Fenix P1. Holy *&%$, this is a bright little bugger!

matrixshaman

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I've been carrying my P1 a couple weeks now and using it a lot every day. Very bright and a great light. Interesting though today it went from what seemed near full brightness to almost completely off - not even as bright as the lowest setting on an HDS - in just about 2 seconds or less. I turned it off and back on and it came up in brightness a bit for about 1 second then back to nothing. Put in another battery and it was fine and fully bright again but I was surprised at how fast it went from full bright or nearly full brightness to almost dead. Within about 1 minute I had the battery out and it measured about 2.7 volts with no load - non-rechargeabel CR123. I guess my P1 basically shuts down or nearly so when it reaches a cutoff voltage. This would probably be great if you are running rechargeables but I think that primary could have still put out useable light if the driver was setup to use it. Either way the P1 is a great light and a serious user light.
 

windstrings

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matrixshaman said:
I've been carrying my P1 a couple weeks now and using it a lot every day. Very bright and a great light. Interesting though today it went from what seemed near full brightness to almost completely off - not even as bright as the lowest setting on an HDS - in just about 2 seconds or less. I turned it off and back on and it came up in brightness a bit for about 1 second then back to nothing. Put in another battery and it was fine and fully bright again but I was surprised at how fast it went from full bright or nearly full brightness to almost dead. Within about 1 minute I had the battery out and it measured about 2.7 volts with no load - non-rechargeabel CR123. I guess my P1 basically shuts down or nearly so when it reaches a cutoff voltage. This would probably be great if you are running rechargeables but I think that primary could have still put out useable light if the driver was setup to use it. Either way the P1 is a great light and a serious user light.

The battery may have been what shut you down. Protected cells will shut down do you don't get them below 2.4 volts and permantly ruin them.... lights have that too, but the P1 won't shut a light off till 1.7 volts.

You could go "Unprotected cells" and run down as far as you dare to the 1.7 volt limit, but you would kill its life and they are dangerous should you short one out in your pocket. You could have a small M-80 go off in your pocket!
Here is some good reading if you have never seen it.

It sounds like you drained the battery till shutoff "by the battery", then the voltage creeped up "without a load" that it allowed itself to reset again to come on, but only breifly before repeating its cycle.

Thats the negative to protected cells, they will leave you dead in your tracks and if you don't have any spares you are screwed.

You see the P1 has regulation with cells below 3.0 volts "like primaries" and so they run at full brightness until it looses regulation "not sure what voltage that is".

If you want more predictable power... either have spares handy to pop in, or use a recharable.. they are 3.6 volts and will burn brighter. YOu will get a bit less runtime since they are brighter and the recharables typically are less Mah rated.

I elected to but two rechargables and a charger for non serious use like home and work etc.
But on hiking trips etc when I want longevity, I just have primary spares.
You can buy primary 1300mah for 1.00 a piece here, and If you elect, you can buy the waterproof pelican case that comes with 15 for 25.00.. .there are other options too. If you drift off that page, you must come back to order there, or your price will be higher.. mention your cpf name too when ordering.
 

moldyoldy

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fwiw, Regarding the question of what is brighter between the L2T and the P1. In the last couple months or so, I purchased 5 P1s over time (one left in my possession & 2 more on order) and still have 2 L1T/L2T units (although one may go this Sunday). So I have some sample better than one which would mean a degrees of freedom of zero. What can I compare any Fenix to? I have an Inova T5 (excellent throw!) and XO3 (good cross between size and throw) - all of which are very well built. I picked up a 3W Brinkmann 3xAAA light at Target which gives a surprisingly good beam (throw/spill) for $30. I also have the Gerber LX3.0 which is well built. I suppose I should put all this in my tag line.... At any rate:

The early P1 units with freshly charged RCR123A were brighter than the early L1T/L2T head on an L2T body and freshly charged Sanyo 2700 NiMH cells. Then a couple weeks ago an L2T arrived that was arguably brighter than an early P1. However the latest P1 is about the same brightness as the latest L2T. Call it Luxeon lottery or whatever, but my puchases have supported the suggestion that Fenix LED are a bit brighter than before. Although I have no instrumented measuring info, a casual observation certainly supports the idea that the brightness changed over time.

I also note that the size of the spot has changed as well, and more on the L2T than on the P1. All of which makes it hard to determine brightness in my woodsy back yard. My neighbor's gazebo serves as a test target.

I noticed that Fenix appears to have increased the depth of the cross hatch on the head of the P1 to make it easier to grasp for a twist-on/off. Nice!

What am I doing with that many lights? too many people I know take a look at the P1 that I normally carry and want one - and since they tend to support the "instant gratification" urge, I keep having to replace "my" pocket light. :) Yes, I have an L0P, and a couple LxPs, but the P1 beam output vs size is what surprises people.
 

stoven

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Sep 1, 2006
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I just got a P1, L2T, and L1P in the mail today. The P1 is my favorite of the three but I measured the lux output and my L2T is brighter than my P1. The L2T I have a crappy yellow tint and the P1 looks nice and white. The batteries in the L2T move around and make noise when you move the flashlight. I think the tailcap spring needs to be stronger.
 

windstrings

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stoven said:
I just got a P1, L2T, and L1P in the mail today. The P1 is my favorite of the three but I measured the lux output and my L2T is brighter than my P1. The L2T I have a crappy yellow tint and the P1 looks nice and white. The batteries in the L2T move around and make noise when you move the flashlight. I think the tailcap spring needs to be stronger.

Sounds like the frequency of light on the L2T is a little low... I think its normal to get a higher lumen read as you drop in frequency provided the wattage is the same.
But not exactly a pocket light since its over twice as long and more diameter as it uses two AA batteries.
The P1 is rated at the same wattage but obviously without the runtime of the P2T. nor does it have two brightness level choices... according to what you need I guess. The push button switch is nice, which I prefer on any light thats not a pocket light.
 

ms1496

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Oct 2, 2006
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I agree that the P1 is definitely brighter on the rechargeable cr123. The run time is a little less but nothing significant.
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