Finally found the perfect $5 forward clicky for G2

[Alero]

Skip to the bottom if you just want G2 clicky info....

New user here! This is my first post but I've been a lurker forever.

My wife thinks I'm completely insane with my flashligh collecting!

I've got somewhere around 100 lights now. My wife says more than 100 but I'd guess a little less.

Almost all of my lights are LED plus a few halogen searchlights. I want a big 35w HID next!

I have around 20 Maglites, a new Lumapower MRV, a Trustfire TR-CI with cree p4, about 10 Tek-Tite dive lights and TONS of other, cheaper LED lights. I especially have tons of Garrity lights.
I always liked Garrity lights because 15 or 20 years ago when I was a drunken college student, we used to go cave exploring in West Texas. The hills and caves there are VERY sharp, abrasive granite that will tear an aluminum light (Mag for example) to shreads in no time.
The Garrity Tuff-Lite ws the only affordable light I ever found that could take the abuse.

Anyway, I always wanted a Surefire but couldn't justify the cost. Well, last week I bought one a black G2 an impulse buy at Bass Pro Shops. I already ordered an LED drop-in for it from DX. I couldn't decide which one to get...so I bought all of them. haha! I'll let you know which one works best!

I love being part of the elite Surefire owner's club, but honestly I never cared for the switch. I wanted a clicky but I wanted to maintain the original tail cap.

Soooo...I tried TONS of switches from old lights and various boxes of junk until I found the perfect one...

You know those aftermarket clicky switches for the AA mini-mag? The one that is black with a red button?

Well, it fits perfectly in my G2!

All you have to do is take some pliers and remove the stuff inside he G2 tail switch. Then, you'll need a small object to place between the rubber switch cover and the red button. I had a little plastic disc from another light but just about anything will work fine. Also, one of the rubber/silicone GITD covers from DX with the little nub inside is great too.

Just drop the Mag switch inside and screw it back on. That's it!

the G2 battery tube has a slight chamfer in it that will center the switch perfectly. I plan to put a little electrical tape around the switch eventually so that it won't fall out when I change batteries.

It will leave a slight gap of maybe 1/8" but it won't hurt anything. I went back with a Dremel and chamfered the Mag switch so that the tail cap fits with no gap now. If you take a Dremel to yours, remove the o-ring first or you'll probably just trash it. I noticed that the G2 has a place for 2 o-rings on the head and tail but it only has one on each. The mag o-ring fits either one if you just want a place to put it.

Hope some of you like the tip!

 

[Nitroz]

Welcome to CPF!

That's a great way to start with a first post that has a tip.:twothumbs

It's funny that it took you so long to get here. It looks like you're already a flashaholic.

 

[Gunner12]

:welcome:

Thanks for the tip(though I don't have Surefire yet),

You should skip the unenlightened and go directly to Flashaolic.

 

[Alero]

You think I might be a flashaholic? haha

I was going to take a pic of all my lights and post them, but I realized it's impossible. They are stored all over the house! I can't imagine not forgetting some.

I always thought it was such a strange thing to be facinated by. I still have no clue why I like them so much. I was never scared to the dark when I was a kid, although I do remember always playing with them until the batteries ran out. Maybe that's why I like LEDs so much now. Also, I suppose they are something like a well-made gun. Even if you don't shoot, you probably have an appreciation for the pursuit of mechanical perfection. It's fun to see how the designs are gradually tweaked over the years and how every time you think it can't get much better, a big innovation comes out of nowhere. Anything made by hand or on a computer aided machine to extremely high tolerances and out of high quality materials usually hold my attention. Ok I have no clue why I like flashlights so much. There, I admit it!

Oh, almost forget. My EDC used to be a CMG Infinity. It's too big though. Now I use a coast lenser. It's the really small one thta takes 4 ag13 batteries. I don't really like button cell batteries, but the ag13's come in packages of 18 at Target for $3.99 so it's not too bad. I want a Fenix with HAIII coating though!

The Coast light, plus my other Coast (takes one AA and has 3 5mm LEDs) are VERY bright but have almost zero throw. They have weird color variations too, but I still like them. I like watching the patterns that my keys and other junk scratches into the Lenser in my pocket over the years. It's like art!

I've converted all of my Mags to LED. I have a 2D, 3D, 4D, and 6D. They are all Mag Led except for the 6D which is a Terra-Lux.
I also have a 2C and a 4C. The 2C is Mag LED and the 4C is Terra Lux.

I have about a dozen AA Mini Mags. I have the 3AA and the 2AA 3w LED but I don't like them all that much. I also have a bunch of regular ones in different colors that all have the 3 LED drop-in from Target.

My wife went to Hong Kong earlier this year for business, and as a souvenier she found the weirdest light she could find for me. It's gold anodized with a ring of 10 white LEDs and 5 multi-colored LEDs in the center that ut on a little light show. Funny thing is that I already had 2 of them. Didn't have the heart to tell her though.

If my local Sam's Club will ever drop the price on the Power on Board HID and I get one of those (maybe 2 actually!) and a better Keychain light, I swear I won't buy any more!

 

[Gunner12]

You might want to consider modding you maglites. Imagine 3 Cree Q5s driven at 1 amp each, 700+ lumen at the LED. Maybe a Malkoffdevices drop-in for that 4D mag. Can't complain with 1000+ mA constant for 8+ hours to the LED.

The Fenix L0D-CE and Liteflux Lf2 both seem to be great keychain lights from what I've read here.

 

[Alero]

Had my eye on a Malkoff drop-in for a while now, but if I'm gonna spend that much cash, I'll probably buy new stuff for my current favorites like my G2, Trustfire, and MRV.
I would like to have a Malkoff someday though. Probably for my 4C-cell Mag. I really like the way the C-Cell fits in my hand. Also, I think C-cells are great for emergencies because no one is ever sold out of them.

