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Sold/Expired FS: -----Solid COPPER MT-G2 Heat Sinks----!! Direct solder bond capable!

vestureofblood

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Jun 19, 2008
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Missouri
All sold: -----Solid COPPER MT-G2 Heat Sinks----!! Direct solder bond capable!

Hi all, ALL SOLD THANKS EYE CANDY IN POST 21


I am having a batch of solid copper heat sinks made for use with Cree MT-G2 in a Maglite. These sinks will be machined/milled from solid 1-1/2" Tellurium copper rod.

Here is an aluminum copper hybrid one I had made before. This picture is just for reference, so you can see what it looks like, the batch for sale will be solid copper NO aluminum.



As you can see there is a milled pocket to assist with centering the LED.


The pedistal is .500 tall for a variety of reasons.

1. Most important is that the emitter can be reflow SOLDERED DIRECTLY TO THE SINK and you can still then get you soldering iron under it to solder on the wires.

2. The added height makes it possible to use this with large deep reflectors that have been bored to 16mm like the Fivemega throwmaster and the 3" heads. This will reach the emitter high enough to get full focus.



Here is what it looks like in a thowmaster head.





The only other variance in the sinks from the one in the picture besides being of solid copper and not a hybrid is there will NOT be a set screw in the sink, they be a snug but not tight fit in a mag neck and a dab of epoxy will be needed to secure them.


Using this direct bond system you can easily push the MT-G2 emitter to a full 6000ma with a 6V led. That is DOUBLE what they are rated for. That is the equivalent of FOUR XM-L2 emitters worth of current in ONE SINGLE DIE!!!!! :eek:
Literally THOUSANDS of lumens from a single emitter. With this we are nearly creeping up on incan bulb capability.



Prices are as follows.

1pc........$74.50
2pc........$68.40 each
3pc........$64.90 each
5+pc......$52.25 each

NEW PRICE BRACKET ADJUSTMENTS

1pc........$68.50
2pc........$63.32 each
3pc........$55.90 each
5+pc......$49.25 each





Please also MAKE A NOTE IN PAYPAL. Please leave your CPF handle and how many sinks you want. <----- This is important so please don't forget.



ALL SOLD THANKS>



Thanks everyone, and happy modding.
 
Last edited:

bigchelis

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Oct 30, 2008
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Prunedale, CA
Great idea.

how do you prevent the MTG2 emitter from having a short when soldered directly to the heatsink? or is the MTG2 not affected this way?

how do you successfully bond that bare LED directly to the copper? stove, iron, lighter, torch flame? This is very advanced and complex task IMHO, but if there is an easy way to successfully do this I am all ears per say! I definitely want at least 2 sinks.


Best,
bigC
 

vestureofblood

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Jun 19, 2008
Messages
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Missouri
Hey bigC,

I am glad you asked. I suppose it would be a smart thing for me to stop assuming everyone does this on a regular basis LOL.

Only the heat transfer pad on the bottom of the emitter makes contact with the sink. The pedistal has edges to center the emitter vertically, and is exactly the width of the pad on the bottom of the led so it will center horizontally when you reflow it.

Direct bond to a copper core can be very challenging which is exactly why this sink is designed the way it is. With the centering helps and the long pedistal it will be significantly easier that fumbling copper rods and the like.

Here is how I do this.

Using Kester no clean solder paste dab just enough to cover the led pocket when the solder is wet. Get enough to cover it, but dont go nuts. Place the emitter and then set it in a skillet ( preferably an electric, but any will work)

Turn the heat on to just above what it takes to wet the solder. I start with the skillet off so the led warms more slowly. Since this sink is so massive you will have to go hotter than normal. With MCPCBs I usually set my skillet to about 375-400F, but with this sink 425 and the lid is needed. If your skillet will not wet the solder after about 1 minute of reaching full temp a torch can be used as a boost, but I highly discourage using only the torch as it will get the sink very hot very fast and can cause the solder to boil and the rapid expansion of the LED like that can even damage the emitter.

Once the solder wets the emitter should slide around just slightly if you have enough. To ensure you did not get to much give the dome of the emitter a quick GENTLE "tap". This will push out any extra solder to ensure you dont have the emitter floating on a blob of solder. Its still best not to get carried away with the solder. Most often it will shoot out as little beads and there is no problem, but if you have way too much it can stay stuck under there and possibly get in the way of the wires.


Once this is done just cut the power from the skillet and wait for the solder to harden. Once the sink is cool enough to remove from the pan you can proceed to solder the wires on.

You will need a fairly robust soldering iron to get this done. Mine is a 30W, but higher would be better. A fairly wide tip is also needed. Step one here for me is to treat the wire connections with some kester no clean liquid flux. Next quickly tin the + and - led taps. Also tin the wires, and then recoat both with the no clean liquid flux ( or what ever you have). With a hot iron and said provisions made you should be able to attach the leads in about 1 second.

Next just thread the wires though the holes and your good:party:.

If for some reason the solder does not wet within about 2-3 seconds while your were attaching the leads, just STOP. Pressing harder on the led or holding it there a long time will do nothing but get you into trouble. Holding it there long enough will even dislodge the emitter or worse (guess how I know that :oops:).



If the steps above have been followed, and you have a good hot iron its reasonably simple. If for some reason you could not get the solder to wet for the leads dont worry, you still have a way forward. Just try not to get frustrated, take a minute to relax and then try again with some help. An easy way to turbo charge your soldering iron is to clean the tip, and re-tin it, and give it a little blast with your torch. If I ever need a boost I just kick on the torch and hit just below the tip of the iron right before making the solder joint.


I realize that what I just said may sound like a lot to do, and maybe it is, but getting exceptional results often takes a bit of time. All I can tell you is that its worth while to take the extra steps mentioned. In the long run your payment will be a ranging inferno of OTF flashlight lumens!
 

carl

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Nov 2, 2001
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los angeles
Double Whoa. Now if there were just some way to run an MT-G2 in one of your shorty mags!
 
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bigchelis

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Oct 30, 2008
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Prunedale, CA
Double Whoa. Now if there were just some way to run an MT-G2 in one of your shorty mags!


They fit inside full size 2D Mags pretty easy.

Run 2*26650's via direct drive or with driver and you get a ton of easy to build power.


bigC
 

vestureofblood

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Jun 19, 2008
Messages
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Location
Missouri
Hi all,

I now have a total of 8 sinks sold which uses the whole first stick of copper. This puts the sale in a new price bracket!
New pricing is included in red in the OP. Everyone who prepaid is being refunded accordingly.
 

Mr. Tone

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Jul 2, 2009
Messages
2,350
Location
Illinois
Very nice work, these sinks look impressive. It is too bad bigchelis does not still have his sphere to let us know what kind of OTF he gets when the project is completed.
 

vestureofblood

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 19, 2008
Messages
3,210
Location
Missouri
Were making progress gents. Should be shipping orders within the next couple days.


bo72Ls.jpg



TiotRR.jpg
 

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