Hello, im looking into buying a 1(2 at the most) AA LED flashlight. I was looking into the Fenix L1D (now the LD10), the Nitecore Smart PD D10, and possibly an EagleTac P10A. Any comments on the above flashlights or any new suggestions? Oh, and im on a budget. 60 dollars (give or take). Thanks. P.S if you own one of these flashlights and have beam pictures, they would be much appreciated!
Help In Choosing 1AA LED Flashlight
- Thread starter TylerP
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Egsise
Banned
victor01
Newly Enlightened
AbleArcher
Newly Enlightened
There's also a good thread on AA lights here, no beamshots though:-
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=229598
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=229598
f22shift
Flashlight Enthusiast
i've owned a ld10, p10a, and a d10.
i hated the beam of the the ld10 and got the impression their qc has slipped. it still has their legedary runtimes and lots of modes.
the p10a was sort of the opposite. impeccable quality and flawless beamshot. the runtime was even efficient. i wanted the simplicity, sort of the l1t, but their modes didn't seem far apart from the eye. and then you miss a low mode. so by itself not too versatile as an only carry. also eagletac is pretty notorious for pushing the limits on brightness. for example on high you need a good condition battery to supply the power(2a tailcap reading). if not the low and high look almost the same. sometimes pushing the limit isn't entirely practical.
d10 was great with the super low and the infinite variable output. it's also hard to pick something in between and plus you had no idea the runtime you'll have because there wasn't separate distinctive outputs. very small in size. the hard pushbutton style might not be fun for all(sore thumbs).
i dont have any of them anymore. i probably miss the p10a the most because i liked the perceived quality of it. it's just a no go with no low.
i would consider the quark too. it has the square threads of the eagletac and the center led of an eagletac but with the modes of a fenix and a super low of a d10 and the knurling of the d10. efficiency is within the efficient range compared to others.
cons is that there is no tailcap locket and it might "pre-flash" very fast in a low mode. the reliability is up in the air too since it's a new series but at least comes with a 10yr warranty.
i hated the beam of the the ld10 and got the impression their qc has slipped. it still has their legedary runtimes and lots of modes.
the p10a was sort of the opposite. impeccable quality and flawless beamshot. the runtime was even efficient. i wanted the simplicity, sort of the l1t, but their modes didn't seem far apart from the eye. and then you miss a low mode. so by itself not too versatile as an only carry. also eagletac is pretty notorious for pushing the limits on brightness. for example on high you need a good condition battery to supply the power(2a tailcap reading). if not the low and high look almost the same. sometimes pushing the limit isn't entirely practical.
d10 was great with the super low and the infinite variable output. it's also hard to pick something in between and plus you had no idea the runtime you'll have because there wasn't separate distinctive outputs. very small in size. the hard pushbutton style might not be fun for all(sore thumbs).
i dont have any of them anymore. i probably miss the p10a the most because i liked the perceived quality of it. it's just a no go with no low.
i would consider the quark too. it has the square threads of the eagletac and the center led of an eagletac but with the modes of a fenix and a super low of a d10 and the knurling of the d10. efficiency is within the efficient range compared to others.
cons is that there is no tailcap locket and it might "pre-flash" very fast in a low mode. the reliability is up in the air too since it's a new series but at least comes with a 10yr warranty.
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I only have the D10 of the lights you mentioned and I can tell you it is a neat light that is small and has plenty of power and is well made, especially for a light under $100. Sorry, no camera but it is a neat light and running on Lith-ion 14500's it is awesome. A lot of bang for the buck imo!!
Yucca Patrol
Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 954
I have a Fenix L1D, Nitecore D10, and a DX Akoray k-106.
Believe it or not, the $20 Akoray is as good as the other two for 1/3-1/2 the price. Fully programmable too and can run on 14500 lithium rechargeables.
Buy this light, get two or three batteries and a charger, and you are still under budget.
On 14500 batteries, it performs right along with D10 except that it has a smaller, brighter hotspot so it throws a bit more.
The clip on it looks a bit weak, but it appears to be made of quality spring steel, so it might be stronger than it looks.
Honestly, if it had a more high-end brand stamped on it, it would easily be a $50 + light.
Believe it or not, the $20 Akoray is as good as the other two for 1/3-1/2 the price. Fully programmable too and can run on 14500 lithium rechargeables.
Buy this light, get two or three batteries and a charger, and you are still under budget.
On 14500 batteries, it performs right along with D10 except that it has a smaller, brighter hotspot so it throws a bit more.
The clip on it looks a bit weak, but it appears to be made of quality spring steel, so it might be stronger than it looks.
Honestly, if it had a more high-end brand stamped on it, it would easily be a $50 + light.
If only we have a nickel everytime someone asked for the best AA. 
My preferred choice: D10. And my standard cut-and-paste info again...
Boiling Test
Runover Test
Underwater Test
Drop Test
Fishing Test haha, it's cruelty to flashaholic fishes.
And review stated:
"This review is a result of more than 150 days of EDC carry. During this period, the flashlights were carried through 2 continents and 6 different locations. Some of the locations were environmental extremes. The flashlights went through temperatures as high as 50° Celsius in the dry desert environment to as low as 6° Celsius winter; with relative humidity of tropical environment in excess of 90% RH to as low as 10% RH in the desert. The flashlights were subjected to sand storms, rain & thunderstorms. NiteCore Smart PD D10 was one of the flashlight that faced all environmental extremes with relative ease. For those, who cant wait to go through full review, rest assured that the Smart PD Design has proven itself to be very reliable if used carefully. NiteCore Smart PD D10 falls in one of the best in its class category."
