shown above....

I did that to 9 led's on a square aluminum tube for my fish tank lighting, and it worked out rather well!
 
Mount the leds directly on the heatsink and use wire to connect them.
I agree with this, I'm not sure why you would want to add a star between your LED and the heatsink. I use two hair thin pieces of CAPTON tape placed on the bottom of the emmiter (to keep the base from touching and shorting on the heatsink) and then just thermal glue/epoxy the emitters to the heatsink. You can also clip/grind the corners of the emitter to break the connection to the bottom and do without the tape/spacer.
 
WOK,
where did you find the aluminum I-beams?
Also, what are you using for a current limiter? I'm a newbie to the whole LED thing and am trying to get some 465 and 420 nm LEDs for a salt water aquarium setup. I like your design and would like to duplicate.. Any info would be appreciated.
Thx
 
hoaglanddiver

The aluminium came from Capral. Uhlrich is another supplier. They are U channels - not I profile.
The center unit uses a Luxdrive 4015 boost driver [350ma]. The others are DD. I run off the car battery.
In the bottom strip I do not need maximum output in this application as it attracts night insects :( to my campsite.
The top unit is bolted onto the truck chassis & runs @ 13V8.
You will need to protect the aluminium very well with a salty environment [not sure if the OEM anodising is good enough...especially the cut ends]
You may be better off looking @ audio amplifier heatsinks which are available in lengths...they have thermal rating data which would take out the guesswork in your design.

eng hoe
 
Couldn't you just use leds that you get on strips of ribbon?

A used them in my golf and they work a charm u need to ask them for the 12v driver though which doesn't seem to be on there website
Heres ther website LED Tape

Regards Joe

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