Dropin for 9P with 2xAA

[malamalama]

Read on another thread that it was possible to put 2xAA in a SF 9P and this got me interested. Is it as simple as just dropping in the 2xAA or do you need a special carrier/holder/tube? What about eneloops?

Also looking to put in a Malkoff dropin. When I was originally looking at a 6P, I was leaning towards a M60WLF. Then I read someone put in a M30 size instead of a M60. How much less light output do you get with a M30 running on 2xAA vs a M60? Runtime is not as important as light output, but is it double? Should I lean towards a M30 or a M60. Not really looking for throw but rather a wall of light. Thanks.

 

[allburger]

I would run an M30 if I were you. The input voltage is between 1 and 5.5v. With 2 eneloops you are going to be at 2.4-2.6v roughly. At 3v you are going to get 160 lumens.

I am not sure about shimming the batteries into the tube but i would take your flashlight and batteries to the local home depot, lowes, or menards and start checking. If i had to guess, i would say that 1/2" cpvc would do the trick. Simply a guess though.

 

[mdocod]

2x eneloop = ~4.8WH
2x LiCo 17500s = ~8.1WH

*just sayin*

------

For 2 AAs, you'll want a module that is boost regulated, an M60 wouldn't even light up really. The M30 will run at a reduced output from the norm but will make some useful light.

Best results would be achieved via purchasing a D26 module that doesn't have any guts installed, and installing a boost regulator designed for 1AA-2AA platforms and a good bin LED.

-Eric

 

[Rat6P]

I run an m30 and a lumensfactory selected tint 4.2v, both in 2AA format. They work beautifully. Different type beams though. M30 is a good mix of throw and flood, LF throws further than m30.

 

[Kestrel]

Not really looking for throw but rather a wall of light.

Sounds like the M30F is your speed - however you might want more lumens for a good flood, the ~120 lumens you'll get from 2xAA will be a stretch IMO. I've run the M30 from 2xAA and the performance with NiMH is adequate, with great runtime, ~two hours until a substantial drop in output. Output from 2xAA alkaline will begin to drop off after ~1hr, but the decline will be slower, giving you many hours with usable light.

+1 on 2x17500 / M60 as Mdocod suggested. 240 lumens for 1h 45 minutes, then an abrupt shutoff when the low-voltage protection circuits kick in. Either way, it sounds like you want the flood versions, M30F or M60F.

 

[NotRegulated]

I personnally want to retain the ability to use 3 123's or 2 17500's and use AA's in a pinch. I have found that adding an Surefire A14 extension will allow you to add a third AA. The 3 AA's power the LED much more effectively.

 

[conan1911]

wow, just when I think I know everything.......I really need to pay more attention.

 

[Kestrel]

For a cell-diameter spacer, I've used the corrugated cardboard from Starbucks cup insulators in a SF C3 / M30 / 2xAA. Lightweight, zero rattle / no noise, rolls easily, doesn't crease, and will absorb the :green: if the alkaline cells leak...

 

[GreyShark]

I have gotten good results with an M60LL on 2x AA. Actually I have a thread in the LED forum going with my crude runtime test results. Even though it isn't as bright as an M30 I like this setup better because it can run on a variety of rechargeables, CR123 primaries or AA's which makes it excellent for survival/disaster preparedness or just plain old scrounging and the output is much higher than an M60 on 2x AA. Aside from a little rattling AA's work fine in a 3x CR123 host without a spacer. I've even smacked mine to try to induce a contact failure but the light never cut out. A spacer isn't a bad idea though, just to be a little more professional.

As Kestrel noted an M30F would probably be the best/easiest solution for a relatively bright floody light that will run on 2x AA. I don't see running these drop in's on AA's as a quest for brightness though. To me the point is multi-cell compatibility. CR123's and rechargeables are awesome when you can find them but AA's are available pretty much anywhere in the world, and cheap!

 

[Gunner12]

If you want to use 2 AA and have a floody beam, the M30F as a previous poster has pointed out would be a good choice.

 

[sappyg]

this is cool.... i had previously popped in an LF H0-4 with 2 aa's just to see if it would work... as pointed out by another, incan may not be wise. i just now dropped in an m60LF and WOW... near as i can guess it looks like about the one lumen range but it's hard to tell. the NT at about 1 L looks like a throw beam compaired to the m60LF. it has way more of a spot.
i've been trying to decide on my next malkoff and this is pushing me toward a WLF.

 

[steveG]

Anyone here ever use the stock P60L with 2 AA batteries?

 

[GreyShark]

Yes. A stock SureFire P60L on 2x AA puts out about as much light as an M60 on 2x AA's. That is to say it's usable but outshined by the first 8 hours of the M60LL on 2x AA.

 

[hyperloop]

why not try 2x14500 instead?

 

[Kestrel]

2x eneloop = ~4.8WH
2x LiCo 17500s = ~8.1WH

why not try 2x14500 instead?

The best LiIon setup would be 2x17500 as mdocod posted. However I can see the attraction of 2xEneloop: common form factor, bombproof, graceful decline, etc.

 

[etc]

I tried M30 with both 3xAA and 2xAA configurations. I like 3xAA better but admittedly 2xAA is much more suitable for EDC, it's so much shorter. OTOH, 3xAA is brighter and in a dedicated FiveMega body much slimmer.

M60LL (Low-Low) is apparently better suited for the 2xAA configuration, IMO as it can run on both 3x123 and 2xAA and also on Li-IOn cells such as 2x18500 in a Surefire 9P or an 18mm 9P clone. That's some choice. M60LL will be my next purchase as the ultimate TSHTF light (IMO anyway)