Anyone know if the Liteflux LF2 has "parasitic drains"?
Anyone know if the Liteflux LF2 has "parasitic drains"?
I carry the Fenix P1D in my pocket as a backup. When I put in a fresh surefire it measures 3.27v. Two months later without using it the voltage is about 3.10. It is a twisty so I cannot twist it enough to stop contact with the spring. Also I carry a Fenix LOD as a backup to my backup and it seems to have the same parasitic drain. I was thinking of doing a voltage drop check for one month on both of these comparing it to my P3D CE with clicky. If I want to stop parasitic drain, what material would be the best to place between battery and positive end contact? Plastic is available with very thin layers, cardboard?
imgadgetman
I carry the Fenix P1D in my pocket as a backup. When I put in a fresh surefire it measures 3.27v. Two months later without using it the voltage is about 3.10. It is a twisty so I cannot twist it enough to stop contact with the spring. Also I carry a Fenix LOD as a backup to my backup and it seems to have the same parasitic drain. I was thinking of doing a voltage drop check for one month on both of these comparing it to my P3D CE with clicky. If I want to stop parasitic drain, what material would be the best to place between battery and positive end contact? Plastic is available with very thin layers, cardboard?
imgadgetman
It is now 31 months. The thread is over on Marketplace.You should be able to put your HDS away for a number of years and not have the battery go flat.
I was searching for the HDS beacon run time test but cant find it, I think it is well over 12 months now.
Norm
The Ra is not your normal twisty. Curent goes through the threads at all times (including a very small parasitic drain). The loops of wires are just signal wires. The microprocessor looks for the signals to tell it what mode to be in.I was pretty sure the RA Twisty did not have parasitic drain, only the Clicky. Only lights with electronic clickies have parasitic drain.
The P1D and LOP don't have a tailcap to unscrew. So that doesn't help imgadgetman.As TurboMan suggested in a similar thread, with many flashlights you can simply unthread the tail cap so that the battery is disconnected. I store my Fenix L2D in my briefcase that way. It also protects against accidentally turning it on while it is a bag or pocket, etc.
We are not sure that the P1D and LOP have "parasitic drain", so let us not jump to conclusions. We need good data not just us guessing around. Too much subjective stuff going on.
Bill
They don't. Not guessing, just the nature of their construction.
They don't. Not guessing, just the nature of their construction.
Hi Marduke, uh, the nature of whose construction? Please explain, thanks,
Bill
All LiteFlux has a standby drain, but it is usual very low.
I have measured LF2X to 5uA on NiMH and 20uA on LiIon. That means that you have to recharge LiIon each year and on AAA batteries you just uses their "use before" date, the drain will not empty the battery premature.
Thank you for starting this thread OP.
My EDC an LF2X, drains it's battery pretty significantly in about 2 months. It's ok for an EDC, I just make sure I charge it once a month, but that would bug me for an occasional use flashlight. Especially if I had primaries in it!!
Do you think the new Olight M30 or the Eagletac M2X will have parasitic drains? I think the Eagletac won't, especially not if you install the tactical clicky.
The Eagletac M2 and M2X does seem to have a "parasitic drain" until you install the optional clicky switch. The switch does in fact lock out the drain. I believe that I have read .7mA standby drain without the switch installed.
That sounds high, 0.7mA drain. Maybe 0.007mA would be more like it.
Bill