Exactly what color is the Raw NS?

[deusexaethera]

Based on which picture I'm looking at, it could be slightly gold, or very gold. Obviously it's not actually silver colored, because of the copper content, but that's fine; I just want to know if it looks like brass or not.

Also, how scratch-resistant is the finish? Anything with nickel in it is bound to be pretty hard, but I'd like a firsthand opinion.

Before anyone asks, I'd like the Raw TI, but I just can't justify spending (another) $250 on it (when I'm already waiting for my Arc 6 to arrive). Not that anything will happen until they get the blue tritium vials back in stock, but I'd like to know what I want by then.

Also, does anyone have any opinions on whether the blue or green tritium vials would look better on the Raw NS, as opposed to the Raw TI? I suppose you could say it doesn't matter since I'll only see them in the dark, but as long as I have the choice, I'd like some opinions.

 

[EngrPaul]

Looks like clean brass. Here's a picture compared to an aluminum Raw.

I have to be honest, the green trits are nice and bright, but in partial darkness they clash with the Aluminum light they are in. I prefer blue all around. Blue is in my NS lights.

The NS surface is not especially scratch resistant, but better than aluminum for sure. Definitely heavier. The Wee is light enough in NS to be worn as a pendant, and so is the Raw Al. I wouldn't wear the Raw NS, though.

Simple stainless steel powder cleaner works great to brighten it up. Actually takes away some of the yellowish color and restores it to what you see in the picture.

Not sure about the Ti yet, I'm in the same boat as you money wise... looking to make the dive sooner or later.

 

[sappyg]

that is a very representative pic of an RAW NS by EngrPaul. it does have a slight yellow patina to it that i assume will become more prominent with age. i've edc'd my RAW NS for about 3 weeks now on a lanyard and beaner clipped to my belt loop with the RAW in my pocket. it has picked up some scratches but i expect that from an edc light. this is why i chose to forgoe the trit also. if i had to choose i would choose blue 1st.... green second.
the odd thing to me is how the NS smells. it's not unplesent but it does smell a lot like coins. i hope this wears with age too. if the smell of change bothers you then definately get the AL or Ti. i would also suggest the lobster claw clasp when you place your order.

 

[deusexaethera]

Dammit, I really was hoping it would be more subdued -- just a hint of yellow, like this picture shows.

Also, is the finish raw machined, or brushed to smooth the peaks on the machining marks? I know I'm getting picky here, but when I first saw it I instantly had a mental image of what it would be like, and for some reason I'm really attached to it. I'm envisioning something similar to the finish on a forged Craftsman wrench, but with smaller bumps.

Regarding the weight, the Raw NS is rated at 1.4oz with battery, and I weighed my P1D at work and it's 1.6oz with battery, so since I think the P1D is damn near weightless, I should have no problem with the NS.

 

[sappyg]

the finish is straight up machined. machined very well i might add....
you really can't understand by pics alone how incredible the RAW is.
if i could pic any RAW i would go for the Ti but....
if you get a RAW you will not be dissapointed.... be prepared to waite if need be after you order in case something is on backorder... i want a WEE and i regret not taking advantage of the RAW WEE special.
relatively speaking the RAW may seem light weight but is does have a "dense" type heft to it in NS

 

[deusexaethera]

To be honest, I don't have much interest in the Wee. It looks nice, but as thin as it is, it's just too short. When it comes to pocket lights, the Arc AAA is still the gold standard for me -- which is why I've asked MillerMods to make me an Arc AAA Cree, when he gets done dealing with his spawn.

(I think I'm, like, 100th in line though. :thumbsdow)

Dense is good; dense and strong is the difference between a tool and a toy.

Do the threads grind on the Raw NS, like they do with aluminum? Obviously I'll grease them, but I'm curious anyway.

 

[EngrPaul]

Neither threads grind in my experience. There is a little drag on the two-stage switch.

 

[Phredd]

No, the threads don't grind. They're super smooth. I still have mine, though I don't use it since I got their new titanium, which is also smooth - much better than the old titanium, but not as smooth as the NS.

If I remember correctly, the NS arrived silver or close to it. It now has a very exquisite golden color. Not to be argumentative, but I think it's more yellow than brass. It's such a nice finish that I've resisted selling mine, but I don't think I'll keep both much longer.

