Fenix T1 versus DBS V2 Cree XR-E WC Q5

[evi1joe]

Okay, so these both seem to be "throwers" and the DBS V2 is a bit bigger overall than the T1...is the T1 in the same league as the DBS V2 or is the latter not only better but also more upgradeable.

Could someone explain the differences/benefits/drawbacks between these two flashlights (I couldn't find any head-to-head comparisons on here).

It looks like ONLY the "1SM-1" version of the DBS V2 can use 2xCR123 batteries--but that wouldn't have 2 modes would it? I think I prefer the CR123s just because I've never heard of the other batteries and don't know how available they are, but if their performance is a lot better, perhaps I could switch to them.

PS--the Dereelight website isn't very n00bie-friendly (I still don't know what OP stands for even though I figured out "SMO" was for smooth-reflector..."OP" must be more flood-like?).

 

[supawabb]

OP refers to Orange Peel. Same ripply texture as an orange creating an extremely smooth beam pattern.

As for everything else you have asked... not sure.

 

[Nos]

i wouldnt call the T1 a thrower, especially not when it comes with op reflector. :shrug: my op T1 delivers a usable smooth beam up to ~150m

not sure how the Smo reflector on the T1 performs but the DBS will outhrow the T1 for sure.

just search 4 the reviews and beamshots of the two lights, this will help u choose the right light for you

 

[J.D.]

I don´t think the Fenix T1 is a real thrower, since it hasn´t got a real deep reflector.
Also the DBS should outthrow the T1 very easy.
I don´t know the exact numbers but i think the T1 is about 6000 lux at 1m
and the DBS is about 26000 Lux.
I think the T1 is build to be very ruggedized, while the DBS is a real thrower.

The T1 would be comparalbe to the Dereelight CL1H but not to the DBS...

just my 2 cents

 

[J.D.]

It looks like ONLY the "1SM-1" version of the DBS V2 can use 2xCR123 batteries--but that wouldn't have 2 modes would it?.

when you want to use the DBS Pills with 2x cr123 you have to go with the SM version.
a 2SM version exists, it did have 2 levels of output.

I prefer 18650 rechargeable batteries, they are able to store a lot of energy - and you can recharge them.

I think the best source for this batteries and a suitable charger is AW at the CPF Marketplace.
A Very nice guy to deal with:tinfoil:

 

[CandleFranky]

Okay, so these both seem to be "throwers" and the DBS V2 is a bit bigger overall than the T1...is the T1 in the same league as the DBS V2 or is the latter not only better but also more upgradeable.

The Fenix T1 compares with the Dereelight CL1H V3.0. There is a 2SM-Version, which have two modes and takes CR123As and Li-Ion cells.

As other users said, the Dereelight DBS is a $120 real thrower for long distance. Ask yourself for which purpose you will use the flashlight. Because the DBS is not suited for near distance work. It is not an allround-flashlight.

I have not bought the Fenix T1, because of the battery-limitations, it can not use 18650s. For regular use, it's too expensive to use CR123As only and RCR123As does not have the capacity.

So I came to Li-Ion cells, where the type 18650 is preferred by lots of powerusers. You can buy good Li-Ion batteries and chargers here. But you have to inform yourself about the risks of using Li-Ion cells!!!

DereeLight is a small and individual flashlight-building company in China. They offer a great service, great products and upgradeability for their LEDs (drop ins). They build flashligts for flashoholics, not for the massmarket.

Go for the CL1H V3.0 (2SM).
And you will buy the DBS soon after. :kiss:

 

[I came to the light...]

If you are looking for a good all-around flashlight the T1 would be a better choice. You will find that the DBS is a bit too large for convenient everyday use, and its beam isn't that useful close-up. However, it is probably the best-throwing mass-product LED flashlight. Different reports claim 26000 - 29000 center lux from the DBS. The T1 has about 7000. (lux is intensity in one spot. The DBS is just barely brighter overall, but the DBS has a much smaller and brighter beam)

The T1 has more throw than other Fenix products, like the P3D w/ ~4000 lux, but isn't really a thrower compared to many other lights.

CR123A batteries are pretty much the standard non-rechargeable lithium batteries used in these types of flashlights. The only alternatives are rechargeable li-ion batteries: the RCR123A or the 18650 (twice as big, so use only 1). CR123As have higher total capacity, but will cost more in the long run than rechargeables. The 18650 has more capacity than 2 RCR123As. I would recoment buying an 18650-based light, or at least one compatable with them.

You can order any of Dereelight's flashlights with a 1SD, 2SD, 3SD, 1SM, 2SM, or DI "pill" (LED module containing circuitry). The first number is the number of modes. SM indicates a pill that takes RCR123As, CR123As, and 18650s, but does not perform as well on any power source as the pills ending in "SD" do on 18650s. The "SD" pills and "DI" pill can only use an 18650.

