HDS Mods, what did you do to yours?

[jon_slider]

What will Henry calibrate my modded Light to?

I have a 200 lumen XP-G Rotary (Cool White, not High CRI)
Assume it gets modded to a High CRI 4500k N219b and lumens drop by 30%, to 140 lumens.

If I then send the now 140 Lumen Rotary, to Henry for calibration, will it come back as a 140, 170 or a 200?

I think the answer depends on:
Whichever of those 3 lumen levels, can be achieved with no more than 1A of power.

Does that make sense?

 

[Lithium466]

Makes sense, it will be calibrated to the higher possible value within the power "envelope" admissible (I think something like 3,6W at the led and around 4,5W at the battery).
My money is it will become a 170, perhaps even stay a 200 ? Take a XP-G R5, is it really much more efficient than the led you want to use? The 219B 4000°K 9050 was able to reach 200lumens.

 

[jon_slider]

I like the way you think
And I hope youre right.

It would be very convenient, if the 4500k N219b comes close to 200 lumens after swapping out the XP-G..

 

[thermal guy]

Lol just saw this thread didn't know it was starting in 2015. Got to love them hds huh?

 

[Lithium466]

I like the way you think
And I hope youre right.

It would be very convenient, if the 4500k N219b comes close to 200 lumens after swapping out the XP-G..

Just swap your led and see..worst case you swap back...or you put a Samsung high CRI for more lumens !

 

[jon_slider]

Got to love them hds huh?

the tight hotspot, yes
the low cri and green tint, not so much.. LOL

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

One thing to keep in mind when doing an emitter swap then sending the light in for a software upgrade and recalibration... it sometimes won't work. Going from the same type of emitter, i.e. Nichia 219b to 219c is not a problem, but going from Cree or Nichia to another brand can and has presented interesting problems. We had one light come in, and I don't remember the particular emitter that it was swapped with, but after reprograming and calibration, about 10 levels on the low end were lost. This can not be "undone" at HDS nor will we take responsibility to get a modded light back into working condition if the calibration won't work on it. Henry has, in the past, put a new in stock emitter on those... for a price of course, to get the light back into functioning like it is supposed to, but it can become a costly endeavor.

 

[jon_slider]

Thanks for the information.. Always extremely helpful

I confirm that an LED swap that makes the light brighter, will sacrifice some of the lowest modes. Thanks for informing that calibration may not be able to change that reality.

I have a Storm that now has a 219B, the lowest mode is now 0.2, which means 3 modes, the 0.08, 0.12, and 0.17 are no longer available.

the Storm 219b lowest mode is noticeably brighter than my Rotary w XP-G

I will take careful measurements of the Rotary before and after the Mod. I dont expect as much change as the Storm, that went from P4 to N219b.

I was actually more concerned that the N219b would produce Lower lumens, not higher.. than the XP-G, this remains to be confirmed. I know from several swaps that going from XP-G2 to N219b, produces a drop of more than 25%. This is also confirmed by HDS setting the N219b 25% lower than XP-G2.

So yes, which LED is swapped in, creates either increase in brightness (and loses lowest modes)
or decrease in brightness, which makes the lows lower, but also the maximum lower.

Based on what I am hearing and learning, I dont think I will send the Rotary in for calibration.. even after the N219b swap, but I will share the lumens changes from the mod.

As Lithium466 pointed out, the XP-G 200 is already 25% less bright than the XP-G2 250 models, so it would seem the N219b will not be a problem.. famous words.. until the PhatLady sings

 

[John_Galt]

One thing to keep in mind when doing an emitter swap then sending the light in for a software upgrade and recalibration... it sometimes won't work. Going from the same type of emitter, i.e. Nichia 219b to 219c is not a problem, but going from Cree or Nichia to another brand can and has presented interesting problems. We had one light come in, and I don't remember the particular emitter that it was swapped with, but after reprograming and calibration, about 10 levels on the low end were lost. This can not be "undone" at HDS nor will we take responsibility to get a modded light back into working condition if the calibration won't work on it. Henry has, in the past, put a new in stock emitter on those... for a price of course, to get the light back into functioning like it is supposed to, but it can become a costly endeavor.

Was it an old edc-tactical with a dedomed XP-G led in it? I sent my circa 2010 (2011?) model back a few months ago. It had started as a custom 140N, went to Milksypit when he was still on the board, who drilled the heatsink for a 10mmdia 2mm thick board to swap in a neutral white xpe r2 he had procured. Then I swapped in succession an xp-g2 r5-3D, which gave it an excellent boost in total output. Eventually the tailcap gave up the ghost, Henry sent me a replacement when I contacted him, it came with the new (for the time) epoxy securing the clicky switch and served me for many rough years of use and abuse. I swapped a nichia 219c d320 into it, great tint, good putput, before swapping in another xp-g2 S4 5B. It started acting erratically after that, and draining primaries way too fast. You guys weren't able to save it, but I like the changes with the new ones. I managed to snag a 200 high cri, thankfully. Fantastic light and fantastic LED.

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

Was it an old edc-tactical with a dedomed XP-G led in it? I sent my circa 2010 (2011?) model back a few months ago. It had started as a custom 140N, went to Milksypit when he was still on the board, who drilled the heatsink for a 10mmdia 2mm thick board to swap in a neutral white xpe r2 he had procured. Then I swapped in succession an xp-g2 r5-3D, which gave it an excellent boost in total output. Eventually the tailcap gave up the ghost, Henry sent me a replacement when I contacted him, it came with the new (for the time) epoxy securing the clicky switch and served me for many rough years of use and abuse. I swapped a nichia 219c d320 into it, great tint, good putput, before swapping in another xp-g2 S4 5B. It started acting erratically after that, and draining primaries way too fast. You guys weren't able to save it, but I like the changes with the new ones. I managed to snag a 200 high cri, thankfully. Fantastic light and fantastic LED.

I don't what emitter was in it but the time frame is about right. It's happened a few times though where we would reprogram a modded light and the low levels get lost because the LED being what Henry describes as "leaky".