Greg's 2D 3x123 nFlex mod (now with beam shots)

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greg_in_canada

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Jun 7, 2004
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Saskatoon SK Canada
Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod (now with beam shots)

[Edit: the light is complete. See photos and text
further down the page.]

RSmod_1.jpg


It's not complete but it is working so I thought I'd
share my progress with you.

For the battery holder I used the CPVC pipe that others
have used. I wasn't too happy with the idea of duct tape
to build up the thickness so I found the gray electrical
conduit connectors. They are a bit oversized but have
a shoulder in the middle. I drilled out the shoulder
with a 3/4" spade bit so they now friction fit over the
CPVC pipe. Eventually I'll epoxy them in place (since
they now can wobble due to contacting only in the middle).

CR123x3_holder.jpg


For the spacer I used 5/8" dowel and drilled a hole for
the screw to go through. The big washer makes contact
with the D-sized spring on the maglite.

spacer.jpg


bottom_view.jpg


I wanted to have a power switch to completely
turn off the nFlex when it isn't going to be used for
a long time (to save the 0.2 mA sleep current). I didn't
want to do another tail switch (like in my 3-cubed) mod
to keep the light as short as possible. So I went with a
pushbutton switch in the barrel.

I put the switch on the bottom of the light since it
seemed that there wasn't room between the head and the
switch bevel on the top. I was judging this by where the
naked mag head bottomed out. With a properly trimmed
reflector and the O-sink in place there may have been
room (I haven't cut my reflector yet).

pushbutton.jpg


In any case I had to mount the nFlex off center to
leave room for the pushbutton switch. I got a pair of
them at Radio Shack an pulled off the cap and cut the
shaft off where the cap grabbed. I still could shorten
it a bit more since the throw is about 1/2 the visible
length of shaft.

top_view.jpg


In a different thread I mentioned I hadn't run the
LED at 1000 mA yet because I was only running on 2x123.
Now that I whipped up the 3x123 spacer I have tried out
the 1000 mA setting and it works great.

The pushbutton on the bottom seems to work well. You
can hold the light with your thumb over the mag power
switch and use your index finger to operate the pushbutton
or turn it over and use your thumb on the pushbutton.

I still have lots to do to finish it but it's looking
(and working) good so far.

Greg
 
Last edited:
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

Greg,

Why does it need a power switch while you can unscrew the tailcap just half a turn and it's off? Unless the thread is not anodized and conducting.

I just twist it off when I am not using the light or when I am programming the power level which require you to power off and hold the switch. Nice pictures and good sharing. Thanks.

Henry
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

Good question. I've never checked if you can reliably
turn the light on and off via the tailcap.

I would be worried that after some time using this method
the anodizing would wear off and you would sometimes
have electrical contact even when unscrewed.

Not sure how well the mag anodizing wears.

Cheers - Greg
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

Greg,

Doesn't your nFlex get hot after some time when running at level 8?

Freddy
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

I haven't run it for more than a couple of minutes
at that level (yet). Compared to some of the tiny
lights people make with Lux3's, this one should run
cool.

Greg
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

[ QUOTE ]
greg_in_canada said:
Good question. I've never checked if you can reliably
turn the light on and off via the tailcap.

I would be worried that after some time using this method
the anodizing would wear off and you would sometimes
have electrical contact even when unscrewed.

Not sure how well the mag anodizing wears.

Cheers - Greg

[/ QUOTE ]

Last night I had the LED off but the nFlex power on and
was unscrewing the tail cap of my light. After a few turns
the light came on. So it is possible for the tailcap to
make electrical contact (thru worn anodizing) when loosened.

Greg
 
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Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

woow

the mod looks neat man. so is it finished? what lux? 5W, 3W? hopefully not 1W man /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

um, can we ask for the "obligatory" beam shot then? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/goodjob.gif
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

It's a TX1J LuxIII.

I should update this thread with some more photos.
Since the last update I've epoxied the conduit
couplers onto the CPVC pipe. I also got an acrylite
lens from Otokoyama so the beam is very nice.

Greg
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

My nFlex light is done (except maybe for some glow
powder some day).

I bought the Maglite accessory kit to get the anti-roll
bezel. I carved out inside the front edge (to remove the
holder for the coloured lenses) so it would fit closer.
nFlex_mag_1.jpg


Here's the front with the light on to show the acrylite
lens I got from Otokoyama . (The camera is on tungsten
white balance, hence the odd LED colour). Sorry about all
the lint.
nFlex_mag_2.jpg


Here's my CR123 adapter after epoxying the conduit couplers
on.
CR123_adapter.jpg


Beamshots will follow - Greg
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

Here are the beamshots. Take at 13" from the wall. The
mag focused for best beam at that distance.

First is at brightness level 1 versus my Arc AAA-P. The
Lux III is greenish at low brightness levels but my
camera makes it much more noticable. The purple splotches
of my Arc as somewhat visible here.
level1_vs_arcp.jpg



Next, the mag at level 5 versus the Arc. To the eye the
Lux III doesn't look green any more.
level5_vs_arcp.jpg



Next, level 8 versus the Arc. All these shots are 2 seconds
at f9 and daylight balance.
level8_vs_arcp.jpg



Now, two shots at level 8: with the Acrylite lens and
with it removed. The camera was in auto (by accident)
so the acrylite shot is 1/6th at f2.8 and the non-lens one
is 1/8th at f2.8. So ignore the brightness differences.
level8_w_acrylite.jpg

level8_wo_lens.jpg


Needless to say I love the acrylite lens and the nFlex.

Greg
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

Nice mod! I'm working on one right now, although I'm using 6AA.

[ QUOTE ]
greg_in_canada said:...I bought the Maglite accessory kit to get the anti-roll
bezel...[/b][/i]

[/ QUOTE ]

Where did you get the accessory kit? I could use something like that.

I want to add an easily removable heavy diffuser so I can also use mine as a lantern. Indoors, just point it at the ceiling. The soft glow from a diffuser is very pleasing, although not quite as bright as a bare emitter. While camping, I can put it on top of a soft cooler and point it down at the picnic table. I've tried this with other lights, and it works well.
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

I bought it locally at House of Tools. $15 CDN
(I think) for the bezel, clear, red and blue lenses
and the clips for mounting it in your car.

They are available separately on the web, but by
the time you add shipping and customs fees it
was about the same price and this way I got the whole
kit.

Greg
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

Greg, can you pass on ( or a link ) to more info on the acrylite lens. I am about to start my first 2D Mag mod and was about to order a glass lens. I am more interested in a good amount of 'spill' as opposed to just 'throw' and the acrylite lens might be just what I need.
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

Otokoyama is the seller of the acrylite lenses. I
don't have a link to his thread handy.

I would say they are similar in effect to the Scotch
Satin tape. They diffuse out the artifacts without
diffusing the hot spot too much.

Greg
 
Re: Greg\'s 2D 3x123 nFlex mod

[ QUOTE ]
greg_in_canada said:
I bought it locally at House of Tools. $15 CDN
(I think) for the bezel, clear, red and blue lenses
and the clips for mounting it in your car.

They are available separately on the web, but by
the time you add shipping and customs fees it
was about the same price and this way I got the whole
kit.

Greg

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks. Found it here
 

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