Fenix L1T and L2T CR2/CR123 body tubes

[Essexman]

Ok so I have just managed to buy a Fenix L1T/L2T CR2 and CR123 body tubes last week in the marketplace B/S/T.

I know these were both made for the first version of the L1T and L2T, but has anyone tried them on the latest L1T or L2T v2.0 ??

 

[nakahoshi]

The new L1T/L2T V2 heads are bigger then the old models, and wont fit the tube. They will fit on a P2D body for a one cell setup.
-bobby

 

[MarNav1]

AFAIK, they were originally made for the L2P. Too much voltage for L1P I would think. Might work on L2T v2.0, don't know about changing levels though. FourSeven's will know. Good luck!

 

[Essexman]

After a bit of looking around, it would appear these were designed for the L1/L2P Fenix.

They also fit the L1T/L2T, but you loose the Hi/low, which is a shame.

So I guess my best bet is to buy a L2P and mod it with an SSC P4 emitter ?

 

[MarNav1]

Would work well I think. DatiLed has done several I believe.

 

[Essexman]

The more I look the more I find !
It would appear there were two types of the Fenix L2P.
The first was a 1 mode, the second was 2 stage, I guess with the twist of the bezel to switch hi/lo ?
This is going to drive me mad.
All I wanted was to make a nice CR2 / CR123 two stage fenix, now I'm not sure if it's possible

 

[stonehold]

I got the CR123a body with the original L2T. It works fine with primaries and 3.2v rechargables but it does loose low mode with 3.7v cells, when they fit.

 

[Essexman]

I got the CR123a body with the original L2T. It works fine with primaries and 3.2v rechargables but it does loose low mode with 3.7v cells, when they fit

Thanks Stonehold, that's the kind of first hand onfo I'm looking for.

Cheers

 

[nekomane]

Hi essexman,

The following runs were done for some Fenix lights.
All were black anodized (Type II) exept for a handful which were left bare aluminum.

- CR2 Body for Fenix L2P(2AA, single stage)
Unknurled.
Of course some people used them for the L1P (1AA) though I did not recommend it.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=105904

- CR2 Body for Fenix L2P
Knurled, 3 slots for tritium vials.

- CR123 Body for Fenix L2P
Knurled, no slots.

- CR123 Body for Fenix L1T and L2T(same circuit, 2 stage)
Knurled, no slots. 2 stage capable.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112025

- RCR123 Body for Fenix L1T/L2T
Knurled, no slots. Inner diameter was made wider, and this resulted in poor contact. Approximately 2 dozen were sold off cheaply for experimental purposes only (no guarantee).
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=162132

 

[Blindasabat]

I have almost all of Nekomane's battery tubes and still use the CR2 on an L2P (now fitted with the new Fenix momentary switch) and it makes a nice tiny clicky. Fits RCR2 but has very short runtime though brighter (and over driving, so risky)

I have an original L1T/L2T with CR123 body (fitted with the original Fenix L1T v2.0 momentary switch) that works great and I keep in my kitchen drawer. Still one of the smallest CR123 clickies. A nice EDC if you don't need the brightest light - mine still has Lux3. Very snug tube and can only fit some unprotected RCR123 and loses low overdriving the electrics.

I was an original tester for one of the RCR123 experimental tubes. Thanks again for the honor Neko!!! I measured it up and made a full report to Nekomane diagnosing the low mode issue. It can work if you have good soldering or modding skills.

I wish Nekomane would make more battery tubes, like maybe a CR123 body for the Nitecore Defender Infinity...

 

[Essexman]

Look what came in the post today........

nekomane - straight from the horses mouth! Many thanks for posting all that info, you have just saved me hours of going though your posts to find all those details. You did a great job in getting these made. They must be very good, there is still a lot of people who want them.

Blindasabat - Thanks for sharing too, now I know what I need, and what it will do.:thumbsup:

The CR123 is going to a good friend (he doesn't know about it yet!) who uses a L2T Lux 3 almost every day.

I'm going to try and find a L2P to use the CR2 body on, and like blindasabat find a new Fenix momentary switch.

cheers

 

[TexLite]

Why not a new L1Tv2.0 w/P2D body?

The new version comes with the updated forward clickie,is two stage,Cree Q2 LED,and will work fine with lithium primaries.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[Essexman]

Update - I forgot about this, I did get there in the end...

Great little light.

 

[jag-engr]

The following runs were done for some Fenix lights.
All were black anodized (Type II) exept for a handful which were left bare aluminum.

- CR2 Body for Fenix L2P(2AA, single stage)
Unknurled.
Of course some people used them for the L1P (1AA) though I did not recommend it.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=105904

- CR2 Body for Fenix L2P
Knurled, 3 slots for tritium vials.

Nekomane,

I'm confused about the knurled, slotted CR2 body for the Fenix L2P. Was it made to support the two-mode or single-mode L2P?

I have one for my L2T v1.0. The tube is not long enough to reach the back of the circuit board and make the secondary connection to activate the high mode on the L2T. Does L2P require less distance to make the secondary connection for high, or is the knurled & slotted CR2 body only for the single-mode L2P?

If the L2P can function in two modes with the CR2 body, I might be in the market for an L2P. :naughty:

Any light you could shed on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

[nekomane]

Hi Jag,
The CR2 bodies were made when the single stage L2P was the 'hottest' item on the market (ahh, wasn't it simple back then ) and was not designed for the 2 stage L*T series which became available a few months later.

CR123 bodies were redisigned for the 2 stage, but since there wasn't much demand for the CR2, they were discontinued.

Some people said they would try adding solder to the lips or fitting a ring to lengthen the body, but I don't remember anyone reporting on the results.

Got your PM too, please let me know if you need more info