I know the Mag brand drop-ins aren't great because of the heat problems, but I had a bunch of store credit and didn't know what else to buy at the time.

I think you're right about the Q5 though. I'd love to have something with one in it soon. I thought about the Bugout for my G2 but man that's a lot of money for something that might burn up in a plastic light. Maybe I'll get a metal surefire sometime soon. I just ordered a bunch of lithium ion rechargeables to got in my G2 since it won't take my 18650's.

 

[Lighthouse one]

Try to google "power on board"on e-bay. I just got the Hid for $59 and $10 shipping. It's a great light! Heck, I have 4 regular flashlights that I paid more for than this Hid. Danmann200 is who I got mine from...Trustworthy. because I'm really leary of E-bay.

 

[Alero]

Well, I searched Sam's CLub all over the country and found one for 32 bucks. I'm currently negotiating with my local club manager to try to get one at that price. I told her I'd buy 3 if she wants some store volume. I think she's gonna go for it. Using the phrase "increased store volume" has an amazing effect on just about any store manager.

Also, I was at Target today and noticed that the Nite-Ize button for my G2 mod seems to now have a black button instead of a red one in the center. Doesn't seem to matter which one for the Mod. Both should work fine.

I wanted to try the IQ smart switch from Nite-Ize, but I'm afraid the extra voltage from the G2 will fry the electronics or the little red locator LED. Might work with a 17500 3.7v though. I don't wanna risk mine to find out.

Is this mod pretty simple to understand? Or do I need to take some pics and post?

 

[jbviau]

Pics would be great for a newbie like me! Great tip--thanks.

 

[Alero]

Ok here goes! Posting a bunch of pics is a pain in the butt! I give up. You could just look here:


And be sure to hit the "all sizes" button to see the big views!

 

[jbviau]

Nice pics. Favor: Could you post a link to the minimag switch you used? I think I have a different one (by Terralux).

 

[Alero]

Mine is from Nite-ize.

http://www.niteize.com/productdetail.php?category_id=28&product_id=108

I think mine is an older one because the button is red. They should both work just fine though. I think I got mine from Fry's, but I'm pretty sure the Target and WalMart carry them.

Never used the Terralux. I've got some of their LED drop-ins, but none of their switches so I can't tell you anything.

 

[pbs357]

Hey Alero,

Awesome tip!

Question for you: when you say use pliers to remove the G2 switch parts, do you mean just yank out the spring with pliers?

And, question for the CPF gurus: will this switch and method work for the 6p?

Great find!

 

[Alero]

Yep. Pretty much just yank it out. Remove everything made of metal. It took me quite a few hours to find out you could remove the junk in there without breaking it. And it took quite a few days to work up the guts to risk it on my new G2!

I can't imagine breaking anything. Mine came apart with a little effort. I know it's scary though! It should also be completely reversible if you ever decide to switch it back (which you won't!).

 

[Alero]

Yeah, I don't have a 6P but was thinking about getting one someday. I'd also love to hear from someone willing to try my mod on one. It doesn't alter the light in any way, so should be easy to test.

Oh, if someone is really bored at work and wants to post the pics from the link above, feel free to do so.

 

[Alero]

Update!

I got the 10-pack of GITD silicone switch covers from DX and they make a HUGE difference! The switch is so awesome now! It's the best I have by far. Some people might not like the lack of a positive feeling, audible click, but I love how silent it is.

Also, I got the DX model 6090 drop-in. This thing is so much brighter than my P-4 light. Only my MRV is brighter. The spill is the same as the MRV and you REALLY have to compae side by side to see a differene.

I also got some 17650 batteries and a new charger. VERY nice! The battery fits tight, but a slight skake gets it out just fine.

At first, the LED module didn't fit tight enough. The battery would hold it in place but eventually the battery (because it fits tight) would push forward and stay so that the switch lost contact. SO I have to cut one spiral of spring to use on the module and now it's PERFECT. No gaps and 100% reliable.

Reliable, not too expensive, tough as nails, EXTREMELY bright, nice spot/spill balance, forward clickie, non-metalic (won't freeze my hand in winter!). I love this light!

I honestly think I've finally created the perfect light!

 

[KDOG3]

Nice post about the clickie for the G2. Gonna have to try that. Where do you get them...

 

[Alero]

Target, Walmart, Frys, etc...

Only thing is that lately they seem to only come packaged with the 3-LED or 1w LED drop-in bulb. So you might spend 10 bucks and get an LED to throw in an old AA mini-mag.

 

[hank]

I've tried the NiteIze, Kroll, and some other tailcap switches and found them all okay for on/off, but all have eventually become intermittent enough to confuse the interface on two FluPIC boards from time to time. I end up cleaning them out every few months if I'm using them regularly, with tuner cleaner/contact cleaner.

Anyone know of something sealed that holds up longterm? Gold plated parts would probably be the way to go. Or a nitrogen-sealed switch.

 

[Alero]

I can't imagine having the switch ever get dirty. It's sealed up inside the light!

Also, I had to go in and make one more tweak. I made everything inside the light fit as tight as possible, so the tiny little spring on the mag switch would sometimes bend over and contact the side wall when I screwed the tail on tight. So there was no way to turn the light off.

I also noticed that the same little spring was gouging some small circles on the bottom of the battery. I can imagine this being a problem over the years.

Easy fix though. I found an aluminum nail from a picture hanging kit that fits snugly in the center of the spring. I cut of the head so that only about 2mm of nail was left. I stuck it in the spraing and it's been working perfectly. The nail head contacts the battery and protects it, and it also keeps the spring nice and straight and centered.

I love this light!!!!