Got My Illuminati!

[spellitout]

My Illuminati has by far the worst threads I have ever encountered.

I have spent nearly 2 hours twisting and cleaning the threads to the point I have blisters on both index fingers. There has been a slight improvement, but still feels like twisting gravel.

I really like this light a lot, so I'll spend some more time with it tomorrow while watching football. However, if there isn't a significant improvement, I will unfortunetely be returning it on Monday.

 

[Henk_Lu]

My Illuminati has by far the worst threads I have ever encountered.

I have spent nearly 2 hours twisting and cleaning the threads to the point I have blisters on both index fingers. There has been a slight improvement, but still feels like twisting gravel.

I really like this light a lot, so I'll spend some more time with it tomorrow while watching football. However, if there isn't a significant improvement, I will unfortunetely be returning it on Monday.

I also have titanium lights with such threads. I think, if they are crunchy and don't improve after a quarter of a quarter of an hour breaking in procedure followed by thoroug cleaning and lubing with the right stuff, you'd better live with it or by an aluminium light.

You may inspect the threads, most titanium Quarks for example had not well worked threads, it's the beginning on top where I even ripped of a ti-span with my fingers. Don't ask me how to get a nice finish on ti-threads without the right equipment and don't ask me how to do anything in the head, especially on an AAA light...

 

[Larbo]

The only good about tight threads on these Ti lights is they wont fall apart and lose the head if you have it around your neck on a lanyard.

 

[eric_wolf]

My Illuminati has by far the worst threads I have ever encountered.

Received mine yesterday. It too has a very gritty feel. It is night and day compared to my Fenix - the Fenix is silky smooth and this feels like there is gravel. I too spent a good chunk of time cleaning. That made some improvement but I have to get a decent lube. The ones I have at home will harm the o-ring so that is the final step that I hope will improve the feel. The Illuminati is a bit brighter with better spill/flood compared to the Fenix L0D. It does a better job of fully illuminating an area. Given the difference in Lumens I expected there to be a huge difference. While there is a difference, it wasn't as large as I expected. I like the Illuminati and it is on my keychain for now....However, after the novelty wares off, the Fenix may be back based on the look and feel of the light.

 

[spellitout]

I've never owned a ti light, so I guess that could be the the reason. I certainly wasn't expecting ti threads to be like this. I too agree that my lod and stainless ldo1 are "silky smooth", so maybe I have just been spoiled.

The illuminati with 14440 isn't as bright as my ldo1 with 14440, but I love everything else about the light, so I really wish the threads were smoother. As it is now, I can only use it with two hands so my other my other lighting options make better edcs IMO.

I love the size and weight of this light over my ss ldo1, so mybe i'll give the alum. maratac a shot.

 

[sol-leks]

Received mine yesterday. It too has a very gritty feel. It is night and day compared to my Fenix - the Fenix is silky smooth and this feels like there is gravel. I too spent a good chunk of time cleaning. That made some improvement but I have to get a decent lube. The ones I have at home will harm the o-ring so that is the final step that I hope will improve the feel. The Illuminati is a bit brighter with better spill/flood compared to the Fenix L0D. It does a better job of fully illuminating an area. Given the difference in Lumens I expected there to be a huge difference. While there is a difference, it wasn't as large as I expected. I like the Illuminati and it is on my keychain for now....However, after the novelty wares off, the Fenix may be back based on the look and feel of the light.

I understand what you mean. It is not shockingly brighter. However, I think a big part of this is because a lot of the extra brightness in the Illuminati is in the spill which is significantly larger and brighter imo, while the hot spot is brighter but not by that much. I think this improved spill and also the OP reflector which I am very fond of while not making this light immediately astoundingly brighter, do as you said illuminate areas far better. As far as the threads, I have to agree unfortunately that they are quite a downer. Although working it and cleaning it extensively over the last 24 hours has helped considerably. It definitely does not have the smooth action of the LOD.

 

[sol-leks]

I love the size and weight of this light over my ss ldo1, so mybe i'll give the alum. maratac a shot.

