HDS Systems EDC # 16

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Maxbelg

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Just got my modded Rotary back from Wayne here. It now sports a XP-G2 High CRI which came from here on a Copper SinkPad.

All I can say is wow! Almost the same tint as my stock 120 Lumen Clicky HDS High CRI but quite a bit more throw and total output. When comparing to my 200 Rotary it throws even better and in a ceiling bounce test the output is slightly less but more than 140 lumen: I guesstimate around 160-170 Lumen. It's a clean nice mod as I've come to expect from Vinhnguyen. I apologize for the crappy cellphone pics.

I now have 6 HDS lights of which 4 are High CRI! (2 of which I modded myself with Nichia 219s, 1 stock High CRI and this one). Obviously I love High CRI but I still like my stock 200 Rotary and my 140T GDP too.

Enjoy!

4ke7.jpg

u8oo.jpg
 

tobrien

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divine

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Interesting. I was guessing based on the information I've been seeing in the "When did you order your HDS" thread.

Apparently I haven't checked up on that thread for a week.
 

Grizzman

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I don't recall reading anyone waiting for anything but a HI-CRI or 200 lumen XP-G emitter for the last year or so. It's possible that Henry had a small stash of 140 Golden Dragon lights in inventory, and one of them happen to be in the configuration that tobrien was wanting. I waited a little over a year for my 200 Clicky partly becuase Henry couldn't get the emitters. Had I chosen a different emitter, I may have received it sooner, or muuuuuuch sooner.

Grizz
 

redryder

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Just received my HDS rotary 200lm(ordered Mar 2013). I also have a HDS hcri 120 lm clicky(2012). The new rotary has slight more aggressive knurling. My hcri has a better beam. My rotary has a brighter ring around the hotspot so the center looks dimmer, also near the edges of the spill the color is slightly purplish. On my hcri, the hotspot is solid and color even through the spill. The rotary tint is not bad but then that's totally subjective.
My rotary knob moves vertically ~1 when pushed down. Is that normal? It makes pushing the button feel sloppy.
 
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Maxbelg

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............My rotary knob moves vertically ~1 when pushed down. Is that normally? It makes pushing the button feel sloppy.

Both my Rotarys don't move vertically at all when I actuate the switch: Sounds irritating and I'd probably contact Henry about that!
 

Starik1

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I find it odd y'all still have doubts, but here's a screenshot from my gmail (taken today @ 12:08 PM eastern time, October 15, 2013)

I guarantee you I bought this 140T directly from HDS's website. :)
I believed you. I was under the impression that all of the HDS lights took at least several months to ship, but I guess it's only certain kinds - high CRI and rotary according to Grizzman. Lucky me, I ordered a high CRI rotary :banghead:
 

P_A_S_1

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My rotary knob moves vertically ~1 when pushed down. Is that normally? It makes pushing the button feel sloppy.

Received mine recently and haven't noticed any vertical play. Two issues with mine I've noticed is one, the low battery indicator doesn't work, but I'm undecided wether I should return it or live with it. The second issue is one I've never noticed with the previous HDS I had, when changing batteries and reconnecting the battery compartment with the head I've noticed a small blue spark. I noticed it because I was swapping out batteries in the dark. Not sure if that's normal.
 

eff

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I believed you. I was under the impression that all of the HDS lights took at least several months to ship, but I guess it's only certain kinds - high CRI and rotary according to Grizzman. Lucky me, I ordered a high CRI rotary :banghead:

I guess that the 200 lumens, rotary and Hi-CRI versions are harder to get.
Anyone in hurry and interested in ordering directly from HDS, should probably concentrate on the 140 clicky (or maybe even on the 170 ?).
 
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RubiconSS

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I guess that the 200 lumens, rotary and Hi-CRI versions are harder to get.
Anyone in hurry and interested in ordering directly from HDS, should probably concentrate on the 140 clicky (or maybe even on the 170 ?).

Certainly don't be afraid to ask and get what you really want but, I imagine what you stated above is accurate.
 

nbp

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The second issue is one I've never noticed with the previous HDS I had, when changing batteries and reconnecting the battery compartment with the head I've noticed a small blue spark. I noticed it because I was swapping out batteries in the dark. Not sure if that's normal.

I saw a spark from the contact wire on one of my ACME Clickies the other day as well. I had never noticed it before, but there seemed to be no issues with it afterward so I assumed it was nothing to be concerned about. :shrug:
 

slumber

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I saw a spark from the contact wire on one of my ACME Clickies the other day as well. I had never noticed it before, but there seemed to be no issues with it afterward so I assumed it was nothing to be concerned about. :shrug:

My Legacy HiCri would spark and it also had a parasitic drain issue. It would drain a primary in a week of almost no use. Sent it in for repair and I haven't noticed a spark since. Not sure if the two issues were related.
 

nbp

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My Legacy HiCri would spark and it also had a parasitic drain issue. It would drain a primary in a week of almost no use. Sent it in for repair and I haven't noticed a spark since. Not sure if the two issues were related.

No I do not think they are related. The drain issue has not resurfaced in the more recent lights, and my current lights do not have it. (I had a Legacy Clicky that had it, so I am confident I would recognize it if it cropped up again.)
 

Jakarta

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Re: When did you order your HDS?

A standard 14mm silicone boot would probably work in a pinch, but it would feel mushy without modification since the internal nib is not flush with the bottom of the boot like the stock boot is; at least the one I have. Also not sure what the OD of the brim of the stock boot is since I didn't remove the retaining ring to measure it.

Mine are all flush buttons, but in the pic above, it looks like the tactical button is "filled in" to activate the same switch that the flush button does. You may be able to fill in a standard replacement button with Dow silicone cement (look for bathtub caulking section at the hardware) to get the proper feel, assuming it fits otherwise.

Thanks guys...
If all else fails (I'm still trying to get original caps from HDS through 3rd party) will resort to DIY-ing a replacement button cap...
 

Redhat703

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Re: When did you order your HDS?

I know that the clicky body will not work on the rotary head and vice versa. However, it would be nice if the head can detect the body type so it can act accordingly.
 

redryder

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I saw a spark from the contact wire on one of my ACME Clickies the other day as well. I had never noticed it before, but there seemed to be no issues with it afterward so I assumed it was nothing to be concerned about. :shrug:

Maybe static electricity.
 
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