Handheld Tac Light Users, What Features Do You Like In Your Light?

[GreyShark]

I prefer handheld lights for use with a pistol because I feel this setup is a bit more versatile, has a few tactical advantages and my favorite pistols have no rails anyway. I'm always on the lookout for something new or better so I thought this would be a good way to share some ideas and see where it goes.

I prefer a momentary switch to a clicky for this use because I find it's a little easier to use with certain holds and there's no chance of an accidental constant on. My use of the light is intermittent only and if I do have to use it as a search light for some reason twist for constant on is ok. A clicky can be ok too as long as there's a big enough difference between the press required for momentary and the press required for constant.

Size isn't too important and neither is run time though I'm starting to really like the ~100mm battery tube format because of its versatility. I already carry and conceal a large pistol so I can easily handle a slightly larger light.

A good finish is important because the light is likely to get bumped against my handgun when shooting, not to mention other things in the course of its duty. Along those lines it has to be strong enough to take, or give, a good beating. As I said in another thread I have no problem wearing things out so I'm not interested in character marks. I am interested in durability

I'm not sure if I'm sold on grip rings, mostly because I'm not sure if I'm sold on the Surefire/Rogers technique. I generally prefer the Harries technique but not every technique works in every situation so options are nice. Actually this is another reason why I'm coming to like the 3x CR123 configuration, it's long enough that the grip ring doesn't have to interfere with your grip if you're using a different hold.

I am sold on a throw beam with 200 lumens or so. I like being able to put most of the light where I want it even at a distance and one of my practical realities is the need to be able to survey my entire property from any point therein. I also need a tight enough beam to punch through trees and brush. I'm rural, not an urban dweller. If I do need to illuminate a room I can bounce the light off the ceiling as long as its output is enough.

I've found a pocket clip to be very handy. I don't like them on knives but I don't use a flashlight the same way I use a knife so it's not a big deal. I do enjoy the benefits to ease of carry and being able to attach the light to various things to illuminate a work area if needed. Again the 3x CR123 format is generally long enough to keep the clip from interfering with the grip ring. I don't think the C3 looks as nice as the C2 but it sure is practical.

I like a finger loop style lanyard because it allows me to throw the light around to the back of my hand to reload or perform other tasks.

If you use a handheld with your pistol I'd like to hear thoughts and observations from your experience.

 

[Search]

Two options I would go for:

Surefire Z2 LED with an M60 upgrade (Personally considering for backup)

Single Mode E2DL.. I actually found one and someone willing to sell, but it would be hard to find.

From my recent experience and a little thought here are what I would prefer it had:

Single Mode
Push for momentary, click for constant
Solid, tough design
Size doesn't matter in general, but it needs to fit the users hand

One thing I prefer and I'll tell you why:

Strike bezel or HARD bezel that is top quality.

Reason being, cops are taught PPCT. If you're talking to a subject and he flips out or someone jumps on you, you need to be able to get them off of you quick so you can issue verbal commands and continue with the fight.

Obviously non LEOs don't have to give verbal commands.

We are taught a solid punch to the chest, right at the bottom of the sternum in the middle.

It will knock the breath out of them and momentarily disorientate them.

With a strike bezel or a hard bezel you can give a pretty good amount of force, and being the light is going to be in you're hand.. it's going to be what you have at the moment to do this or something similar.

There are other techniques but IMO it's a simple, quick move that will give proven results.

In all of my training I've used a light in one hand and a pistol in the other.

I've used two techniques and I don't study on the names so bare with me.

1) Holding it light a cigar so I can keep some fingers on the gun for added support.

2) Wrapping my hand around the light and pressing my palm against it if I'm to the right of a doorway or object looking into it while leaning left.. or pressing the back of my hand against the right side of the gun while on the left or a doorway or object and leaning right.

This keeps the light farther into the open so I can keep the gun and my body more behind cover and the light isn't bouncing off the object and blinding me and giving away my positions.

I'm not really set on one or the other because I find they serve their purposes.

If I'm moving I use the first technique for a solid hold on my gun to control recoil and if I'm behind an object I use the second technique.

Doors are called "fatal funnels". You would never want to be around a door frame or spend anymore time than you have to looking through it or standing in it.

You only would if you were by yourself and "cutting the pie".

I always manage a long post but I hope this helps you.

I find that using you're own personal techniques is best.

Do what is proven, but make sure it's comfortable to you. If it isn't, you're never going to be efficient with it.

Do what we do, practice when no one is looking with an empty gun. Even for civilians you can simulate situations you might be in.

To add one last thing. I like gun mounted lights for one reason:

We are taught to keep our gun and our light pointed in the same direction. Reason being, if someone is moving through a building and has their gun pointed to the right or somewhere, and has their light to the left or something, if they spot someone who might be preparing to fire, people tend to automatically shoot their gun for whatever reason. If that happens and you're gun isn't pointed at the same place, who knows who you might shoot.

Weapon lights force you to keep you're light with you're sight.

That's all I have, I have to wake up at 5:30

 

[GreyShark]

I much prefer a single mode also. I like to always know exactly what beam is going to be coming out of my light and if it's too bright for a given task I can always use the spill.

A flashlight that's durable enough to be used as an impact device is handy whenever I have to go into a victim disarmament zone. I'm good with my hands but a tool that can blind an adversary from a distance and concentrate force into a smaller area with less give is a big plus. I also see it as being useful for an emergency transition because sometimes there just isn't the time or space to reload.

Here's a link to an article that shows the names of a few techniques for reference.

http://www.surefire.com/articles-handheld_techniques

I agree that the light should generally follow the gun. Kind of like how you should generally aim with the body not the arms. One reason I prefer the handheld over the weapon mounted light is because the handheld can give your adversary a false impression of where you are. The FBI technique does this but I don't like it so much because it's too easy to misalign the light and it doesn't offer any support for the firing hand. I came up with a variant of Harries that's working well for me. Basically assume a bladed stance with your support side leading. Instead of crossing hands at the wrist like Harries place your weapon hand's wrist on top of your support hand's elbow. Hold your light out at a 90 degree angle from your center line. Your light should now be a forearm's length away from your body which will give your adversary a false aiming point. Hopefully he's a good shot. lol The only thing is that unless you have a very floody beam you will have to angle your wrist a little to aim the hotspot exactly where you want it. The major advantage to this over the FBI technique is that since both arms are supporting eachother it's a lot easier to keep light and gun locked together once aligned. Another benefit is when you're taking a corner it's fast and easy to transition to a conventional Harries technique which works well as long as you're taking a turn to the opposite side of your weapon hand. I'm sure you already know all about switching hands to work cover, etc.

I don't like Surefire/Rogers so much because my mag release is on the left side of my handgun and I'm right hand dominant. If you're careful it's no problem but there's a chance you'll drop your mag by accident.

 

[Search]

Hey like we both said, if it works for you then it's the best for you

I can see where the benefits are in that, I'll have to try it out to see how it feels.

The two ways I do it feel awkward at times, you have to put too much thought into what to do and when to do it.