Well Matt has said he is going to make an aluminum version of this light as well so maybe that will be a good light to look out for if it is the titanium that is the problem.

 

[spellitout]

Well Matt has said he is going to make an aluminum version of this light as well so maybe that will be a good light to look out for if it is the titanium that is the problem.

I forgot he has said that...I'd definitely give that a try. :twothumbs

 

[EngrPaul]

Your threads may have a burr. When you wipe them with a tissue, burrs will catch the tissue as a visual indicator. If you have a magnifying glass, you can usually lift up and knock off the burr with something like a dental pick or even a strong toothpick.

For lower friction, you can also swapping out to a weaker spring from one of your Fenix. The one in the illuminati is stainless steel, which is disappointing because it provides a little too much force and lower conductivity than a Fenix spring. The Fenix LD01 uses a gold plated copper alloy. Although thinner, it will have better conductivity and provide adequate force for the battery contacts.

 

[kts]

I understand what you mean. It is not shockingly brighter. However, I think a big part of this is because a lot of the extra brightness in the Illuminati is in the spill which is significantly larger and brighter imo, while the hot spot is brighter but not by that much. I think this improved spill and also the OP reflector which I am very fond of while not making this light immediately astoundingly brighter, do as you said illuminate areas far better. As far as the threads, I have to agree unfortunately that they are quite a downer. Although working it and cleaning it extensively over the last 24 hours has helped considerably. It definitely does not have the smooth action of the LOD.

Your L0D CE is the old P4..50 lumens right?

My SS LD01 stomps my old L0D CE, it looks twice as bright.

I would like to see a comparison beamshot...SS LD01 VS Illuminati, if anyone got both

 

[konut]

The only good about tight threads on these Ti lights is they wont fall apart and lose the head if you have it around your neck on a lanyard.

Or in your pocket.

 

[MKLight]

Your threads may have a burr. When you wipe them with a tissue, burrs will catch the tissue as a visual indicator. If you have a magnifying glass, you can usually lift up and knock off the burr with something like a dental pick or even a strong toothpick.

For lower friction, you can also swapping out to a weaker spring from one of your Fenix. The one in the illuminati is stainless steel, which is disappointing because it provides a little too much force and lower conductivity than a Fenix spring. The Fenix LD01 uses a gold plated copper alloy. Although thinner, it will have better conductivity and provide adequate force for the battery contacts.

Thanks, Paul. I've been having problems with the Illuminati not cycling properly through the modes. Sometimes it starts off at low to medium to high; sometimes not. It has been erratic and I was thinking about contacting Matt. It sounds like the "new" spring may do the trick. I'll try it out.

Thanks again,
MK

EDIT: How is your Maratac SS AAA? Mine works perfectly. Does it have a different spring or just a lottery thing? Thx!

 

[Henk_Lu]

The illuminati with 14440 isn't as bright as my ldo1 with 14440...

Matt doesn't recommend the use of 10440. Not only because the IlluminaTi could go into the hidden grenade mode with those cells, but also because the LED is overdriven by them, it can't take 4.2 Volt! :tsk:

 

[Vee3]

A good titanium lubricant is powdered MDS (molybdenum disulphide).

I don't know how well it would work when dry, but a lube that orthopedic surgeons use when assembling titanium implants is blood. Almost everyone has that on (or in) hand.

Probably works better if you eat a lot of fried food...

 

[fnj]

Thanks, Paul. I've been having problems with the Illuminati not cycling properly through the modes. Sometimes it starts off at low to medium to high; sometimes not. It has been erratic and I was thinking about contacting Matt. It sounds like the "new" spring may do the trick. I'll try it out.

The reason it appears to be erratic is almost certainly because of rough threads. If they are binding slightly, it can be tricky to get a single clean engagement/disengagement of the circuit. Even if the current is interrupted for an instant during engagement, the light will see this as an on/off cycle and go to the next mode. It's the downside of this dead simple switching method. It will last forever, and will never suddenly and permanently fail like a clicky, or a more complicated twisty, can, but it can glitch. If the designer would lengthen the required off time just slightly, the IlluminaTi would be less prone to this kind of glitch.