A great alternative to both lights is the Dereelight CL1H. It is only 3mm longer than the T1, but has the DBSs brightness in a much more closeup-friendly beam. It puts out about 11,000 lux.

To conclude this, I think your best choice overall would be to buy a Dereelight CL1H v3.0 3SD Q5 (that's the latest CL1H 3SD). That means you would have to buy a 18650 battery and charger too, but I think it will pay off. Of course, they are so many other possibilities, this is just my opinion. So if you just want a good light, stop at the CL1H. But if you want something perfectly suited to your needs, you could easily spend days on CPF

 

[WadeF]

Everyone is right on with their replies. The Fenix T1 and the Dereelight CL1H V3 would be in the same league is they are using the same reflectors. The CL1H V3 with a smooth reflector will out throw a Fenix T1 with a textured reflector, and I'd imagine a Fenix T1 with smooth reflector would out throw a CL1H V3 with a textured reflector.

The DBS will out throw both of them even with an OP reflector. Drop a smooth reflector into the DBS and it will leave the T1 and CL1H in the dust when it comes to throw.

 

[selfbuilt]

You can compare the DBS V2 with R2 DI to the Fenix T1 by comparing my two reviews.

DBS V2 (with R2 Cree/ DI) Comparison Review
Fenix T1 vs. Regal WT1: RUNTIMEs, pics - added new 2nd Edition WT1!

I used the same testing methodology, so the numbers from one review (e.g. lux, throw, runtime, output, etc.) can be directly compared between the reviews.

Cheers! :wave:

 

[evi1joe]

THANK YOU everyone, for your replies and thoughts. I'm sold on the CL1H V3.0 (2SM).

Should I pay the $5 extra to upgrade to the R2 emitter? (I read somewhere that that was a possibility, but I have NO idea if that's a brighter/better emitter or if it just has a different hue/color.)

 

[evi1joe]

THANK YOU everyone, for your replies and thoughts. I'm sold on the CL1H V3.0 (2SM).

Should I pay the $5 extra to upgrade to the R2 emitter? (I read somewhere that that was a possibility, but I have NO idea if that's a brighter/better emitter or if it just has a different hue/color.)

 

[evi1joe]

THANK YOU everyone, for your replies and thoughts. I'm sold on the CL1H V3.0 (2SM).

Should I pay the $5 extra to upgrade to the R2 emitter? (I read somewhere that that was a possibility, but I have NO idea if that's a brighter/better emitter or if it just has a different hue/color.)

 

[J.D.]

THANK YOU everyone, for your replies and thoughts. I'm sold on the CL1H V3.0 (2SM).

Should I pay the $5 extra to upgrade to the R2 emitter? (I read somewhere that that was a possibility, but I have NO idea if that's a brighter/better emitter or if it just has a different hue/color.)

good choice :thumbsup:,
besides the r2 emmiters are sold out: (i think)
- the r2 emmitters was a wh tint (looks more yellow, closer to ican)
- the q5 are a WC tint (pure white)
i´ve tried both tints and for myself i prefer the WH tint especially outdoors, this tint makes the thinks in the woods look more natural.

On the paper the r2 emmiters should be brighter ( they have the higher bin number).

 

[CandleFranky]

THANK YOU everyone, for your replies and thoughts. I'm sold on the CL1H V3.0 (2SM). Should I pay the $5 extra to upgrade to the R2 emitter? (I read somewhere that that was a possibility, but I have NO idea if that's a brighter/better emitter or if it just has a different hue/color.)

You will be very happy with your new Dereelight CL1H 3.0 2SM. If you have any questions about this flashlights, ask Alan from Dereelight at the marketplace forum. Btw --> The 2SM is the only module, where the batteries are inserted with the "-"-pole in the direction of the head!

I would not pay attention to the small difference of Q5 and R2. These early R2s was in a yellow WH tint. You can upgrade your CL1H 3.0, when a R4 WC bin is available. :thumbsup:

 

[evi1joe]

Doh--my bad. Actually I ordered the CL1H v3 3SD with the 18650 battery (I ordered 2 protected and 1 unprotected as well as a charger from AW). I did include an extra $5 for the R2 emitter, but I'll just email Alan and ask him if he'll just credit me towards and R4 emitter upgrade when they come out.

Thanks again for all your input--I think the T1 is on par and tougher, however, I liked the upgradeability of the dereelight.

Question:
Is there a Q5, R2 or Cree LED flashlight that holds four AA batteries bunched together in a short light? 4 AAs together with a rubber-band around have a nice size diameter and would be more available in a SHTF situation.