Drewfus2101
Enlightened
I was trying to update my other thread, and got an error and now I can't even find that thread. So I'll just have to make this post here and maybe that thread will come back....
So I ran a few more tests tonight. Setup was pretty much the same. Bench top power supply with adjustable voltage and current. I used a fan again to keep the drop-in cool for more accurate readings.
Before I put in all of the work of soldering on extra leads to measure voltage and current at the LED I decided to just power the drop-in off my power supply and measure the voltage and current going in. My gut instinct was that the power going in was going to pretty much stay the same. I wanted to find out first if that was true. Here is the graph:
Once I saw that the amount of power going in never changed, I knew that there was no way the voltage or current at the emitter was going up. For either of them to go up and the power going in to stay the same that would mean that the driver efficiency would actually have to go up! And efficiency didn't change since it is just power out divided by power in. That usually doesn't happen in this type of driver at higher voltages.
Test two was to hold the drop-in in a clamp, with the reflector screwed on, and power it measuring the lux. This is another easy way to check and see if it really is brighter at 18V or 4V. You can see my results above.
Looks like I was correct from the beginning, although it really was just an assumption based on a trend. So for you guys who are busting your butts to feed it 18V, you might want to rethink it. Its not going to get you anywhere.
So I ran a few more tests tonight. Setup was pretty much the same. Bench top power supply with adjustable voltage and current. I used a fan again to keep the drop-in cool for more accurate readings.
Before I put in all of the work of soldering on extra leads to measure voltage and current at the LED I decided to just power the drop-in off my power supply and measure the voltage and current going in. My gut instinct was that the power going in was going to pretty much stay the same. I wanted to find out first if that was true. Here is the graph:

Once I saw that the amount of power going in never changed, I knew that there was no way the voltage or current at the emitter was going up. For either of them to go up and the power going in to stay the same that would mean that the driver efficiency would actually have to go up! And efficiency didn't change since it is just power out divided by power in. That usually doesn't happen in this type of driver at higher voltages.
Test two was to hold the drop-in in a clamp, with the reflector screwed on, and power it measuring the lux. This is another easy way to check and see if it really is brighter at 18V or 4V. You can see my results above.
Looks like I was correct from the beginning, although it really was just an assumption based on a trend. So for you guys who are busting your butts to feed it 18V, you might want to rethink it. Its not going to get you anywhere.
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