GU10 DIY XR-E

[nein166]

I ordered a bunch of parts off DealExtreme to build my own lights for the house.
DIY GU10 Kits with Single and Triple Optics
Some XR-E Q5 Stars
GU10 1x3Watt 650-700ma Drivers for 110v
and 3x1Watt 300-320ma Drivers for 110v

The kits #15084 / #15085 come with a heatsink, plastic body with GU10 legs, Optic (either single or triple) and Screws.

I saw others complain that the screws don't cut it but the ones I recieved worked out great. 2 to hold the star to the heatsink. 3 to fasten the optic. 2 to attach the base to the heatsink.

Theres a problem fitting the driver made for GU10 in the plastic base, it won't fit unless some plastic is removed. Once removed there only 1 screw hole left to attach the base to the heatsink. Though it may sound flimsy when you consider the twisting force needed to put a GU10 bulb in the fixture, I haven't felt any cracking or breaks having removed them several times.

The heatsink is adequate when driven at 3watts, but I don't have a sensor to get a true temperature reading. Since the heatsink is chromed my IR therm. is no use. But shooting in at the star I read 115F.

The Triple optic has a center to center spacing of 9.5mm. 3 XR-E can sit in there spaced apart, but I have yet to template it and attempt to drive 3 at 1watt.
I don't believe the 3 Rebel Endor Star will work with that spacing, can anyone confirm???

The Single Optic is great its a smooth diffused spot, no rings. I'd say 30 degrees and very good as a spot out to 5 feet but has sharp shadowing. At 10' it will cover a 4'x4' area with smoother shadowing.

Here are the parts (just one optic per Kit)

Assembled 1x3watt Cree XR-E Q5 GU10 Spotlight

The shadowing under the dart board is a bit much for me

Now I should measure the wattage of the whole fixture.
In the pictures theres still a 50w Halogen in the paper lamp
I've taken that out of the fixture and added another 1x3watt GU10
The second focuses on the floor.
The fixture has 3 socket and for the third I'd like to keep the paper lamp.
I'd like the third to be an open flood inside the paper lamp and maybe use a Red Cree 7090 to add some warmth to the cool hallway lights. Or a 3x1watt RGB, major changes will be needed to the heatsink (or a new one entirely)

Next for a 3x1watt I have a MR11 board with 3 Warm White XR-E on order from Cutter. Lets see how Cutter's shipping compares to the 7 day order->arrival from DealExtreme.
Though I think they have the orders like the MR11 made for them by contracted manufacturer on an individual basis thus adding to the order time. It may not fit into this Kit.

 

[Hugo2x]

I would look for some old cpu heat sinks, we have an electronic discount store over in my area that sells them for $4

 

[greenLED]

Nice job, nein! I just bought a couple of Q5's, a 1*3W converter, and the single GU10 optic assembly. I'll have to report on how they work once they're assembled.

Any pics of the building process?

 

[LEDninja]

Thanks for the links.

I had some factory built lamps (both 1*3W & 3*1W). The 3*1W has a flashlight pattern - hotspot and spill.
I bought the 1 LED version (in stock) intending to saw the reflector part off the cover so I can have a flood beam. Did not want to risk wreaking a $35 bulb. A hand hacksaw and no clamp to hold the cover/ reflector did not work too good.
Tried installing the 1 LED reflector in the 3 LED bulb. Got a beam pattern that looks like the Starship Enterprise in Warp.
Finally just flipped the original 3 optic around so the reflectors stick out of the bulb. Beam pattern slightly splotchy in a perpendicular white wall hunting shot but not noticeable in actual use (on top of fridge shining down on kitchen counter and stove.

My single LED reflector from the EliteLED bulb is much wider than the one from DX. It is also textured across the full front surface. The DX one is smooth across the center.

I have a slight handicap in my hands. Handling the small screws is not fun. I am constantly afraid they will roll off the table onto the carpet where I will never see them again.

 

[nein166]

Well sorry but I didn't take any picks I do have more but kits but no plan to build more of these. I moved and no longer have the fixture these went into. But I will give what advise I can.

The star can be screwed down into the heatsink with the included screws, Add thermal grease below the star. Pay attention to which holes are for mounting to the base.

I remember it was hard to fit the driver in the white base, I think it was intended for a 12v system and 16mm board.
I dremeled away one of the screw supports.
One screw holds the plastic base to the Heatsink strongly.
I may have added epoxy in there it would help.
I put Kapton tape on the end of the driver touching the heatsink, no shorts this way.

Thanks for your interest, I'll be here to help

I had more success with a E27 Screw base from DX
I bought a MR11 3x XR-E board and optic from Cutter and used the DX 3x1W Driver. Warm White XR-E make a nice warm medium spot.

Saddly I am not done unpacking and my camera charger is still in there somewhere so I can't add pictures.

 

[greenLED]

Thanks a bunch for the extra details, Nein. Other than the space constraints, it sounds like this build is a matter of soldering the contacts, stuffing things in there and voilà!

I say that of all builds and then mess things up badly...

I'll keep you guys updated.