Fenix Anodizing

[Tachead]

A little more info guys... I opened the light about a week ago and clipped it on into the watch pocket of my jeans. By the end of the day it had a bunch of chips, down to bare aluminum, around the sharp edges or the lobes that protect the tail switch. Other then taking my keys out of my pocket(keys are made of rather soft brass) nothing touched the light. This is my first Fenix light and my first light since getting back into the hobby so my comparisons are with other older lights I have and other Type III anodized aluminum items I collect(knives, firearms, motorcycles, mountain bikes, rock climbing gear, exc.). They are all much stronger and I could probably grind my keys on them and it would leave brass on them but not touch/scratch the finish. This is how true Type III should be. I am pretty sure Fenix uses type II or a very poor quality Type III that would never meet NA standards. Now, my lights are used so scratches will happen but, after only hours of use, its hard not to wonder about the quality. I decided to try a Fenix as I have heard good things about them. But, so far I am not impressed overall. While it is very nicely machined, has a nice UI, is extremely bright for its size, and generally appears to be well built, it has weak(possibly fake Type III) anodizing and a very purplish tint(more so then I have ever seen from a CW LED). I have to say, this might be my last Fenix due to these issues. I hope my on route Eagletac D25A(XM-L2 T6 NW) is better then this or, I might have to try and stomach the price of an HDS, Surefire, exc. At least I have a good idea now of what brands have what finishes(Thanks guys, especially thedoc007 for the awesome list:thumbsup.

 

[ForrestChump]

A little more info guys... I opened the light about a week ago and clipped it on into the watch pocket of my jeans. By the end of the day it had a bunch of chips, down to bare aluminum, around the sharp edges or the lobes that protect the tail switch. Other then taking my keys out of my pocket(keys are made of rather soft brass) nothing touched the light. This is my first Fenix light and my first light since getting back into the hobby so my comparisons are with other older lights I have and other Type III anodized aluminum items I collect(knives, firearms, motorcycles, mountain bikes, rock climbing gear, exc.). They are all much stronger and I could probably grind my keys on them and it would leave brass on them but not touch/scratch the finish. This is how true Type III should be. I am pretty sure Fenix uses type II or a very poor quality Type III that would never meet NA standards. Now, my lights are used so scratches will happen but, after only hours of use, its hard not to wonder about the quality. I decided to try a Fenix as I have heard good things about them. But, so far I am not impressed overall. While it is very nicely machined, has a nice UI, is extremely bright for its size, and generally appears to be well built, it has weak(possibly fake Type III) anodizing and a very purplish tint(more so then I have ever seen from a CW LED). I have to say, this might be my last Fenix due to these issues. I hope my on route Eagletac D25A(XM-L2 T6 NW) is better then this or, I might have to try and stomach the price of an HDS, Surefire, exc. At least I have a good idea now of what brands have what finishes(Thanks guys, especially thedoc007 for the awesome list:thumbsup.

That may be a good place to start if the finish really bugs you. Not to mention the lights are awesome. I have to say though, the HDS appears to be the hardest anodizing I've come across. When it's mentioned that Aluminum oxide is second hardest to diamond, the first thing I think of is my HDS. In terms of anodizing it would only be fair to also mention Elzetta. I do not have first hand experience on how they wear with time, but as far as appearance, I don't think anyone has done it better.

 

[twl]

If you move away from Chinese lights for the anodizing finish, you will then find out that everything else is much better too. I left Chinese light behind a long time ago. I only buy them for keychain lights now, like the Nitecore Tube or Fenix EO1.

 

[Tachead]

If you move away from Chinese lights for the anodizing finish, you will then find out that everything else is much better too. I left Chinese light behind a long time ago. I only buy them for keychain lights now, like the Nitecore Tube or Fenix EO1.

Yeah, the problem is the price though. Sure HDS, Oveready, Surefire, exc. are better(although they often have less features) but, not 5-10 times the price better. Its the law of diminishing returns. If money were no object, I would have an Oveready Moddoolar Custom but, I can get 5-10 Nitecore, Eagletac, Fenix, Sunwayman, Olight, exc. for the price of it. And, with the way this technology progresses, my nice $500 Moddoolar will be outdated in no time. I think I would rather have new lights every 2-5 years myself and still see a huge savings. Also, I have much better things to spend that kind of cash on. After all, their just flashlights.

 

[levi333]

Sounds like you got a bad finished light, poor prep before ano.
Got my PD22UE about a week ago, has been back pocket carried next to my wallet since and still looks new, no scratches/chips.

 

[Tachead]

Yeah, its only chipping on the sharp edges, it is what it is I suppose(you get what you pay for). Could just be poor quality, soft aluminum too. Nice light other then that though. Well, not a huge fan of the purplish tint either though, it is a very cool emitter. My Eagletac D25A NW that I received yesterday is a much nicer light in every way other then the lower lumen output though imo. When Eagletac comes out with a comparable 1xCR123A light I'm pretty sure this Fenix will be given away or sold.

 

[kj2]

Yeah, its only chipping on the sharp edges, it is what it is I suppose(you get what you pay for). Could just be poor quality, soft aluminum too. Nice light other then that though. Well, not a huge fan of the purplish tint either though, it is a very cool emitter. My Eagletac D25A NW that I received yesterday is a much nicer light in every way other then the lower lumen output though imo. When Eagletac comes out with a comparable 1xCR123A light I'm pretty sure this Fenix will be given away or sold.

After I saw Elzetta's blog video about aluminum used on flashlights yesterday, I contacted Fenix on this. They told me they also use 6061-T6 aluminum, so that's the same aluminum(quality) as Elzetta uses. Chipping on sharp edges is always possible since there is less (flat)surface for the anodizing.
Difference between CW and NW is noticeable and a preference that differ betweens users.

