kosPap
Flashlight Enthusiast
A friend send me his Tk11 tape switch to fix (it was really mangled with missing parts). At first he sourced a Tk12 tape switch but it ddi not fit as the threads were vastly different.
So my task was to transplant one switch innards in the other's shell.
Notice: Tk11 models up to R2 use the AR101 tape switch. Models from Tk11 R5 and up use the AR102 tape switch.
The Tk12 switch disassembled.
It comes in two parts that sandwich together. The wavy pattern at point B acts as a lock.
Point D is a wire fault. And please take note of the gasket on point I. This will have to be left out during the transplant.
The small side switch is easy to find (DX for example)
Point A shows 2 tabs that slide in the case body. These will have to be removed cos the Tk11 tailcap does not has the channels to accept them
The tailcap differences (Tk12 on the right) Note the different cable holes. This is why you must left out the cylindrical gasket I talked of in the first pic. Nevertheless cable fit will be tight
Point E shows 2 more protrusions that mate to the PCB holes next to Point F. This is how the wires for both switches (clickie & tape) are soldered. The red substance is gum/silicone like.
This is how you will have to remove the two parts. Slide the lower part out with 2 hooked tools like these tweezers (point C shows how/where to insert). This is the easy way now that you know how!
The rest of the parts
The switch parts reassembled on the AR101 shell.
The torn red wire was replaced, and 2-part epoxy was added to Point F to secure the wire (this is the weak part of the tape switch, the cable can be torn off). Also see how you should fold the clickie switch wires (Point G).
But do NOT let the glue to set. Assembly will require the top part to be inserted,and then the lower one. This will require some slack on the wire that you will have to "take"/pull gradually as you push the lower part in.
Other view of the same thing. Point F shows how the PCB mates with the tabs (point E)
That's it…pretty straight forward if you know how to….
So my task was to transplant one switch innards in the other's shell.
Notice: Tk11 models up to R2 use the AR101 tape switch. Models from Tk11 R5 and up use the AR102 tape switch.
The Tk12 switch disassembled.
It comes in two parts that sandwich together. The wavy pattern at point B acts as a lock.
Point D is a wire fault. And please take note of the gasket on point I. This will have to be left out during the transplant.
The small side switch is easy to find (DX for example)
Point A shows 2 tabs that slide in the case body. These will have to be removed cos the Tk11 tailcap does not has the channels to accept them
The tailcap differences (Tk12 on the right) Note the different cable holes. This is why you must left out the cylindrical gasket I talked of in the first pic. Nevertheless cable fit will be tight
Point E shows 2 more protrusions that mate to the PCB holes next to Point F. This is how the wires for both switches (clickie & tape) are soldered. The red substance is gum/silicone like.
This is how you will have to remove the two parts. Slide the lower part out with 2 hooked tools like these tweezers (point C shows how/where to insert). This is the easy way now that you know how!
The rest of the parts
The switch parts reassembled on the AR101 shell.
The torn red wire was replaced, and 2-part epoxy was added to Point F to secure the wire (this is the weak part of the tape switch, the cable can be torn off). Also see how you should fold the clickie switch wires (Point G).
But do NOT let the glue to set. Assembly will require the top part to be inserted,and then the lower one. This will require some slack on the wire that you will have to "take"/pull gradually as you push the lower part in.
Other view of the same thing. Point F shows how the PCB mates with the tabs (point E)
That's it…pretty straight forward if you know how to….
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