Phredd

 

[deusexaethera]

I can deal with the color as long as the metal doesn't have a scrapey feel to it. I'll probably end up doing something to the finish that involves tool oil, anyway, so I shouldn't get too wrapped up in the color.

Okay, so the two-stage switch is a mechanical thing, not electronic like in a Fenix, for example? I have no idea what those look like; would you say the switch is a delicate item, or is it fairly robust?

Also, all of the Cree Q5's I have are Premiums, so I don't really know what the "regular" Q5 looks like. One of my Premium Q5's actually has a distinctly pinkish color, especially on the brighter settings, while the other two have more of a faint lime-gold color in the spill area. Is that characteristic of the cool Q5 offered in the Raw, or is it more of a cheap-fluorescent-tube green color?

I'm asking all these questions because if I'm going to drop a hundred bucks on what basically amounts to a collector's item, I want to make damn sure I like everything about it.

 

[EngrPaul]

The switch is a little pogo with a spring behind it. This contacts the tailcap first and engages the low mode. When you turn it the whole way to the PCB, high is engaged. The circuitry is simple resistors on the other side of the PCB, very dependable and efficient.

I can't speak to the tint of the cool white emitters recently. I had a Raw with standard cool white emitter before the Q5's were out, and it didn't have any particular hue.

 

[sappyg]

Okay, so the two-stage switch is a mechanical thing, not electronic like in a Fenix, for example? I have no idea what those look like; would you say the switch is a delicate item, or is it fairly robust?

Also, all of the Cree Q5's I have are Premiums, so I don't really know what the "regular" Q5 looks like. One of my Premium Q5's actually has a distinctly pinkish color, especially on the brighter settings, while the other two have more of a faint lime-gold color in the spill area. Is that characteristic of the cool Q5 offered in the Raw, or is it more of a cheap-fluorescent-tube green color?

I'm asking all these questions because if I'm going to drop a hundred bucks on what basically amounts to a collector's item, I want to make damn sure I like everything about it.

the switch is simply a twist... a very smooooth twist.... a long twist but it is the essence of simplicity.
the cool white tint of the RAW is more like an incan.... i have never seen a tint like this in any other LED. the color spectrum of mine is more like sunlight than common LED. i have a premium Q5 p2d that can not hold a candle to the RAW. no other LED that i have seen even comes close.
the RAW is more than a collectors item... it is a functional work of art! i would not hesitate to get another. if i lost it i would definately have to have another. i can not imagine not having one. not because it is exclusive (and it is), but because nothing else compares to it.
i got the 20/200 LED and think it was the right choice for me. if you get it use it. crank it up:rock:

 

[deusexaethera]

Yeah, I was pretty much set on the 20/200 myself. Just enough light to see vs. enough light to light up something down the street.

The low mode engages first, right?

 

[sappyg]

Yeah, I was pretty much set on the 20/200 myself. Just enough light to see vs. enough light to light up something down the street.

The low mode engages first, right?

yep... low mode goes 1st.... twist... twist... then high..... WOW... the RAW is not the king of throw. far from it. it's more of a flood which i like. the output is truly stunning however.

 

[MKLight]

You won't be disappointed with the Lummi lights! I originally planned on getting just a Raw NS and talked myself into the Special that included the Wee. My mom "confiscated" mine, so I ordered another Special - only the Wee's have trits...both in white (which is my preference - haven't seen the others in person). I really wanted a Ti model and ended up getting those in the Special, too. I've received the Ti Raw and am still awaiting the Ti Wee. Anyway, my preference of the Raw versus Wee...the Raw wins. It is more useful/flexible (more traditional beam, rather than flood - although the Wee can be nodded with a simple polishing of the integrated reflector)...although you could get a 25 or 50lm Wee and a 100/200lm Raw and have greater options. Lastly, the NS does have a coin scent to it. It looks very jewel-like, also. It's very dense and weighty. You will notice the weight in your hand more than a P1D. I think it's because of it's size. That's a good thing. It may be stronger than aluminum, but it can still dent if dropped. One of my Raw NSs fell off my counter (~3.5ft high) and it bent a little, but not greatly. My Ti Raw fell from the same counter (yes, dumb luck) and it still looks perfect! Overall, if you're looking for jewelry (which it doesn't seem like you are since you mentioned you will use it around oil), I would go for the NS. if you want it to be "indestructible" and want a more utilatariun (sp?) look, go for the Ti. Comparing them both, they are both mechanically the same. Either way, you will feel you got what you paid for...and that's a great thing! BTW...my preference is for the cool white, not the neutral. The cool white is a bit brighter and is my preference since I prefer LED colors to incadescent. I have them both.

