Edelux dissection

[swhs]

I've not found anything like this on the web, so might be of interest:


http://www.xs4all.nl/~swhs/fiets/tests/verlichting/edelux/analyse/index_en.html

Samples (thumbnail):

 

[Illum]

interesting, a reed switch:candle:
Other than the bottom half it appears the LED is almost entirely thermally isolated

Good find

 

[Marcturus]

Courageous dissection.

Further questions arising:
What dimension, including thickness, is the glass, in case you want to take some spare plastic lens on a world tour?
Looking at the threading, the front ring gets turned counter-clockwise in order to open the lamp, correct?
I'm glad it's there for keeping the two metals apart, but was the 0.5mm thickness of the Cu-Al interface tape actually measured? If it was, maybe it gets compressed in the mounted state?
Could you simply mount an updated IQ reflector inside?

 

[BrianMc]

On the copper heatsink and thermal path to the housing:

You can look up theramal epoxies and their heat conductance is about 1% of a metal-metal contact. Air is about 2% of that. So I suspect it is the copper-aluminim contact either side of the adhesive that does 99+% of the thermal transfer to the case.

Looks like a CREE XR-E. If someone already knows the BIN and the drive current, and output, please post it here. I don't have time right now to Google MTBR Lights DIY and this forum. I suppose they presume that if you are going fast enough to get the LED into higher drive currents (more heat) the housing is being cooled very well and a bit of resistance at the copper tab isn't a big deal, and if you are slower there isn't that much heat to move.

 

[panicmechanic]

Looks like a CREE XR-E. If someone already knows the BIN and the drive current, and output, please post it here. I don't have time right now to Google MTBR Lights DIY and this forum. I suppose they presume that if you are going fast enough to get the LED into higher drive currents (more heat) the housing is being cooled very well and a bit of resistance at the copper tab isn't a big deal, and if you are slower there isn't that much heat to move.

Referring to Olaf Schutz again, who got his test light directly from Schmidt, there is a Q5 bin inside.
Output was tested to 180 lm vs. 160 for the Cyo, at a (simulated) speed of 30 km/h.
Heat was measured (presumably near the emitter) as rising to 21° C above ambient, with constant cooling of 4 km/h air speed.
Electrical values: 7.171 V, 0.337 A input, LED current not given.

Source (except for Lumen values, these are here).

 

[BrianMc]

Thanks panicmechanic I think that makes the dissection links provided by the OP swhs more valuable to those with bad memories or unfamiliar with this light.

The stepped mirror sides forcing angled output from the LED forward are easy to see in the first lens shot.

The light distribution of that family of LED's is in this post. The beam pattern it produces is the left diagram in this post.

An upgrade to an R2 is only 7%, an R3 14%, and not worth the effort. The reflector likely uses the narrow beamy output of the XR-E to full effect and a wider output from the XP-G family would likely not do well. I think there is a post reporting it is not good, maybe someone knows it. So modding requires a new XR-E like emitter.

Check out this thread also by the OP for another light with a road frinedly beam.

 

[Marcturus]

JFTR, according to Schmidt staff, all production now uses R2, WH or WG.

 

[swhs]

Courageous dissection.

Further questions arising:
What dimension, including thickness, is the glass, in case you want to take some spare plastic lens on a world tour?
Looking at the threading, the front ring gets turned counter-clockwise in order to open the lamp, correct?

It looks that way.

I'm glad it's there for keeping the two metals apart, but was the 0.5mm thickness of the Cu-Al interface tape actually measured? If it was, maybe it gets compressed in the mounted state?
Could you simply mount an updated IQ reflector inside?

Notes: I made the webpage that I linked to but I did not do the dissection. I based my page on a brief description (with pictures) of how it was done... Perhaps I can get some answers to questions from the guys who did this.

I suppose you could replace the IQ reflector, hard to be sure, but it would mean getting a new IQ Fly just to donate the reflector (assuming the IQ Fly's have the reflector with the slightly dull sides which eliminate the strange light pattern next to the light (it never bothered me though))


Regards,

Wouter