G2Z waterproofness

[m1ruf]

Just let my G2Z sit in the sink (just covered with water) while beeing switched on.
I took it out about 5 mins later and to my suprise discovered that it had leaked by the tailcap.

Is there anything I can do to make it more waterproof? A bigger (thicker) o-ring maybe.

By the way I haven't lubricated the o-rings for a while and they seemed pretty "dry" to me (before the dunking), but in now way damaged (and no there wasn't a hair or anything between the bosy and the o-ring).

Any ideas?

 

[CLHC]

Just curious here; are there two O-rings on the tailcap threading? If only one, then there should be another spot for a second one. Otherwise you may have to lubricate them? :thinking:

 

[m1ruf]

Nah there's just one. I'm not sure if this was constructed by intention but there seems to be a spot for a second o-ring at the end of thread (closer to the top end then the 1st o-ring(and only)).
Just like 0,5mm from the existing o-ring.

 

[CLHC]

On some of my SureFire models, there's either one or two O-rings on the TC threading. My Millennium Series have two, while the others have only one. My SF.6P has an open "slot" for another O-ring if so desired. I lost my SF.G2 and don't remember if there's one or two, possibly one.

 

[FAAbUlights]

You should always keep the O rings well lubricated when using a light in water. This should solve the problem.

 

[ACMarina]

G2 has a spot for a second one. Even so, it's not a divelight and you'd better be careful with it - none of my Surefire lights are something I'd want to dive with..

 

[Illum]

most people rely on the O-rings to keep water out when it is, in fact, the lubricant that binds the seams...
If you take it down to microscopic levels....ypu'll find O-rings surface to be more jagged than paper...with that in mind its easy to understand why having O-rings alone doesnt cut it for waterproofing a light, especially if its for diving

when you do lube it make sure to apply it a bit thick...especially under and around the o-ing, not just above it and surrounding threads :thumbsup:

 

[m1ruf]

I'm a diver myself and I'm aware that the G2z is NOT a dive light.
For diving I use an UK C8 incan as my main dive light and a UK Mini Q 40 (waterproof version of 4AA) as a backup.:thumbsup:

Nevertheless I think the G2Z should be able to take a dunking in a few cm of water for some time!
I'll get second o-ring and some silicon grease and see how I'll go...

thx guys:goodjob:

 

[CLHC]

I'll have to agree with you on that m1ruf, regarding the SF.G2Z should be able to take a little bath. I'm guessing "water-resistant" it is, than "water-proof." Although SureFire does have dive rated models such as the SF.6PN.

What surprised me is that on my "older" SureFire 6Z, it has double O-rings while your SureFire G2Z has only one? Interesting.

Also a side point, I noticed one of the guys I work with using Vaseline on the threads of his beat-up SF.G2. I thought I read somewhere on SureFire's manuals not to use petroleum-based lubricant on their O-rings?

Enjoy!

 

[Size15's]

This is perhaps the main reason why SureFire doesn't rate it's lights waterproof as standard - because users must keep the o-ring seals in sufficient order to ensure quality seals.

Double o-rings are only required where you may need to rotate a component underwater.

Al

 

[roadie]

did u know that by turning "full" on , there will be a better seal ..... thus testes are actually conducted via a full ON which is "completely sealed" , then a half screw one ...

 

[roadie]

some divers told me before that before they get into the water, they will "on" their lights, for knowing its a working light and also for the "complete" sealed on the lights (some like models of Underwater kinetics , like UK 4 aa ...etc)

thus u may "wish" to conduct another test (if u wan) via a Full ON then do the 'donking' tests ....

 

[RAF_Groundcrew]

Regarding single/ double O rings... I fitted a second O ring to my G2 to make the tailcap harder to turn, for safety in storage. My G2z has a groove for another O ring, but when I tried to fit one, I couldn't get the tailcap back on, so it appears the groove is not for this purpose. Same on my original old 9P, there is a groove, but a second O ring makes it impossible to fit the tailcap.

On all my SF lights that will accept one, I have fitted the second O ring.

 

[pyro]

Hi folks,
you could add about forty two o-rings and it would not help at all.
I had the same problem when i got my G2Z.
Found out that i even could blow air through the tailcap! (while changing batteries)

The fix:
-Tear the spring out of the tailcap
-Find a fitting hex wrench and screw out the little screw
-take out the metal plunger
-now you see a threaded plastic part screwed in the tailcap,
use a broad screwdriver and tighten it as good as you can
without damaging it
-optional: if you are perfectionist add some of the lube you use on
the o-rings where the rubber button gets pressed against the tailcap
-reassemble everything and be happy

This helped my G2z, YMMV.

 

[CLHC]

My G2z has a groove for another O ring, but when I tried to fit one, I couldn't get the tailcap back on, so it appears the groove is not for this purpose. Same on my original old 9P, there is a groove, but a second O ring makes it impossible to fit the tailcap.

I have three (3) of the older style SureFire 9Ps and these have double O-rings already on them. Turning the tailcap does have resistance but not impossible to twist. At least, I'll know I'm turning it and not all by itself. Then again, maybe each individual unit could be ever so slightly different one from another?

Enjoy!

 

[roadie]

abit off track ...

thats why i still have my UK SL6 with me .... to be prepare for any 'wet' environment ahead ,

rated abt from 120 to 200 lumens .... ?? (8 watts)
running on 6 C cell, yeah big and bulky ... a couple of hrs runtime ...