Good luck on your decision!
Mike

 

[deusexaethera]

(sigh) Honestly, I want both. I'm intrigued by the unique metal used in the Raw NS, but damn if the Raw TI doesn't look awesome with blue radioluminescent locators.

What I meant about using the Raw NS around oil is that I will most likely polish the casing using rough cotton and trombone-slide oil, which considering its intended use should agree with the nickel-silver metal perfectly. Metal works and looks best when the first few molecular layers are saturated with light oil, in my opinion; the sole exception is anodized aluminum, because it has a different kind of surface coating already.

I think I like the cool-white LED too, as long as it isn't the color of cheap fluorescent lighting.

 

[MKLight]

Ahhh...in regards to what you meant about applying oil to its finish, rather than using it in oil.

The cool white LED's are extremely neutral. When comparing it to a NiteCore D10 Q5, the NiteCore looks almost fluorescent, while the Raw R2 looks slightly pink. In real world, to me, the NiteCore looks cool, while the Raw looks like clear light.

I'm not sure if Rob @ Lummi has a special that includes a Raw NS and Raw Ti, but you can always email him at [email protected] and ask. He usually gets back within hours.

Also, with comparing the NS to the Ti, as noted, the NS is definitely heavier and has a balanced, weighty feel to it. I polished mine with a light coat of SimiChrome. It feels very smooth. I can feel the machine marks with my finger nail. The threads are, I think, at 1mm and buttery smooth to twist. The Ti feels much lighter with most of the weight coming in at the middle. It almost has the feel of a high-end, balanced pen (writing instrument). I can also feel the machine marks, as well. The threads are not as wide. I think they're set to 0.5mm. At first, they were not as smooth as the NS. It had an almost gritty feel. After searching through CPF, this seems to be pretty common amount Ti twist lights. After lots of cleaning (with toothpaste/toothbrush, Deoxit - https://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=25_62, and evenutally NyoGel, as recommended by Lummi @ http://www.lighthound.com/NyoGel-Lubricant_c_127.html - I ordered teh 50gram tube), its now very smooth.

Lastly, there are a couple of good reviews at of the Q5 models below:

Wee: http://www.cpfreviews.com/Orb-Wee-NS.php

Raw: http://www.cpfreviews.com/Orb-Raw-NS.php

Good luck!
Mike

 

[crocodilo]

I got my Raw NS used, and that may explain why it's slightly darker colored than some pics here. But it's a great tone. Agree on the smell.

But what a fantastic beam, a great UI, smooth as butter threads, 100/20 circuit is very efficient, feels heavier than it is, due to the small size. Just oozes quality!

This is the light that when I get home (and dump my Surefires) slip into the pocket, everyday. Can't say enough good things about this light.


This pic doesn't do it justice. It's sitting by a custom slipjoint folder with alluminium scales and polished carbon steel blade:

 

[deusexaethera]

Definitely looks like brass to me. I was hoping for something a little less yellow, but it's not a big deal; just knowing it has nickel in it tells me it'll stand up to a few good whacks. (The gears on my mountain bike are nickel-plated, and it takes the chain years to wear through the coating.)

Thanks for the mini-comparo of the LED options; it sounds like I'll be picking up yet another Cree Q5 -- I'd hesitate to do so, but these premium LEDs are finally bright enough that in ten years it will still be a good flashlight, regardless of what's on the market then.

I'm definitely not going to buy both at once; I just spent $250 on an Arc6, I don't need to spend $450 on two more fun lights when I already have more than I need. (At first the P1D was like gold to me, but now I feel more comfortable beating it up a little since I have nicer toys on my desk. )

 

[MKLight]

The NS has a yellow tinge, but definitely does not look exactly like brass. It is much whiter, or I guess silver, in color.

As for the choice of emitter, if you buy it new, you will get an R2 in cool white, or Q3 in neutral white.

Best of luck in your choice...which seems to be a Raw NS R2?
Mike

 

[deusexaethera]

Does the R2 replace the Q5 in the Cree lineup, or is that Lummi's voluntary change in parts spec?