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Remove o-ring and clean it. Use rag which is damp with isopropyl alcohol.

wipe off all grease with a rag, using fingernail through rag into threads.

Remove grease from head with q-tip, and round wooden toothpick around in the threads while you turn the head. Repeat until q-tips come clean.

Re-lube (with something recommended at CPF) in the o-ring slot. Install o-ring, apply new lube to outside of o-ring and tube threads.

The "grinding threads" issue might not be caused by the threads being dirty.

Aparently, titanium is one of the metals that has galling problems. Seems it is the worst of all metals for galling.

I found a few commentaries about titanium galling that might be helpful.
I'm not associated with either source:

"Another shortcoming and that most often associated with titanium is galling. When titanium slides against titanium it tends to gall or stick more so than any other metal combination. Similarly, titanium to titanium parts in threaded combination “cold weld” making disassembly impossible without destroying the parts. In order to prevent this, typically dry film lubricants are applied over suitably prepared titanium (i.e. either anodized or conversion coated)."

extracted from: http://www.finishing.com/Library/titanium.html

(I doubt any Illuminati owner needs to worry about the threads freezing solid, but it does sound to me like people are experiencing galling.)

"PREVENTION OF GALLING
Galling not only causes excessive wear on titanium but may also result in accelerated corrosion through fretting action. Simple lubrication, using graphite or molybdenum disulfide, is often sufficient to overcome galling. It is, therefore, possible to use titanium for moving parts or for parts in sliding contact with itself or other metals with light to moderate loads."


extracted from: http://www.timet.com/fab-p34.htm

As stated above, it looks like dry film lubricant is the solution.
My guess is the cleaner you get your threads, (without any added lubricant) the worse they will gall.

Edited to add: I don't mean to suggest it isn't good to clean your equipment. Sometimes items do have manufacturing debris in them, and cleaning is a great practice to care for your equipment.
I just wanted to warn people that were having continuing grittiness after cleaning, that additional and even more thorough cleaning probably won't be the solution.
 
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As stated above, it looks like dry film lubricant is the solution.
My guess is the cleaner you get your threads, (without any added lubricant) the worse they will gall.

I think the previous commentaries about cleaning threads were intended as to prepare them for lubing properly and I agree it's better to clean the threads up before lubing, otherwise you'll get an undesirable effect.
So, I should try first with a bit of graphite powder (as I don't have molybdenum disulfide...)

Thanks TXlight for your informative post. I hope to receive my Illuminati's soon and experiment with them all suggested here to avoid galling.
From what I'm reading got the impression these ones gonna be my first and last twisties in titanium. Definetely I'll wait for the Aluminium release...
 
A method that I have used and worked for me is to take out the battery, lube up the threads put the head one and as you are tightening use a bit of force pushing the head and body together and when loosening pull them apart as you are turning. Do this a number of times and it will break away any burrs. I didn't have to do this with my iluminati as it came with smooth turning threads, but it was the way I got my preon to work one handed. YMMV.

I just tried this with my Preon Black Ti and it worked like a charm. Will try this on my Quark Ti next.
 
The "grinding threads" issue might not be caused by the threads being dirty.... Aparently, titanium is one of the metals that has galling problems. Seems it is the worst of all metals for galling.....

hummm... while technically true, that's not my experience so far: my Ti Sapphire has the smoothest threads of any light i've ever owned. and my Ti Makos have wonderfully smooth threads too.... i just think these threads weren't finish quite so nicely. but with every other aspect of my Illuminati i'm very happy. its a keeper!
 
Its hard to tell but I dont think it is twice as bright. The illuminati has so much more spill and its so much brighter spill its hard to judge. The hot spot is of course brighter too, but the big difference is in the spill.

Alot of people including myself, have been complaining about the threads and they are definitely a bit tricky, but I think a big part of it is that I have never owned a titanium light before. The more I use it the smoother it becomes and the I am definitely enjoying the other benefits of the titanium as well. Its been banging against my keys for 4 days now and it still shines.
 
I ordered my Illuminati on Sunday too, now I see it is back ordered to ~12/6/09

That may be a good thing. I'm thinking of canceling my order because of all the problems with the nitty gritty twisty.

Has anybody experienced the gritty twist and cured it with graphite?

And if it isn't cured with the graphite can one get a refund after putting graphite on it? Or twisting it 100 times with the above mentioned pulling-pressing pressure?

Battery Junction requires one to get a RMA (return merchandise authorization) first, then pay for shipping and Insurance which is understandable, but a hassle.

Waiting for an Aluminum one might be worth it, especially if its M-L-H with a low low (1.5).

hmmmmm:thinking:
 
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A co worker got one and brought it in today,very nice looking great beam.
But it cycles mid,low,high. no question does it every time,does anyone elses do that?they are supposed to be L,M,H.:thinking:

He likes the mid first,I thought I read that they might try it wiith different levels,maybe he got a prototype!:oops::twothumbs
 
A co worker got one and brought it in today,very nice looking great beam.
But it cycles mid,low,high. no question does it every time,does anyone elses do that?they are supposed to be L,M,H.:thinking:

He likes the mid first,I thought I read that they might try it wiith different levels,maybe he got a prototype!:oops::twothumbs

There is another report of a M-L-H IlluminaTi in the review thread. Sounds like the factory just used drivers with the wrong programming... just like they assembled a few hundred with the wrong emitter. Looks like the assembly line is not as rigorous as the machine shop.
 
That may be a good thing. I'm thinking of canceling my order because of all the problems with the nitty gritty twisty.

Mine is an Xp-G R5 with M>L>H with threads like butter. Maybe I got lucky.

My IlluminaTi threads are in fact much better than my Quark Ti light threads. On my Quark Ti lights a quick clean up with a dremel and a wire wheel bit did wonders. I also use Shin-Etsu silicone lube on the threads.
 
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I'm going to be upset if my XP-E Q5 version is M-L-H. The only reason I bought this is based on the L-M-H UI.
 
Alot of people seem to be interested in them, so Im sure you could get full value for it in the marketplace, and Matt seems like a good guy I'm sure he'd take it back too.
 
Let's see when I receive the 2 ones I ordered (still waiting...).
If I'm really lucky it would be one of each sequence and both XP-G :D.
 
The XP-G R5 are all L-M-H right ? While the XP-E Q5 have either M-L-H or L-M-H option. I pre-ordered the R5, hope it is L-M-H when it reaches me.
 
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