Heat issues in G2

[dkelly]

The Malkoff Devices P60 advised not to run this drop in in a plastic body G2 for more than 15 minutes due to heat. The BOG Cree Q5 Drop-In Module "Super Premium" does not list such a warning. Can anyone tell me if this is a problem with the BOG also? I would like to be able to run the flashlight until battery depletion without worry.

Thanks.

 

[Gunner12]

This(the heat issue) applies to all high power LED drop-ins in the G2 other the lower powered ones(the ones drive at less current).

The heat from the LED will build up with nowhere to go, this will shorten the LED's life, if enough heat, tint will shift blue/flicker and the LED might even die.

 

[LukeA]

This applies to all high power LED drop-ins in the G2.

The heat from the LED will build up with nowhere to go, this will shorten the LED's life, if enough heat, tint will shift blue and the LED might even die.

Crees start to flicker when they get too hot. That (the heat) dramatically shortens their lifespan.

 

[dkelly]

Thanks.

 

[lightinsky]

d

 

[lightinsky]

I have 2 G2's. One is a G2L that starts at 80 lumens and adjusts down after 4+ hours. The G2L has the upgraded aluminum bezel to help with heat dissipation to replace the nitrolen bezel.

The problem with high output drop ins in the G2 body is the heat has no where to go. I got a second G2 incan and put a DX 1447 Cree P4 900 mA in it rated at approx. 140 lumens. I put a 6P head on it with pyrex from Surefire and haven't seen any issues running it over 15 minutes like the Q2, Q5 or newer R2 which have over 200 -250 lumens that might be too much for the G2.

I was glad to get more lumens than the P61 incan bulb with a cree led drop in that won't blow out on me when needed most and over heat with too much lumens.

 

[KeyGrip]

I've been wondering, has anybody tried to suppliment their drop in's heat sinking ability by adding more material to the main body of the drop in?

 

[precisionworks]

adding more material to the main body of the drop in?

The Malkoff M60 already has a huge, brass heat spreader as part of the drop in (see photo at MalkoffDevices . com) I don't believe that even another millimeter could be added & still have it fit into the body.

6Ps are not expensive ... around $40 in the Sell section of this forum. You really should consider a 6P ... even a G2 with aluminum head will not cool as quickly, as the molded body does not allow heat conduction from lamp to hand.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Good advise for all. Heatsinking is tough with plastic and we try what we can to improve it. Like another poster I use my 6P with Pryex bezel, using it on my G2Z. Heat does conduct very quickly to the head, so that is good, but not good enough for non-stop running with high current to the LED LA's. I would use my 6P body, but don't like looks, and I like the G2Z body and tailcap.

Bill

 

[dougie]

I too have a G2ZL using a Surefire alloy bezel. I agree that this combination looks and works well. As regards to heat degrading a LED drop in I think that it is a measured risk to which drop in you use.

I personally have no concerns whatsoever in using a Surefire P60L lamp assembly continuously as the LED is able to conduct heat reasonably well from the module to the bezel. Additionally the P60L has a thermal sensor designed specifically to reduce the current to the LED if the temperature exceeds its operational parameters.

The only after market LED drop in which appears to be safe to be used in Nitrolon bezelled lights continuously are the Malkoff Low level lamp modules. Other manufacturers modules which were not specifically designed to be used in a Nitrolon lights are, I think, a measured risk that you have to assume by taking into account reports of premature failure.

I personally don't recall reading anything on CPF or any of the other flashlight forums which specifically highlights premature failures of a third part drop in?

My advice would be to use an alloy bezel on a G2/G2Z. After all Surefire must know something to have started using alloy bezels? IMHO I don't buy that moving over to using alloy bezels with the P60L's was simply an issue of prolonging the maximum run time at full output.

Doug

 

[asdalton]

I've been wondering, has anybody tried to suppliment their drop in's heat sinking ability by adding more material to the main body of the drop in?

This would help with reducing the transient rise in temperature from having the light on for only a couple of minutes at a time. But it wouldn't affect the ability of the light to dissipate heat in extended use. The term "heatsink" is somewhat misleading, since nothing can absorb heat indefinitely without having to dump the heat somewhere else.

The real benefit of a metal-bodied light is heat transfer to the outside.

 

[Wattnot]

I tell ya what . . . . when I first bought the Nitrolons (my first SF lights) I thought they were great. It's funny matching that tiny thing up against any stock Mag . . . it's a small fraction of the size and yet emits several times the light. I saw anything below the Nitrolons as a waste of materials.

Well now that I've been hanging around here, and I have a growing collection of really nice lights, I'm starting to look at my Nitrolons almost in the same manner as I did the Mags !!

Knowing what I know now, I probably would not have bought them. I was going to put some drop-ins in them but with the heat issues, it's not worth the hassle. I've considered the M60L but for the $ame as an M60, I'd rather have all the lumens! It makes a lot more sense to me to buy a 6P for only a few bucks more (or a 6P clone for less) and then enjoy the massive power of the full M60 (of course the L model would have 2x the runtime). Then I can use the module from that as a backup for the Nitrolon. However, I'll never need it because it won't get USED!

 

[DM51]

Take a look at this thread if you have not already seen it - Wicho's comparisons of Malkoff units.