Fenix E0 inductor repair - part needed

[zipplet]

Hi,

Today I managed to remove the innards from the head on my non-working Fenix E0. Yes, I could have sent it off to fenix store but that wouldn't be fair, they already replaced my L2D-CE head which I fried myself, for free (which was very generous of 4sevens). The damage on the E0 looks like it probably came from dropping or bashing the light - I did drop my keys once from about a foot onto the ground but it still worked right after I did.

The surface mount inductor has come away from it's metal pads - the pads have completely come off the inductor and are still soldered to the PCB.

My question is - what options do I have? Is there a part I can solder in place to fix this (preferably from Rapid Electronics - http://www.rapidonline.com/ ).

Other than that, the thing looks fine, so replacing that should fix it. I'd very much like to fix it as the E0 is a very nice long running AAA light.

 

[Probedude]

Hi,

Today I managed to remove the innards from the head on my non-working Fenix E0. Yes, I could have sent it off to fenix store but that wouldn't be fair, they already replaced my L2D-CE head which I fried myself, for free (which was very generous of 4sevens). The damage on the E0 looks like it probably came from dropping or bashing the light - I did drop my keys once from about a foot onto the ground but it still worked right after I did.

The surface mount inductor has come away from it's metal pads - the pads have completely come off the inductor and are still soldered to the PCB.

My question is - what options do I have? Is there a part I can solder in place to fix this (preferably from Rapid Electronics - http://www.rapidonline.com/ ).

Other than that, the thing looks fine, so replacing that should fix it. I'd very much like to fix it as the E0 is a very nice long running AAA light.

Please post a picture of the inductor top which should have numbers telling what the value of this part is.
Also the bottom of the inductor and the pads on the pcb so I can see what tore.

 

[Marduke]

I suggest you exercise Fenix's lifetime warranty.

 

[zipplet]

I suggest you exercise Fenix's lifetime warranty.

Not an option because I already opened the head (I didn't damage it by doing this, but it's against the warranty). Also, the warranty isn't free - you pay the cost of parts and shipping, which would come to >$19.99 (the value of the light) so it's not worthwhile.

I'll take some pictures but the inductor seems to have no markings. I have a digicam with a good macro mode.

 

[Marduke]

Not an option because I already opened the head (I didn't damage it by doing this, but it's against the warranty). Also, the warranty isn't free - you pay the cost of parts and shipping, which would come to >$19.99 (the value of the light) so it's not worthwhile.

I'll take some pictures but the inductor seems to have no markings. I have a digicam with a good macro mode.

I've never actually seen them charge for warranty replacement yet. Contact a dealer and arrange replacement though them. you might be able to get them to send you just the pill also. It doesn't hurt to ask.

 

[zipplet]

Hmm, didn't think of asking for a replacement pill. Might give that a go if I can't sort this myself.

The pics as requested:

 

[Probedude]

You're right, I don't see any markings on that.
The good news is that you can rewind that inductor yourself.

Count the number of turns when you unwind it, go find some enameled wire of the same gauge (or roughly so) and wind the same number of turns on it.

Strip the ends, fold it under and solder it to the pads on the PCB.

Might be challenging but it'll work just fine.

Dave

 

[NeonJohn]

You're right, I don't see any markings on that.
The good news is that you can rewind that inductor yourself.

I wouldn't even go to that much trouble. There is enough of a wire stub on each side that it could be solder-bridged.

I'd take an Exacto knife or something similar and clean the enamel off the ends of the wires. Stretch 'em out with needle nose pliers if you can. Epoxy or superglue the coil form back down. Then carefully solder bridge the wire to the pad on each side.

For sure you can stretch the wire on the outside of the coil. The inner wire might be a chore but even if it can't be stretched, a solder bridge should still be possible.

John

 

[ledkings]

I think i have a few E0's left in inventory, instead of using all that time trying to fix it, give me your contact info, ill send you an E0 if you pay for shipping which is only like ~$5 i think or less