Nyogel 760 after cleaning the threads, deburring if necessary, plus making deliberate smart on/off cycles, does help. Several times in succession if necessary.

 

[EngrPaul]

Thanks, Paul. I've been having problems with the Illuminati not cycling properly through the modes. Sometimes it starts off at low to medium to high; sometimes not. It has been erratic and I was thinking about contacting Matt. It sounds like the "new" spring may do the trick. I'll try it out.

Thanks again,
MK

EDIT: How is your Maratac SS AAA? Mine works perfectly. Does it have a different spring or just a lottery thing? Thx!

Clean the bottom of the tube with isopropyl alcohol on a swab when changing the spring. It could be dirty down there in the bottom corner of the tube (mine wasn't thought). Also clean the board inside the head, but don't get alcohol in the head.

The maratec works fine. It also gets a S/S spring, same story.

 

[olrac]

A method that I have used and worked for me is to take out the battery, lube up the threads put the head one and as you are tightening use a bit of force pushing the head and body together and when loosening pull them apart as you are turning. Do this a number of times and it will break away any burrs. I didn't have to do this with my iluminati as it came with smooth turning threads, but it was the way I got my preon to work one handed. YMMV.

 

[MKLight]

The reason it appears to be erratic is almost certainly because of rough threads. If they are binding slightly, it can be tricky to get a single clean engagement/disengagement of the circuit. Even if the current is interrupted for an instant during engagement, the light will see this as an on/off cycle and go to the next mode. It's the downside of this dead simple switching method. It will last forever, and will never suddenly and permanently fail like a clicky, or a more complicated twisty, can, but it can glitch. If the designer would lengthen the required off time just slightly, the IlluminaTi would be less prone to this kind of glitch.

Nyogel 760 after cleaning the threads, deburring if necessary, plus making deliberate smart on/off cycles, does help. Several times in succession if necessary.

fnj - thanks for the explanation. That is very interesting and makes total sense.

Clean the bottom of the tube with isopropyl alcohol on a swab when changing the spring. It could be dirty down there in the bottom corner of the tube (mine wasn't thought). Also clean the board inside the head, but don't get alcohol in the head.

The maratec works fine. It also gets a S/S spring, same story.

EngrPaul - When switching out the spring, I noticed the bottom of the tube was dirty. I usually take everything apart when I get a light, but I obviously didn't do that this time...oops! I took everything apart and accidentally put too much alcohol on the q-tip and it went into the head. I think it's dried out...and the light works fine...but now it looks like moisture was in there. I'm debating whether or not to try to try to open the head or not.

A method that I have used and worked for me is to take out the battery, lube up the threads put the head one and as you are tightening use a bit of force pushing the head and body together and when loosening pull them apart as you are turning. Do this a number of times and it will break away any burrs. I didn't have to do this with my iluminati as it came with smooth turning threads, but it was the way I got my preon to work one handed. YMMV.

olrac - Good advice! I usually do that, too. It hasn't helped much on the threading of my iluminati...yet...and I've gone through several hundred, if not more, cycles. It worked for the Preon for me, too, though. I was thinking of taking a Dremel with a polishing bit to the threads. I've tried different lubes. I think it just needs more on-off/push-pull cycles...

Thanks for your help, guys!
MK

 

[EngrPaul]

now it looks like moisture was in there. I'm debating whether or not to try to try to open the head or not.

No, you don't want to do that. Any moisture should evaporate in use, or you could leave it open overnight.

 

[MKLight]

I let it air dry over night. I just looked at it and the reflector has a slight haze to it - instead of looking like a shiny OP reflector, it looks like a dull reflector. It actually looks very uniform, perfect - like I tried to do that. The inside of the lens has some residue on the outside circumference...which does not look uniform or perfect. The emitter itself doesn't look like it was touched at all. I don't notice any difference in output when compared to my Maratac SS. The Illuminati is still slightly brighter.

Do you have any suggestions on "fixing" the lens...or do I have to chalk it up to experience - this may become my brother's new AAA and I may need to get another...

Thanks!
MK