Before I purchase my next Fenix unit, has any one ever run one in the so-called Turbo mode? And if so, how long did it last? I've got a bad feeling about this winter.
chiphead
I just purchased a P1D-CE Q5. The instructions are very explicit: Turbo Mode should be used very sparingly to avoid overheating (and permanent damage) to the flashlight.
Is that the entire warning? I thought there was a part that said "In high ambient temperatures, turbo mode should be use very sparingly to avoid overheating..."
Therefore, I think it's safe to say that run time tests in the Max Mode are pretty much unsafe REGARDLESS of the ambient temperatures which was my point. I do realize that heat build up will vary from model to model. I prefer a light I can run in its maximum mode without fear of damage.
Actually, human contact is encouraged for operating aluminum lights. Your own circulatory system will help draw heat away from the light, thanks to the thin interface in-between (i.e. your skin). A light run in candle-mode will got hotter far faster than one that is held in your hand.A hand held flashlight can easily absorb heat from human contact as well as the ambient air ... Therefore, I think it's safe to say that run time tests in the Max Mode are pretty much unsafe REGARDLESS of the ambient temperatures which was my point. I do realize that heat build up will vary from model to model. I prefer a light I can run in its maximum mode without fear of damage.
I've been very satisfied running My L2D CE strictly on turbo. I think the one weakness is my use of Energizer NiMH batteries...they are self-discharging faster than I can make substantial use of them. Eneloops in my sights.
Actually, human contact is encouraged for operating aluminum lights. Your own circulatory system will help draw heat away from the light, thanks to the thin interface in-between (i.e. your skin). A light run in candle-mode will got hotter far faster than one that is held in your hand.
I believe the issue here is with the P1D (or any similar sized light), which has a relatively low aluminum mass (and hence lower heatsinking surface area). In contrast, the L2D running at the same Max/Turbo intensity should be reasonably fine due to its larger size. This is a similar problem for 1AAA lights running on high voltage Li-ion rechargeables (i.e. 10440s) - thermal runaway is possible, which could damage/destroy an emitter.
I don't believe this is a specific Fenix problem - they are just being more upfront than most about the risks of running small lights at high drive currents.
That's good to know Selfbuilt, thanks for the reply. My reference to holding the light in hand was only that human skin is approximately 93 degrees and that if the 90 degree temperature range is considered to be "high ambient" temperature by Fenix, then there could be a problem.
I haven't been in a situation yet where I had to run TURBO for extended periods of time, and I would be a little nervous leaving it on TURBO to do a run time test, although others have.
Holding the light in your hand helps to absorb heat out out of the light, keeping the light cooler than if it was left to just tail stand.
I'd consider high ambient temperature to be 120F+. You can look up what temp CREE's are rated for, and then get an idea about at what temperature is too high for the light to be able to cool itself.
Luckily we usually use lights at night when it isn't very hot.![]()
Is it safe to run L2D-CE on Turbo mode at all times?
I had a complete failure of L2D-CE after 2-3 weeks of usage and no accidents with it. I ran it exclusively on Turbo, never really longer than 20 minutes at a time. It did get hot at times. One day it just failed to turn on, and fresh cells and a new switch failed to fix it. I wonder if the Turbo mode is what destroyed it.
Since I got a replacement, I wonder if I should be more cautious with the modes and run it in High, which is almost as high as Turbo.