My preferred choice: D10. And my standard cut-and-paste info again...
Boiling Test
Runover Test
Underwater Test
Drop Test
Fishing Test haha, it's cruelty to flashaholic fishes.
And review stated:
"This review is a result of more than 150 days of EDC carry. During this period, the flashlights were carried through 2 continents and 6 different locations. Some of the locations were environmental extremes. The flashlights went through temperatures as high as 50° Celsius in the dry desert environment to as low as 6° Celsius winter; with relative humidity of tropical environment in excess of 90% RH to as low as 10% RH in the desert. The flashlights were subjected to sand storms, rain & thunderstorms. NiteCore Smart PD D10 was one of the flashlight that faced all environmental extremes with relative ease. For those, who cant wait to go through full review, rest assured that the Smart PD Design has proven itself to be very reliable if used carefully. NiteCore Smart PD D10 falls in one of the best in its class category."
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Take a look at the ZebraLight H501.
Since getting it I have picked up anything else for around the house/car/yard/shed etc. Can use it as a headlight, handheld, standing up, or tied to something.
I hung it under the sink to fix some plumbing, then cut the grass as it got dark because I wanted to get the clippings out to the garbage before it got picked up in the morning.
For blinding someone or scoping out the creatures in the yard at night you might still want a thrower, probably more than a single AA.
Since getting it I have picked up anything else for around the house/car/yard/shed etc. Can use it as a headlight, handheld, standing up, or tied to something.
I hung it under the sink to fix some plumbing, then cut the grass as it got dark because I wanted to get the clippings out to the garbage before it got picked up in the morning.
For blinding someone or scoping out the creatures in the yard at night you might still want a thrower, probably more than a single AA.
etc
Flashlight Enthusiast
Don't discount Gerber Infinity Ultra. It's dim but very simple and runs forever.
That assumes you have a brigher lite available, also.
That assumes you have a brigher lite available, also.
Fenix LD10 VS Nitecore D10. Opinions?
Hey guys, im on the search for a good beamed 1 X AA flashlight. Im stuck between the Fenix LD10 (found for about 54 dollars) or the Nitecore D10 (found for about 59.95). I've already looked at all the beamshots. I will be using some Energizer Rechargables (2000 mAh). I was wondering which one seems better to YOU. Im stuck, so i need second opinions. I already have the Fenix LD20, but DONT want to buy just the LD10 body. I would like a second light, not two in one. Im all ears.
Hey guys, im on the search for a good beamed 1 X AA flashlight. Im stuck between the Fenix LD10 (found for about 54 dollars) or the Nitecore D10 (found for about 59.95). I've already looked at all the beamshots. I will be using some Energizer Rechargables (2000 mAh). I was wondering which one seems better to YOU. Im stuck, so i need second opinions. I already have the Fenix LD20, but DONT want to buy just the LD10 body. I would like a second light, not two in one. Im all ears.
MerkurMan
Newly Enlightened
Re: Fenix LD10 VS Nitecore D10. Opinions?
I prefer my D10 R2 to my LD20/L1D lego head/tail. I love the more-neutral (I won't say "warmer" at the behest of warm-tint lovers
) tint of the R2, and the much larger spot of the D10. Also, it depends on your own preference, but the silent PD with no annoying strobe modes and no head-twisting is just easier and quicker for me. The Nitecore is smaller, has an available clip, and can run reliably on 14500.
Not dissing the Fenix, though. It's a solid light, and I like it a lot, but I carry my Nitecore every day. The Fenix is more of a shelf queen.
I prefer my D10 R2 to my LD20/L1D lego head/tail. I love the more-neutral (I won't say "warmer" at the behest of warm-tint lovers
) tint of the R2, and the much larger spot of the D10. Also, it depends on your own preference, but the silent PD with no annoying strobe modes and no head-twisting is just easier and quicker for me. The Nitecore is smaller, has an available clip, and can run reliably on 14500.Not dissing the Fenix, though. It's a solid light, and I like it a lot, but I carry my Nitecore every day. The Fenix is more of a shelf queen.
vali
Enlightened
Re: Fenix LD10 VS Nitecore D10. Opinions?
If you want a flawless beam I suggest to get a flashlight with XP-E instead XR-E. Right now in 1xAA the best will be, probably, the Quark.
If you want a flawless beam I suggest to get a flashlight with XP-E instead XR-E. Right now in 1xAA the best will be, probably, the Quark.
Re: Fenix LD10 VS Nitecore D10. Opinions?
How does the brightness and beam (defects?) seem to you between the two?My fenix LD20 has a sickel shaped area unlit(not uncommon with cree lit flashlights, so im told),which is hard to see but is a small annoyance. Is their any in the d10 or the L1D? Thanks a lot.
How does the brightness and beam (defects?) seem to you between the two?My fenix LD20 has a sickel shaped area unlit(not uncommon with cree lit flashlights, so im told),which is hard to see but is a small annoyance. Is their any in the d10 or the L1D? Thanks a lot.
Re: Fenix LD10 VS Nitecore D10. Opinions?
The regular D-10 uses a Q5 LED, and the R2 uses well an R2. The board fried in the first one, it was literally smoking when I took the battery out. The second one would get stuck on in a really low mode, like .1 lumens or something. The only way you could turn it off was to tap it on a table or in your hand.
The regular D-10 uses a Q5 LED, and the R2 uses well an R2. The board fried in the first one, it was literally smoking when I took the battery out. The second one would get stuck on in a really low mode, like .1 lumens or something. The only way you could turn it off was to tap it on a table or in your hand.
