Dyno-Batt: A portable power supply system for dyno hubs

ktronik

Enlightened
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Oct 12, 2003
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779
Location
Australia
Hi All,

The Dyno-Batt:

A portable power supply system for the dynamo hub.

We start with a 'martin' 'series cap' config, using the high ripple caps, 3A Sk diodes & a 0.047F super cap (2) for smoothing cap. A simple & proven system for powering, from hub dynamo, up to 12.4w into 3 series LED's... simply the brightest dyno LED system around.

To this we add a dedicated trickle charging circuit (Martin again) for the supercap power supply (4 / 55F, 2.5v, series wired). This makes sure their is power to the main LED from the very first second, even if the main capbattery bank is empty.

Once the capbattery is full, power is then returned to the main LEDs & the capbattery stays topped up.

It now has a bflex regulated output.


OUTPUT SIDE:

dynobatt.jpg



Here we can see the input (dyno) & output (dyno-minT or fixed lighting)

The 3 switches are:

Main LED power (from dyno to 3 LEDs), On / Off, Capbattery charge, On / Off
Capbattery power, Full / off / Low
MON on, bflex output

From this I can:
Charge & RUN main LEDs
RUN main LED's (only)
RUN main LEDs (or fixed lighting) ONLY, no dyno.

From the bflex output:
I can run a tail light or another front light (set to strobe maybe) or just as a standlite, as its controlled by the bflex you can do as you wish...run a camp light.

once I get USB power output you can even charge your GPS / ipod...

I can have the caps output track the voltage level (full out), so if I have just come off a fast down hill, the caps will be charged & I get the same brightness as if I was going fast, for a few more minutes... when slowing down for a turn then hammering off down the hill again, you don't want the, dyno powered light to dim into the corner.

The cap will then drain to follow the current Vf of the LEDs. If you are going fast again, then you are always running @ full brighness. For this system is 12.4w (Max).... so thats near 720lm!! Yep brighter than most HID's...anyway chuck this on your MTB & you can ride all night!!!

OR have it in Capbattery LOW, this gives a minimum standby power from many hours. So if I go slow or stop, the light will still be lit...at the minimum set brightness.


The dyno-batt is made to run the main LED light up to 12.4w, the 'Dyno-minT'.

dynomint.jpg



BUT was really made for 'the BIG tour'...

MK2 will have USB power output + A solar panel & handcrank input.... so you can charge your 'ipods, PDA, GPS, batterys & phones...on the move or @ the camp...+ I will wire the bflex voltage STAT LED to tell me when the caps are full...(for extra brownie points)

The dynamo can be run in the rear hub, of the BOB style trailer... as its a 16" wh, the hub get more power @ lower speed... perfect for that 'forever-lasting' power, on your next big world trip!!!

***Well I just added a switched, bflex regulated output, so bottom right switch is now a mom ON for the bflex...driven from the caps & a sep output for the 1 LED camping light...this is so I can use the caps volts down to around 3v + driver. (hey it was lying around)

The output has a switched action, so remove the plug & you cut the power to the bflex... this is to stop the bflex starting up when the LED is NOT connected... not a good thing for this driver...

I have found some thin flexible solar panels about 8v worth (4 strips).. i will attached these to the outside of the box to keep the caps topped up. Mainly for camping as a good ride will fill them up quite quickly.

I have got a 12v handcrank ready to go...

I have a spare dynamo hub for the rear of the BOB...err I have no time to go anywhere as I am too busy making new toys to go on my world trip..***

all good FUN... what ever gets me out on my bike I say!!


Enjoy

Ktronik


More LED pics.

http://cncdelite.com/

http://ktronik.com/LED.html
 
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The dynamo can be run in the rear hub, of the BOB style trailer... as its a 16" wh, the hub get more power @ lower speed... perfect for that 'forever-lasting' power, on your next big world trip!!!
Like the thought of a world trip, Kerry. Makes me kind-of restless.. Too bad have to go to work, now.
Maybe we can attach some sort of wings to the spokes of the wheel, so while I sleep at some remote kampung the trailer can be sitting in a creek where the wheel becomes a waterwheel and charges the caps overnight.
And what about adding a weight at one point of the rim, so while the trailer is being carried on a boat or on an elephant, the wheel randomly turns and charges the cap. Similar to automatic wrist watches.
 
Yes... water wheel & elephant wheel... I did not think of that... :thumbsup:


Well I just added a switched, bflex regulated output, so bottom right switch is now a mom ON for the nflex...driven from the caps & a sep output for the 1 LED camping light...this is so I can use the caps volts down to 3.6v + driver. (hey it was lying around)

The output has a switched action, so remove the plug & you cut the power to the bflex... this is to stop the nflex starting up when the LED is NOT connected... not a good thing for this driver...

I have found some thin flexible solar panels about 8v worth (4 strips).. i will attached these to the outside of the box to keep the caps topped up. Mainly for camping as a good ride will fill them up quite quickly.

I have got a 12v handcrank ready to go...

I have a spare dynamo hub for the rear of the BOB...err I have no time to go anywhere as I am too busy making new toys to go on my world trip.. :green:


K
 
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Awesome!

OK... so how did you attach the box to the frame? You aren't cheating and just holding it there, are you?

Err just a little bit...


Dyno-batt Mk2:

(left side pic input / output)

Bflex regulated output driving a front MXDL SSC P4 (UIB strobe mode)

LED low capbatt warning

Solar / charger/ 12v car, input for the capbattery charging

dynobattmk2.jpg


barmintduo.jpg



:thumbsup:

K
 
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