HDS Systems EDC: Suggestions #1

[emarkd]

Another thought - to attach the clip to the bezel, without changing the distance of the reflector to the diode....

You know how people put the clip under the bezel, but it messes with the placement of the reflector?

A few days late, sorry, but we still seem to be on the same topic so I wanted to address these comments. You can already put a clip under your bezel without changing the reflector/emitter relationship. You can put a clip under your bezel without affecting the beam pattern at all. You just put it on top of the reflector, between the reflector and the bezel, instead of between the reflector and the head. I cover all that in my write-up, if you're interested -- http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...all-a-Clip-Under-the-Bezel-of-Your-HDS-Rotary

FWIW, and I don't mean to speak out of turn or put words in Henry's mouth, but I don't think Henry's issue with this clip-mounting solution is a functional one. I think he's more concerned about strength/reliability. He designed the bezel to screw down a certain amount for strength, 3 full threads or whatever it is. With the clip in place it screws down less, maybe 2.8 rotations or whatever. This technically makes the bezel connection weaker, and possibly less water resistant. But for me personally, I find the trade-off worth it. These lights are so far over-engineered (in a good way) that I'm comfortable "compromising" mine slightly for this added convenience. And like others have reported, I've been carrying like this a long time, in all sorts of situations, even underwater, without an issue.

But again, this mod can be done without affecting the reflector/emitter geometry at all. And if I'm wrong on Henry's thoughts on this I'd love to be corrected please

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

And if I'm wrong on Henry's thoughts on this I'd love to be corrected please

You are 100% correct sir!

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

I don't know how to post pictures, but with a very slightly redesigned bezel, all of the threads currently used when the bezel is screwed tight could remain. The simplest way I can describe the redesign is to add about an extra mm of threads in exchange for reducing 1 mm of exposed visible bezel.

The idea of putting the clip between reflector and bezel works and keeps the reflector/emitter relationship, but moving the bezel away from the emitter and reflector will reduce the angle of the flood portion of the beam, making it narrower.
Having said that, a slight redesign of the bezel could fix that as well, but to preserve the beam exactly as it is now while still allowing the pocket clip to fit would require less depth from the lens to the end of the bezel, and that means slightly less protection...

I feel the easiest way would be to keep all design changes limited to only a redesign of the bezel, not the entire light.

The idea to add screw holes to the bezel isn't terrible either. Then nobody would need to be "stuck" with empty screw holes in their light. They would just order a "plain" bezel or purchase their light that way.

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

Hogo- do you have an E-mail address that I could send some drawings to?

If you like my ideas, that would be great. If not, then no big deal. I would dream of working for a company like HDS, Prometheus Lights, Pioneer Carry, Go Ruck, etc.

 

[usdiver]

I tried the clip under the reflector, over the reflector... no go for me. I need watertight integrity maintained and I need strength 🤔

 

[emarkd]

The idea of putting the clip between reflector and bezel works and keeps the reflector/emitter relationship, but moving the bezel away from the emitter and reflector will reduce the angle of the flood portion of the beam, making it narrower.

I'd love to see this tested, and I see where you're coming from, but I don't think its actually happening. The bezel itself does very little reflecting, approaching zero. And you're only moving it away the width of the clip metal, which is less than 1mm. I can see how if you moved it far enough away it would obstruct the outer edge of the flood, like shining the light down a metal tube, and maybe it is doing that a minuscule amount with the clip in place, but I definitely haven't noticed that effect with my naked eye.

I doubt its even measurable, but I'm open to being proven wrong. And even if it is, the effect is so small that I personally am going to put it in the same category as that loss of a few degrees of thread length -- not important enough to me to offset the utility of the clip.

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

Without exact dimensions of the head it's impossible to say to what degree, but certainly any movement or change that increases the distance from light source to the end of the bezel will reduce flood beam angle, assuming the diameter and design of the bezel remains constant.

With exact dimensions of the head internals and the exact thickness of the pocket clip, a little trigonometry would reveal exactly how much is lost.

 

[Random Dan]

Without exact dimensions of the head it's impossible to say to what degree, but certainly any movement or change that increases the distance from light source to the end of the bezel will reduce flood beam angle, assuming the diameter and design of the bezel remains constant.

With exact dimensions of the head internals and the exact thickness of the pocket clip, a little trigonometry would reveal exactly how much is lost.

It's small enough that I couldn't even notice it in a side by side comparison.

 

[thermal guy]

"With exact dimensions of the head internals and the exact thickness of the pocket clip, a little trigonometry would reveal exactly how much is lost."

This is it!!! The time they told us in school that math could save our lives. 😂😂😂

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

This is it!!! The time they told us in school that math could save our lives. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

HAHA!!!

Plot the parabola to figure out the flight path to find out where our HDS landed... Still functioning!!!

 

[jon_slider]

Looking at my Rotary this morning and started thinking about all the people who would want a clip on the rotary.

Just a suggestion but I have always noticed there's around 7mm of travel before the first low setting changes (preset 1) and around the same amount of travel after preset 24. So could there be two slightly bigger rotary stop screws which in turn could hold a clip or curved clip for deep pocket carry.

I agree there is room for 2 stop screws.. great idea!

I dont know if fyrstormer saw your idea, or if it was a case of mutually independent brilliance ;-)

I like that clip

 

[d13avo]

I dont know if fyrstormer saw your idea, or if it was a case of mutually independent brilliance ;-)

Yeah this is exactly what I was on about and drew a diagram to explain which I cannot seem to find now. Dan spoke to Henry but it was stated as a no go but fairplay to fyrstormer for following through with it, I thought it would work because there is quite a bit of travel between the setting 1 and 24

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

Hogo- do you have an E-mail address that I could send some drawings to?

If you like my ideas, that would be great. If not, then no big deal. I would dream of working for a company like HDS, Prometheus Lights, Pioneer Carry, Go Ruck, etc.

It is on my Thor's Hammer Custom Leather page.

Did you ever know someone who had a job or position and you asked yourself "how the hell did that guy get that job/position?". That's me. Pure dumb luck... though, it isn't exactly all rainbows and hugs... I spend a good deal of time figuring out how to murder machinists, and then talk myself out of it.

 

[thermal guy]

3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead 😂😂😂

 

[Cpl S]

3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead 

Hahaha, I was thinking more like "2 men enter, 1 man leaves"

 

[thermal guy]

That works to.😄

 

[slumber]

Would you Rotary guys find a level 0 useful? Maybe with a detent? This could save wear and tear on the switch boot which is not user serviceable on the Rotary models.

Also, if a level 0 were an option, how about a KISS Rotary? No presets. Not button. Just a straight up Rotary which starts at OFF and tops out at MAX (w/burst). Perhaps fill the switch boot cavity with a metal cap or magnet milled for a trit.

 

[JKolmo]

Sounds like a great idea, just a simple rotary dial no switch. Dead simple. I would buy one.

 

[Lithium466]

Me too but with a detent or something to differentiate from on to off.

 

[peter yetman]

I think that I'd find that a little too easy to turn on my pocket unless the detent was quite firm. In which case that's another thing to wear out and need replcement - probably a more expensive repair than a rubber boot.
Good thinking though.
P