Dropin for 9P with 2xAA

malamalama

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
94
Location
Oahu, HI
Read on another thread that it was possible to put 2xAA in a SF 9P and this got me interested. Is it as simple as just dropping in the 2xAA or do you need a special carrier/holder/tube? What about eneloops?

Also looking to put in a Malkoff dropin. When I was originally looking at a 6P, I was leaning towards a M60WLF. Then I read someone put in a M30 size instead of a M60. How much less light output do you get with a M30 running on 2xAA vs a M60? Runtime is not as important as light output, but is it double? Should I lean towards a M30 or a M60. Not really looking for throw but rather a wall of light. Thanks.
 

allburger

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2008
Messages
564
Location
Mid Michigan
I would run an M30 if I were you. The input voltage is between 1 and 5.5v. With 2 eneloops you are going to be at 2.4-2.6v roughly. At 3v you are going to get 160 lumens.

I am not sure about shimming the batteries into the tube but i would take your flashlight and batteries to the local home depot, lowes, or menards and start checking. If i had to guess, i would say that 1/2" cpvc would do the trick. Simply a guess though.
 

mdocod

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
7,544
Location
COLORado spRINGs
2x eneloop = ~4.8WH
2x LiCo 17500s = ~8.1WH

*just sayin* :)

------

For 2 AAs, you'll want a module that is boost regulated, an M60 wouldn't even light up really. The M30 will run at a reduced output from the norm but will make some useful light.

Best results would be achieved via purchasing a D26 module that doesn't have any guts installed, and installing a boost regulator designed for 1AA-2AA platforms and a good bin LED.

-Eric
 

Rat6P

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
319
I run an m30 and a lumensfactory selected tint 4.2v, both in 2AA format. They work beautifully. Different type beams though. M30 is a good mix of throw and flood, LF throws further than m30.
 

Kestrel

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
7,117
Location
Willamette Valley, OR
Not really looking for throw but rather a wall of light.
Sounds like the M30F is your speed - however you might want more lumens for a good flood, the ~120 lumens you'll get from 2xAA will be a stretch IMO. I've run the M30 from 2xAA and the performance with NiMH is adequate, with great runtime, ~two hours until a substantial drop in output. Output from 2xAA alkaline will begin to drop off after ~1hr, but the decline will be slower, giving you many hours with usable light.

+1 on 2x17500 / M60 as Mdocod suggested. 240 lumens for 1h 45 minutes, then an abrupt shutoff when the low-voltage protection circuits kick in. Either way, it sounds like you want the flood versions, M30F or M60F.
 
Last edited:

NotRegulated

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2004
Messages
1,355
I personnally want to retain the ability to use 3 123's or 2 17500's and use AA's in a pinch. I have found that adding an Surefire A14 extension will allow you to add a third AA. The 3 AA's power the LED much more effectively.
 

Kestrel

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
7,117
Location
Willamette Valley, OR
For a cell-diameter spacer, I've used the corrugated cardboard from Starbucks cup insulators in a SF C3 / M30 / 2xAA. Lightweight, zero rattle / no noise, rolls easily, doesn't crease, and will absorb the :green: if the alkaline cells leak...
 

GreyShark

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
359
I have gotten good results with an M60LL on 2x AA. Actually I have a thread in the LED forum going with my crude runtime test results. Even though it isn't as bright as an M30 I like this setup better because it can run on a variety of rechargeables, CR123 primaries or AA's which makes it excellent for survival/disaster preparedness or just plain old scrounging and the output is much higher than an M60 on 2x AA. Aside from a little rattling AA's work fine in a 3x CR123 host without a spacer. I've even smacked mine to try to induce a contact failure but the light never cut out. A spacer isn't a bad idea though, just to be a little more professional.

As Kestrel noted an M30F would probably be the best/easiest solution for a relatively bright floody light that will run on 2x AA. I don't see running these drop in's on AA's as a quest for brightness though. To me the point is multi-cell compatibility. CR123's and rechargeables are awesome when you can find them but AA's are available pretty much anywhere in the world, and cheap!
 

Gunner12

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2006
Messages
10,063
Location
Bay Area, CA
If you want to use 2 AA and have a floody beam, the M30F as a previous poster has pointed out would be a good choice.
 

sappyg

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
Messages
815
Location
South Carolina
this is cool.... i had previously popped in an LF H0-4 with 2 aa's just to see if it would work... as pointed out by another, incan may not be wise. i just now dropped in an m60LF and WOW... near as i can guess it looks like about the one lumen range but it's hard to tell. the NT at about 1 L looks like a throw beam compaired to the m60LF. it has way more of a spot.
i've been trying to decide on my next malkoff and this is pushing me toward a WLF.
 

GreyShark

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
359
Yes. A stock SureFire P60L on 2x AA puts out about as much light as an M60 on 2x AA's. That is to say it's usable but outshined by the first 8 hours of the M60LL on 2x AA.
 

etc

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
5,533
Location
Northern Virginia
I tried M30 with both 3xAA and 2xAA configurations. I like 3xAA better but admittedly 2xAA is much more suitable for EDC, it's so much shorter. OTOH, 3xAA is brighter and in a dedicated FiveMega body much slimmer.

M60LL (Low-Low) is apparently better suited for the 2xAA configuration, IMO as it can run on both 3x123 and 2xAA and also on Li-IOn cells such as 2x18500 in a Surefire 9P or an 18mm 9P clone. That's some choice. M60LL will be my next purchase as the ultimate TSHTF light (IMO anyway)
 
Top