Help Please. TrustFire T1

[gav6280]

Is this Drop-in Module at: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6090 the same as the unit that is in the TrustFire T1?

Also avalible at: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10659

 

[Lighthouse one]

Not the same...the T1 has a Q 5 led. The 6090 uses a P 4 cree.

 

[gav6280]

So which one is brighter?

P.s I just ordered the T1.

 

[Lighthouse one]

Take you're time more in the future...there was a review on the T1...you can often find them if you look longer. The T1 is much brighter, but that isn't always the most important question. THe quality and construction often are more important. Some cheap hi power lights aren't well constructed, and may fail more quickly. It is sometimes better to wait, and spend a bit more for a quality light...I have bought a lot of cheap ones, I know! I do'nt know how good the T1 will be...It may be great, I'm not saying you made a poor choice, but beware that there is a reason why some lights cost more...as all quality things do. Better lights may also have better efficiency, and regulation. The driver controls this. My strongest light is an Ultrafire 500....not an LED. I use my weakest lights the most though...at work and home.
Welcome to CPF...keep reading...take your time.

 

[gav6280]

Sorry i thought i had.... This forum is massive.

Have you seen the UltraFire 3x CREE WC Q5 LED CR123 Flashlight WF-700L that are in ebay?

Whats your thoughts on them?

 

[bspofford]

I have a lot of these lights, and the most recent shipment has a name change. The light is now called a TrustFire Q5. I suggest that you try the one-mode Q5 that comes with it first. DX lists it as an 18650 (4.2V) light, but it is brighter with 2X16340 (8.4V). There are a lot of other modules that you might consider including the one-mode R2 and 0-100% "3-mode" Q5, but try the module that it comes with first.

If you are interested in simple upgrades, you could also consider a 7/8" GITD lens o-ring (Got "Glo-Rings?" at bottom of this page) and 28mm AR glass (KD). I recommend shortening the center post on the GITD silicone switch cover by about 2mm using a razor blade. It is too long as it is shipped.

 

[gav6280]

Ok I am getting my head around it all now, but im still a newbie. But im up for having a go.

I would like conformation from someone who knows there stuff that the following list of parts will all work together. It would only take a minute to check this for me, as i think i have it right but im not totally sure....

The plan is to build a light with 4 led's running of 4 seprate drivers and 1 battery. With the drivers all wired in paralel to the battery. All hosed in a custom made underwater casing.

From DealExtreme:
sku 01885 - 1050mA Regulated Circuit Board x 10
SKU 01915 - 48.16mm 4-LED Reflector for Cree Emitters
SKU 02394 - Cree XR-E Q5 Emitter on Premium Star (228LM at 1A)

And from batteryspace.com:
Polymer Li-Ion Module: 3.7 V 8000mAh - Prewired with PCB (PL8059156)
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3903


And from : www.chilledpc.co.uk
Enzotech Forged Copper Northbridge heatsink
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=487
I rekon that by very slightly overdriving the Led's and arrangimg them in a set of four i should be looking at around 1000 Lumen right?

Do you think it would be good to silver spray paint the back side of the reflector?

It should be noted that this is for scuba diving. I only need 1 mode on or off....

Thanks in advance for your time... Gavin.