Flashlight Photography Made Easy - a Tutorial

[kosPap]

Hi all!

I had some spare time this morning so I set up this Flashlight Photography Made Easy Tutorial

Part 1

This is about MY version of setting up the photographing space...

Here is a sketch of my setup which is easy, fast and quite good.

(on the left the setup I use, one the right the optimum kind)

What it actually is: My book case has a cupboard (?). I use this as a platform...on the overhead bookself I have jammed a white plastic food serving tray under the books...Presto!

The idea is to cope with a single flash unit on/of the camera. Then you bounce the flash on the overhead white reflector and that disperses and smoothes the light, but also removes the nasty shadows at the background.

The improved version is better because it sends more light in front of the subject than my current setup does...It is all about controlling the shadow intensity. (I like it though, 'cos it helps with the three dimensional appearance)

Qaution: Do not use a cloth for the white surface, the cloth's weave will show nasty...Just plain printer paper from A3 to A1 size...

NOTE: For those that do not have an external flash unit, I suggest making a kind of upwards and forward deflector using cardboard, aluminum foil as lining and tape. I have done it ages ago for another purpose, but I have no time doing it again...Maybe latter some day....

Add-On: There are more issues to it... Aperture/Depth of field control, Aperture/Flash Intensity Control, Flash Intensity Control Only, Frame over/underexposure. For owners of DSLRs these are easy.

There is a real danger that you may get dark/underexposed pics...This is because you are using a dark object on a white background. Too much light is reflected back before the dark flashlight is lighted correctly. (Ok Ok I know about slow-curtain sync, but this is beyond this post)

Sorry for the rest, the users of P&S and compact cameras, it cannot be done properly any other way. You're only option is to use Exposure Compensation if your camera has it...

Part 2 – Photoshoping the pics

This is a quick and easy guide to Photoshoping...For people that do not use photoshop there is a simpler yet powerful FREE alternative: Irfanview

NOTICE: Proper workflow practices dictate that you work on COPIES of your photographs. There is no going back with the following simple methods.

Great Big Tip before we start. One of the easiest ways to learn photoshop is by reading the pop-up labels when you point the cursor to a button. Then you wonder "so what does this thing do?" and you learn by trying.

Step 1 – Color Correction

Photoshop has a good utility on the levels window...The eyedroppers convert the pixel you click to black, grey and white respectively...

That means that when your color or lightness is off you just have to point them to the parts that are real life white and real life black...Then the bias will be removed and colors most of the times will be restored to their real life values. Then you can refine adjustemts using the middle slider of the levels graph

Step 2 – Desaturating the Shadows (with a revolutionary selection tutorial)

This is a nice feature for your photos. We use the desaturate command on a selection that is made easy, fast, and reliable. (With more hidden features for advanced users).

The idea is that photoshop allows you to make a selection my making a mask on the said region. And you only have to paint on the region when in mask mode. (Follow the arrows – double clicking on the mask icon that dialog box opens and gives you masking options). You can choose the brush size and style clicking at the button that is poointed by the arrow at upper left. And if you want ot dix a mistake just use white paint or the eraser tool.

After you're done you exit the mask mode and presto you have a selection ready!

TIP: If you want to use any tool in Photoshop in a straight line you Shift+Click in the beginning and again Shift+click on the end of the line, Presto!

Then you apply the desaturation command. Ready!

Step 3 – Cropping and Resizing

Cropping is when you remove unwanted material from a photo. And you got to resize to CPF standards (800 pixels at the widest)...So here we go,

This is the simplest of the all, but with a BIG negative effect.

We use the Crop Tool. We enterthe desired image size in Pixels in the boxes and we either leave the resolution box empty or we input a value of 96. Then we fit the cropping window at the image area that interests us, and we press Enter.

This method forces the image to these dimensions, but it is very hard in shrinking it. It just throws away resolution but in an inefficient manner, creating jagged artifacts. (Hell, it shows in several of these pics too). And thinks get worst when we start with a many Mpixels image. (I purposefully shoot CPF pics in 2MP)

(Resolution and image size when we edit photos are co-depended in an inverse way. When we increase one we decrease the other. Also the pics you see here are a 640x320=0.23Mp equivalents. And under normal conditions it is hard to imagine any CPF grade pic going over 0.43Mp). So plan accordingly!

What we can do is resize our picture before we crop it...We upsize it if it is too small and downsize it if it is too big. We do that gradually 10-20 percent of the time and apply sharpening as needed. Here how it is done:

NOTE: The issue of cropping and resizing is far more complicated if you want to get GOOD results...The only way to guide you within this tutorial is too suggest using high resolution and then using the "Save for Web" command as seen in these pics:

ETA: As stated above, depending from the method used there are cases that a higher initiall resolution is needed. When you are going to use the save for web feature you might as well use a high resolution image...

Step 4 –Resizing Only

For standalone pics outside Photoshop there is a simple way to do it.
Go to msn.com and search for the Windows Powertoys. One of them is called Image Resizer. After you install it, it puts a line in the right click pop-up.

Clicking on it brings up this dialog box...Very Easy

 

[xcel730]

Re: Flashlight Photography Made Easy

Wow. Thanks for taking your time in posting this. :thumbsup: I'm trying to take nice photos, but find it very difficult.

 

[Kilovolt]

A very interesting thread, thanks for sharing the info.

 

[aussiebob]

Cool, Thanks!

 

[Ty4752]

Thank you for the tutorial :twothumbs

 

[kosPap]

Thank you all for the kind words....I really hope you will gind it og use posting better pics in CPF....!

My original post has been updated with minor photoshop tips...

