E2D & FM E2e socket problem ***link to video of problem***

weed099

Newly Enlightened
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Sep 2, 2007
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I bought FiveMega's E2e bipin socket for my Surefire E2D. When the socket & lamp are placed in the head, then head screwed onto the body the light won't come on. When I remove the head and just make the connection myself between the socket and body, it will light up. FM was kind enough to send me a second socket, thats not the problem. Both sockets will not light up and make connection while in the head. I've cleaned up the threads thinking something was in the way of the connection. The Surefire lamp works fine just like its suppose to. What gives? Anyone else had this problem?

Video of problem
 
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Re: E2D & FM E2e socket problem

a poor ground perhaps?

am not familiar with FiveMega's E2e bipin socket... wasn't aware there was one... what bulb/s are you using?

If I might hijack your thread a bit..:whistle:
is there something other than the lumen factory bulbs to hotwire a EDE and/or E1E using R123's,
and/or bore out and use larger cells? (I'd rather keep stock body/head/tail)
 
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Re: E2D & FM E2e socket problem

Do you have the old socket, ( white, Or the 5 gen all Silver one ( plated brass I think)

Do you have a multimeter to chech the lamp? to see if its blown?

Try taking off the tailcap, and use a bit of wire from the threads to the base of the battery while pushing down, so that the other end of the cells (+ve end) makes contact with the holder. Maybbe your cells are to short, may need to slightly adjust the spring.

Come to think of it what cells are you using?

If you are using the TL3 lamp not all protected cells can handle the 1.25A draw ( more than that on cold start up of the lamp.) you could try multi tapping the switch momentarily to see if it lights up, Or use primary CR123 cells just to see if the lamp lights brifley, although the TL3 will be underpowered.( not recomended on stiron lamp or you WILL flash it)I'm guessing you are using the TL3 lamp, and your cells protection cuircuit isnt up to the job. The Blue generic RCR123 cells that I have wond drive anything higher than a 0.8A, 9V lamp.

AW RCR123's will handle it, So will the Yellow battery station RCR123's.

The 5th gen FM E2e socket is a work of art. I love mine.
 
Re: E2D & FM E2e socket problem

I bought the socket so I could run a TL3 bulb on 2x rcr123. Here is his thread with the socket. I would think you could use a Strion bulb in your E1e with his socket. The Strion bulb runs at 3.6v I believe. I even tried a Scorpion bulb with primary cr123s to make sure it wasn't the batteries or the bulb that was the problem. I'm going to try a record or take pictures of what its doing if that would help anyone solve my problem.
 
Re: E2D & FM E2e socket problem

thanks - I just ordered 2 of 'em!

as has been suggested:
- make sure your R123 cells can handle the amp draw of these higher power bulbs (AW or yellow battery station cells)
- remove tail switch and run a wire to ground from cell to eliminate a bad/faulty switch from equation.
- make sure your getting clean ground on the bi-pin side facing/making contact with the body
- make sure the bulb isn't blown.
- make sure the bulb pins are secure in the sockets.

there nothing is left!

oh, and clean everything with some pro-gold too! :grin2:
 
Re: E2D & FM E2e socket problem

I have AW rcr123. They run the TL3 bulb just fine in my Streamlight Scorpion. The E2D functions perfect with the stock bulb & primary cr123. The TL3 bulb in FM socket will light up on those AW cells in the E2D when I take the socket out of the SF head, and make contact by hand pushing the socket onto the batteries and E2D body. But when I put the socket in the head, the connection is not made properly. Tomorrow I'm going to try to video the problem with my camera and see if I can like it here, so someone can see it and maybe understand what its doing. Lebox, thanks for your suggestions, but I believe I have eliminated those you listed as the problem.
 
Can anyone help me diagnose & fix this problem??? I now added a link to a video of the issue in the 1st post. I have 2 FM E2e sockets and need to send 1 back to FM, but I really need to solve this. I don't want to have to send both back, as I really wanted to us RCR123 with the TL3 bulb in my E2D.
 
Video is very good. Shows exactly what is happening, as far as the fault goes.

I dont have my FM socket infront of me so I dont know if this is the fault or not, but, I wonder if the bare section or aluminum inside of the E2D bezzle, where the lamp passes into the reflector is to blame.

Try pulling out the Tl3 lamp, cutting yourself a disk of paper, or post it note, & putting the paper over the top of the socket, and pushing the pins back into the socket through the paper.

I dont think the disk of bare aluminuim would short the socket, but it trying would at least rule it out.
 
Raoul thank you for your suggestion, but I just tried it and it changed nothing. Any other ideas???? This is driving me crazy.
 
The FM unit may be seating too deeply in the E2D bezel. Try either a thin paper clip or a piece of bare wire (solid core works best), cut it and mold it to fit around the base/lip of the FM unit right where the body of the E2D would make contact.

HTH :popcorn:
 
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Did you ever fix this problem.

I never had a problem with my FM socket and E2D head on vital gear body, but when I tried it in a E2D head with a balrog body ( essentially a E2D size body with no clip) I hade the same problems as you.

So I switched the cells round so that the cells nipple went towards the switch, and it works how it should.

If you havent fixed it try turning your cells around so that they are both upside down
 

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