From limited experience, I get the impression that many of the E1e's in black inadvertently came with the type II tailcaps on HAIII black bodies. It seems that the E2e's were provided with the consistent type of anodizing throughout.
E2E HA III Black still available?
- Thread starter brightnorm
- Start date
Everybody seems to believe that they could not do this sort of thing themselves.....but why not just get an anodize kit and DIY ? I would bet that whomever had the gumption to do this themselves could also clean up on anodizing requests from other members. I'm far too busy at work to be that guy right now, but I'm sure someone here would jump at the chance if they knew where to buy the kit........ http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/aluminum.htm
I'm totally NOT endorsing this site, I just found it after a quick search for such kits on ebay and it looked fairly straightforward. I'd buy it if I had the space in my garage and the time in my schedule, but just cannot squeeze either onto my plate right now. It's too bad though - I would usually jump at the chance to justufy a purchae of such an uber-cool/useful toy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
I'm totally NOT endorsing this site, I just found it after a quick search for such kits on ebay and it looked fairly straightforward. I'd buy it if I had the space in my garage and the time in my schedule, but just cannot squeeze either onto my plate right now. It's too bad though - I would usually jump at the chance to justufy a purchae of such an uber-cool/useful toy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
NeonLights
Flashlight Enthusiast
[ QUOTE ]
Mednanu said:
Everybody seems to believe that they could not do this sort of thing themselves.....but why not just get an anodize kit and DIY ?
[/ QUOTE ]
Because the DIY anodizing kits can't do HA-III, which is the finish of the E2e-BK in question here. For comparison, think Maglight = HA-II, and E2e = HA-III, big difference in durability. I had a standard E2-BK (not E2e) which also had the HA-II finish on it (like the Pentagon Defense link above is for), but sold it awhile back. I would also like to get my hands on a HA-III E2e, but that seems rather unlikely now.
-Keith
Mednanu said:
Everybody seems to believe that they could not do this sort of thing themselves.....but why not just get an anodize kit and DIY ?
[/ QUOTE ]
Because the DIY anodizing kits can't do HA-III, which is the finish of the E2e-BK in question here. For comparison, think Maglight = HA-II, and E2e = HA-III, big difference in durability. I had a standard E2-BK (not E2e) which also had the HA-II finish on it (like the Pentagon Defense link above is for), but sold it awhile back. I would also like to get my hands on a HA-III E2e, but that seems rather unlikely now.
-Keith
So clue me in here gang. I thought that anodizing was just a matter of time + current and that HA-III simply meant that the part was left in the anodizing tank an extra long time to build up a much thicker ( up to .007 in ) and hence tougher oxide layer ? I thought it just requires more voltage and time during the anodize process so that it bites deeper into the substrate material. Thanks for posting NeonLights, but please clue me in as to the differences in the process between the two ( I haven't quite found an adequate explanation that differentiates the process between normal and HA other than the voltage and temp on Google yet ).
NeonLights
Flashlight Enthusiast
I don't know a lot about it myself, just passing along what I've heard. You might have a look at this thread for a little more info on anodizing at home
-Keith
-Keith
brightnorm
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2001
- Messages
- 9,027
[ QUOTE ]
this_is_nascar said:
Pentagon Defense has the E2/Black in-stock, if you're willing to pay the outrageous price.
[/ QUOTE ]
Ray,
I have one of those. Unfortunately it's HA II.
BN
this_is_nascar said:
Pentagon Defense has the E2/Black in-stock, if you're willing to pay the outrageous price.
[/ QUOTE ]
Ray,
I have one of those. Unfortunately it's HA II.
BN
Even more a reason not to pay that asking price.
After some further links on Google, I think I've got it now. It appears that the process of 'normal' as opposed to HA-III anodizing is really the same.......only with gobs more current applied to the HA-III process. Normal anodizing can be done with the voltage and amperage output of just a car battery charger and an anodizing solution between 50 degrees F and room temperature. HA-III appears to be done at between 32 and 50 degrees F, while using between 100 and 1100+ amps depending on the equipment used !!! Now I understand why it costs so much - the freaking electricity bill alone could give you a nosebleed. Apparently, the higher voltage and all of the extra amps along with the lower solution temperature allow not only a thicker anodized layer to build up, but also allow the process to 'bite' deeper into the substrate material. The extra cost is due to all of the electricity and refrigeration needed to complete the process. Even with a bank of several car batteries you couldn't put out that many amps for a long enough time period to complete the process in your garage, hence we pay dearly for the HA-III. I feel better now that I know why - the price seems more worth it now.
A basic definition of each of the three main types of anodizing can be found at the following link: http://www.hbsequipment.com/html/plating/anodizingdata.html
A basic definition of each of the three main types of anodizing can be found at the following link: http://www.hbsequipment.com/html/plating/anodizingdata.html
kj
Enlightened
I had asked a local anodizer to strip the natural HA from Z57 and do HA again and dye it a mat black. Today I got the part back and here is the picture.
The black is actually a dark gray when compared to the body, but it's darker than the PR-T head. Also, I don't know if this follows the Type III spec. But I think it's OK /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
The black is actually a dark gray when compared to the body, but it's darker than the PR-T head. Also, I don't know if this follows the Type III spec. But I think it's OK /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
brightnorm
Flashaholic
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- Oct 13, 2001
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- 9,027
I just copy/pasted that pic into Word and lightened it for a better view. Quite lovely. Then I tried my PR on a black HA II E2 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsdown.gifvery disappointing!
Brightnorm
Brightnorm
kakster
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thats beautiful KJ. The shiny tailcaps on mine really bug me.
brightnorm
Flashaholic
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- Messages
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[ QUOTE ]
tkl said:
What is a PR-T head?
[/ QUOTE ]
It is the head shown in Kj's pic, one of two heads designed and manufactured by Don (Mcgizmo) that contain a <font color="red"> P</font>elican <font color="red"> R</font>eflector usually fitted with a 1W, LUX III or 5W LED. It is called T presumably because of its somewhat "turbohead" appearance which could also be described as resembling the letter "T".
For a better view, copy/paste the pic into Word, then lighten it and you will see shape and details very clearly. Basically it is a cut down version of Don's PM head for the purpose of saving weight, space and for a different aesthetic. The bezel retains the same diameter as the PR but since there is less mass heat dissipation is inferior to the PR.
This pic shows three PR heads
Brightnorm
tkl said:
What is a PR-T head?
[/ QUOTE ]
It is the head shown in Kj's pic, one of two heads designed and manufactured by Don (Mcgizmo) that contain a <font color="red"> P</font>elican <font color="red"> R</font>eflector usually fitted with a 1W, LUX III or 5W LED. It is called T presumably because of its somewhat "turbohead" appearance which could also be described as resembling the letter "T".
For a better view, copy/paste the pic into Word, then lighten it and you will see shape and details very clearly. Basically it is a cut down version of Don's PM head for the purpose of saving weight, space and for a different aesthetic. The bezel retains the same diameter as the PR but since there is less mass heat dissipation is inferior to the PR.
This pic shows three PR heads
Brightnorm