 

[Tachead]

After I saw Elzetta's blog video about aluminum used on flashlights yesterday, I contacted Fenix on this. They told me they also use 6061-T6 aluminum, so that's the same aluminum(quality) as Elzetta uses. Chipping on sharp edges is always possible since there is less (flat)surface for the anodizing.
Difference between CW and NW is noticeable and a preference that differ betweens users.

Thats good to know although I am not sure I would take what a Chinese company told you as gospel. If it is 6061 T6 then why dont they list that as a selling feature in the description? My guess is because they dont always use the same stuff and buy what is available and cost effective at the time. 6061 and 7075 are very expensive when compared to other aluminum grades. I myself would gladdly pay the premium for 7075 if I could get it in a flashlight. Chinese companies are not bound by our laws and could tell you whatever you want to hear without any repercussions for lying.

And, yes CW vs NW is a preference thing but, the PD22UE has a very CW tint. Much cooler then average I would say(my version of the tint lottery anyway as well as many other I have read). Just figured I would mention that as if you dont like normal CW you definitely shouldnt go for the PD22UE.

 

[kj2]

True, they can tell you everything, thought about that myself too. I also checked a Surefire light, the Peacekeeper, and SF also doesn't mention (at least with that light) which type aluminum they're using.

 

[an_abstraction]

Some observations:

Real Type-III hard anodizing will create parallel striations (grain) on the aluminum. We work with outside vendors to hard anodize parts where I work, and the grain is noticeable on the mil-spec anodized parts.

With regards to Fenix lights, I've had many over the last 6 or 7 years. I've noticed the black anodized models have more of a Type-II anodizing look to them (no grain to the anodizing). Looks more like a shiny stippled layer of anodizing. It may be Type-III, but it doesn't wear like Type-III usually does in my experience.

When it comes to their older olive-colored hard anodizing, there is noticeable grain on the flats of the body. This is definitely Type-III hard anodize. It "wears" over time instead of chipping. I've dropped an olive L0P on a brick driveway by accident, enough to dent the aluminum in some spots and scrape it down the the bare metal on others. It was a hard drop and I was very impressed how the finish held up.

I recently got a special edition TK22 in Cadet Gray hard anodize, and again, there is a noticeable grain to the anodizing. No doubts in my mind this is Type-III mil-spec, and very well-done at that.

If the black Fenix lights are Type-III, it's clearly not mil-spec. I stay away from them for this reason, not that there's anything wrong with them, I just don't like black flashlights.

 

[an_abstraction]

Thinking it over a little more, hard anodizing gives more of a matte finish, unless the aluminum underneath is polished (mass produced lights are typically not polished, usually machine finished [brushed look] off the CNC machine or media-blasted). I had an original black L0P that had more of a matte finish to the anodizing, and that finish seemed to hold up better than recent Fenix offerings. I think Fenix had better anodizing in the beginning, and as they began to get popular and mass-produce a lot of different models, they changed their anodizing to in-house.

Again, if it is black hard anodize, it doesn't seem like it's done to the mil-spec standard. I could be completely wrong. The Surefire U2 I had didn't have the typical grain of hard-anodizing, but it was definitely mil-spec standards.

Also keep in mind of the anodizing thickness. Natural anodizing leaves a thicker micron layer compared to dyed hard-anodized finishes like black.

 

[kj2]

Fenix doesn't mention that their anodizing is mil-spec, only "Premium Type III hard-anodized".

 

[Hondo]

After all, their just flashlights.

Careful, pilgrim, them's fightin' words around these parts.

 

[Tachead]

Careful, pilgrim, them's fightin' words around these parts.

Lol, right. I am gonna get myself strobed lol.

 

[ForrestChump]

Some observations:

Real Type-III hard anodizing will create parallel striations (grain) on the aluminum. We work with outside vendors to hard anodize parts where I work, and the grain is noticeable on the mil-spec anodized parts.

With regards to Fenix lights, I've had many over the last 6 or 7 years. I've noticed the black anodized models have more of a Type-II anodizing look to them (no grain to the anodizing). Looks more like a shiny stippled layer of anodizing. It may be Type-III, but it doesn't wear like Type-III usually does in my experience.

When it comes to their older olive-colored hard anodizing, there is noticeable grain on the flats of the body. This is definitely Type-III hard anodize. It "wears" over time instead of chipping. I've dropped an olive L0P on a brick driveway by accident, enough to dent the aluminum in some spots and scrape it down the the bare metal on others. It was a hard drop and I was very impressed how the finish held up.

I recently got a special edition TK22 in Cadet Gray hard anodize, and again, there is a noticeable grain to the anodizing. No doubts in my mind this is Type-III mil-spec, and very well-done at that.

If the black Fenix lights are Type-III, it's clearly not mil-spec. I stay away from them for this reason, not that there's anything wrong with them, I just don't like black flashlights.

This is interesting. I notice this grain on all Surefires I have seen, some have more grain than others. No doubt the finish is Type III. That said, I only handled one for a brief time but the Elzettas I did not notice any grain. They are unmatched in anodizing aesthetics IMO. Maybe an EZ owner can jump in here on the grain.

 

[Kaban]

Surefire, Elzetta, and Armytek are top notch. If I could pick one type, though, it would definitely be Armytek. The matte finish not only looks nice, but seems to enhance grip, even when wet.

I agree with this completely. Actually SF, Elzetta, and Armytek happen to be my favorite brands at the moment and I can attest to their anodizing being top notch. I have maybe 20 lights total in my personal collection and all of them have awesome anodizing that is very chip resistant. Armytek is amazing. Almost feels rubberized.