 

[Grox]

Great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to write it up! Very clear and detailed without being too technical. I have a similar setup but haven't used it for flashlights... perhaps I ought to!

 

[divine]

Levels are great, I've been using them a bit to reveal things that are hidden with shadows.

 

[PetaBread]

:thanks: Helps alot. Now I just need to get a camera. :mecry:

 

[Solscud007]

You should take a picture of your space.

I didnt read thru the whole post as it was a lot of Photoshop tutorial stuff.

Here are some tips for the camera


You can try a few simple steps to get better pictures. All in the pursuit of better pics.


1. Set your ISO to a low number. I checked your camera model. You have as low as ISO 80. This is like film speed. All you need to know is the lower the number, usually the better looking the picture is. If you look at your Cyclonus pics, they are somewhat grainy/noisy. there are specks of noise in the picture. the lower the ISO the clearer that will be. (you might want to try 100 or 200 as well for a slightly faster pic. it is a trade off. long picture taking time for clean pic, or fast picture time, and grainy pic.

2. Use a tripod if you have one. You can try setting the camera down on something like the table or prop it up with a stable stack of books. If not, go buy one. Just a cheap desk one for 10 bucks will do. But if you want really want to get better, go for a cheap $20 full size tripod. the kind that can stand 3 feet tall etc. The taller tripods allow for better movement and range for the camera than the table top. this gets more into the composition of your pictures. Table top tripods will be good for just straight on shots.

3. use the self/remote timer. This goes in conjunction with parts 1 & 2 that i mentioned above. When you use a low ISO, the camera will need to leave the shutter open longer so you want to avoid any movement. even using a tripod and hitting the shutter button with your finger can cause the camera to shake after you let go. So you set up the tripod, set the timer, then hit the button and let go. The camera will take about 3-10 secs (depending the the camera) then take the picture. DO NOT TOUCH THE CAMERA. Wait for the camera to take the picture. usually it will take a second to more to take the pic.

If you did it right, the picture should be nice and clear.

play with the settings and try different things. get to know your camera. it all helps later on.


Also here are some tips on shooting spaces particularly light tents.



lights are important. no need for umbrella lights. Ideally you want the most powerful lights as you can get for as little as you can get.

Try to get lights in pairs. you typically want at least two light sources. one on either side of your light box.

200 watts or more is better.

For a cheap route go to Home Depot or any similar major hardware store chain. Go and look for the lightbulb section. there should be a cheap $15 USD halogen light that pumps out 500 watts. It is a red rectangular work light with a cage and small stand. be careful using this. it puts out a LOT of HEAT. but it is cheap and tons of light.

Walmart has these barn lights with clamps. VERY simple. It is a ceramic socket with a power cord coming out of it. the ceramic socket has an aluminum reflector around it and a clamp in the back. this is like 10 bucks. These are great cause they are rated for high-output bulbs like 200 watts.

Not all lamps can handle high wattage bulbs. so if you go the cheap round and try to use a household lamp or something cheap from ikea, check the maximum wattage allowed. more than likely it wont exceed 100 watts.



Now for your light box. there are a lot of cheap DIY alternatives. but i have found the secret for a low-nonexistent budget. Im very proud of this disovery.

I present the Ikea KOJA tent. only $9.99
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30073090



This thing is MASSIVE. it easily accomodates children.

Now here are the key components. lighting is placed on either side. Again a note of caution when using incandescent lights that produce heat. the sides of the tent are white. that is all you need.

Now you need to get a bed sheet and iron out the wrinkles. preferably white. or if you can find it, a giant sized piece of paper. like 4 feet by 6 feet.

there you go. I have given you the tools to be proficient photographers. lets start seeing some better photography please.

 

[kosPap]

Just a question beforehand...does your post apply to me or is it aimed at the general memberage?

If it is about me I admit not remebering what ISO I was using, Indeed It may be left at 400...

Vut you missed the point of this thread...

Simple setups for inexpereinced members at photography....

I have done my share of high wattage ligths and point lights (have experimented with flashlight light too), multiple flash sync (these for the purposes of a magazine review) but I will no longer turn the only room I live in into a construction site for the purposes of CPF pics...No more tripods, remotes etc unless vital...

The overhead bounce flash method gives me what I want and I believe 90% of the better pics posted HERE....

But your post is a valid contribution for those that want to experiment and move ahead,,,,

 

[Solscud007]

Oh no. I was not directing my post to you. I was jsut adding to the thread. It seemed your post was vary thorough in Photoshop tips and tricks. So I added some basics for the camera side of photography and a little basics for lighting.


After re-reading your post, It sounds like you have a DSLR? cause you talk about "bouncing the flash" which is somewhat more advanced than a simple point and shoot can offer. You could bounce a point and shoot flash with some cardboard and what not. but the method in which you do it, would involve a flash like for a DSLR that can change the angle and point the flash up.

My setup works with point and shoot cameras, as that is where I started before I got my Nikon D40 SLR. Not that your setup doesnt work, it does and I just offer another method and alternate solution to get the same results.

 

[kosPap]

indeed but somewhere in the original ost you missed where I suggested making aflashbouncer for P&S (compacts) and for DSLRs too when the owner does not have an external unit...

I have tried ages ago and it works....I just do not have more tiem to remake soem demos

 

[Solscud007]

oh ok. Yeah I didnt read ALL the way thru. But we are on the same page. It is like photoshop. There is never any ONE RIGHT answer. There are many ways to arrive at the same place and get the job done. If that werent the case then we would only have one flashlight. not thousands of differnet brands and models to achieve one simple goal. Light things up.

 

[willrx]

Thanks for sharing, lots of good info here.