good strap wrench.
- Thread starter snakebite
- Start date
shortstack
Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2008
- Messages
- 239
I hd bought some "smaller" 6" craftsmans ones which also broke, you need ones that are thick (rubber).
seen the craftsman ones.look just like the hf.
the guy at hf looked at me and said they are not gorilla proof.
i suspect they were just junk.
a neighbor had some from snap on that worked last time but they are nla on the site.
the guy at hf looked at me and said they are not gorilla proof.
i suspect they were just junk.
a neighbor had some from snap on that worked last time but they are nla on the site.
Flashlike
Enlightened
You might try checking on Eb@y.
I saw one on there made by Klein Tools and according to the description it sounds like a decent quality strap wrench.
Quite a few of them have the "Buy it Now" so no need to go through a bidding war to get them.
I saw one on there made by Klein Tools and according to the description it sounds like a decent quality strap wrench.
Quite a few of them have the "Buy it Now" so no need to go through a bidding war to get them.
The best small strap wrench I have found is a Lowell S6 but...
The best way I have found to open first run ARC LS heads is to drill a hole the diameter of the LS head in a block of wood and then cut it in half giving you a couple of vise pads with half of a hole in them. It is important that the hole is a good fit so you don't bend the head oval. Repeat the process with a thinner block of wood to make pads that fit the bezel. Wrap a bit of rubber tape around the head and clamp it firmly in a vise using your wood blocks and leaving the bezel exposed. Clamp the smaller blocks around the bezel after applying rubber tape ( a wooden "hand screw" clamp centered over the light works well ). Unscrew... The head or bezel probably will slip in the pads, tighten clamp/vise as needed, or apply heat and re-try. It is much easier to break the locktite bond if the head is warm, but doing all this fiddly clamping and taping before the light cools off is not easy, so I sometimes heated the bezel with a heat gun a bit while the head was already clamped, this can have bad effects on the optic if you are careless...
WARNING! ARC LS 1st generation heads were assembled while the potting on the circuit boards was wet. It is about 50/50 in my experience that the board will come out attached to the bottom of the bezel. Prying it off will result in components being pulled off the board, usually the inductors or capacitors. Not an issue if you were planning on replacing the electronics too...
The best way I have found to open first run ARC LS heads is to drill a hole the diameter of the LS head in a block of wood and then cut it in half giving you a couple of vise pads with half of a hole in them. It is important that the hole is a good fit so you don't bend the head oval. Repeat the process with a thinner block of wood to make pads that fit the bezel. Wrap a bit of rubber tape around the head and clamp it firmly in a vise using your wood blocks and leaving the bezel exposed. Clamp the smaller blocks around the bezel after applying rubber tape ( a wooden "hand screw" clamp centered over the light works well ). Unscrew... The head or bezel probably will slip in the pads, tighten clamp/vise as needed, or apply heat and re-try. It is much easier to break the locktite bond if the head is warm, but doing all this fiddly clamping and taping before the light cools off is not easy, so I sometimes heated the bezel with a heat gun a bit while the head was already clamped, this can have bad effects on the optic if you are careless...
WARNING! ARC LS 1st generation heads were assembled while the potting on the circuit boards was wet. It is about 50/50 in my experience that the board will come out attached to the bottom of the bezel. Prying it off will result in components being pulled off the board, usually the inductors or capacitors. Not an issue if you were planning on replacing the electronics too...
They do look nice. The only problem is they apparently don't want you to buy their products. A google search shows absolutely nobody selling the S6. Can't even find a single distributor and Lowell says on their own website they do not post who the distributors are. I don't want to have to contact them. I simply want to click a few buttons and have it be on its way. Grr. If you know of a distributor please let me know otherwise I'll just go get me a Klein. Thanks.
The rigid won't break but the nylon strap slips and the one I've used was very wide, a bit overkill for an EDC
Kobalt (sold at Lowe's) makes some good strap wrenches. They are sold in a two pack, with one large and one small. I find that they will open most any light that I can get the strap around. The only drawback is that the buckle can scratch a light if you are not careful. I like the fact that they are guaranteed for life. I am on my second set.
Kestrel
Flashaholic
Very helpful, I need a set myself and will check these out. Funny thing but I was searching the net for recommendations for these and one of the first Google links took me back home to CPF. :)
An ex-plumber friend of mine recommended Rigid as well but the two I'd be buying are 2x $35 = $70 and its unclear if the strap will be grippy enough for Flashlight heads.
zelda
Enlightened
an alternative method for small diameter with a lot of power:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...h-glued-threads-HOWTO-without-tools-no-damage!!!
Instead of rubber bands, I use bycicle hose.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...h-glued-threads-HOWTO-without-tools-no-damage!!!
Instead of rubber bands, I use bycicle hose.
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