Help the noob with Simple led/module replacement. Cree or SSC?

[Newuser01]

Okay, folks!
How are everyone!

I'm a newbie as far as led lights moding. (the only thing I've done is push in the (warwand LED) into minimag and it worked!!

Could you guys look at the circuit and the led slug/heatsink and tell me what is the best ways to go about getting more lumens out of this? Also I remember seeing someone mention there is a resistor in the tailcap/switch. I need to figure out if that is true and how can I get rid of that if it will help drive the new emiter!!

I'm guessing that this thing has some sort of boost circuit in it. And considering the optic, which upgrade will be better? I would think SSC, ? Since it is better suited to upgrade lux (same radiation pattern?) as LUX!!

Thanks in advance for all the good ideas to come.

Regards.
PS. I have a cheap solder iron (from Ratshak , about $5 i think I paid for). Do you think I can use that?

I've had this light for a bit now, it is pretty good but dim in the age of CREE.....
According to some of the posts here, it has just a tad less output than L1T.
Here is some pictures for you viewing pleasures. Easy dis-assemble without any special tools. Small screw driver (for my eye glass repair kits) help unscrew the retainer and the slug out of the head. Re-assembly is also painless and its still works.

Enjoy.
PS. Thinking about putting a cree in here but thnking about the beam with the collimated lens.

 

[Newuser01]

Re: Simple module replacement. Cree or SSC? Help with noob, Circuit info ?

Also I remember seeing someone mention there is a resistor in the tailcap/switch. I need to figure out if that is true and how can I get rid of that if it will help drive the new emiter!!

I just did the measurement on the switch and there is no resistance! DMM set on OHM, connected the test leads to COM and OHM, measured 00.00.
Measured at the tail cap, 0.57 A with DMM set to 10 ADC, with 2000 Mah Lenmar NImh cell (1.26V).
Measured at the tail cap, 0.99 A with DMM set to 10 ADC, with 1.5V Alk cell (1.57V).
Measured at the tail cap, 1.10 A with DMM set to 10 ADC, with 1.5V energizer E2 cell (1.58V), and dropping.

<edit> reference review: here.
<edit> reference review:By CPFr: same torch, different head, so this has different beam!

 

[Newuser01]

Am I in the wrong area of the forum?

Why not one suggestion or any help offers?

I'll check back tomorrow.

Regards.

 

[bombelman]

Right forum !

Very detailed !
I did not notice till now.

Here is my first choice:

You can swap the emitter with SSC.
(Don't think Cree will fit if you plan to use the same brass sink)
You would need AA Thermal Epoxy to bond emitter and insulate slug.
Next you could swap the optic for a Seou-Reflector from the Shoppe.

Given the drive-current will be the same, you'll have 2x~3x mroe brightness from
the led-upgrade alone...

IF you want to go futher, you can use another driver, but not sure it will power from a 1xAA

Cheers man !

 

[doc_felixander]

Can you peel the sticker off the IC on the driver board and tell us what you see?

 

[yellow]

Notice You have to somehow isulate the emitter from that brass heatsink.
The slug of the led is electrically positive, the body is negative --> You would short something out

(just learned this these days, never heared before, that the SSC is built that way)

 

[Newuser01]

Thank you , bombelman and yellow for the good suggestions. I will be looking into Seou-Reflector from the Shoppe and will insulate the emitter from that brass heatsink with AA expoxy.

LED is mounted on the brass headsink, 1 leg is soldered to the brass-heatsink and the other leg is connected to the black wire that goes to the board. So insulating may not be necessary if the base of LED does not have +V connection there? (not sure about SSC if the base of the LED has connections or not, will have to check that before starting the surgery.)


doc_felixander !

I peeled off the sticker and I'm afraid its not much help. I've attached the closeup (better!) picture of it front of the board and see what you can see?
But from measuring at the tail cap and results may/may not indicate this may be simple step up circuit and am unsure if the circuit is designed to handle high current (4.2V li-on cell for example!).

 

[vinsanity286]

The ssc has a positive base so it will have to be isolated. I had a dumb idea that I was waiting to try out but didnt have a light to do it with, you could rewire the light so that the body is now positive instead of negative. Then you would not have to worry about isolating the led. You just have to make sure that the battery case is in good condition and does not short out to the body.
Can you still get this light in stores? I really like it, especially the momentary clicky. I have the baby brother to this light, the mini tac, powered by 4 ag13 button cells. It is the same exact body just smaller. I think he would like to be reunited with his big bro:thumbsup:

 

[Newuser01]

Hello, vinsanity286!
Insulating the base of led is better idea, (now the led +V is connected to the driver with thin black wire (see pic), led -V is conncected to the brass base which inturns connect thru body and back to -V of the battery. I you change that, you would have to load battery in backward and it would work. But it will be odd and may blow loading the battery incorrectly!

Yes these lights are still avail, for 30 bucks from sears.com (nice price) 40 bucks from Fry's.

If this light works with SSC without anyother modification (ie reflector/lens) it would be a good cheap mod. 30 light + 10 SSC led + 10 mins time = $40 light that may rival most AA bodied cree lights. And it will be simple tactical clicky nicely build lite.....

Now on to ordering the SSC LED, wait!!! where did my Monies go?????

Anyone want to donate their unused SSC ?